Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
You need to ask here for instructions and ID for what's there. I'm not a Pine person, but there are lots here.
Mapple any chance to fix?
- Thread starter maroun.c
- Start date
maroun.c
Omono
Fast forward 1 year and buds just started opening.
Finally went and chopped the trunk to hopefully get better taper.
@Forsoothe! Had suggested in a different thread to chop as follows
Due to the angle to the now leader branch and wayning to save to other branches on trunk I deviated a bit to this
Now wondering if I stick with current front
Or switch to suggested front
Also is it worth trying to save it upper chopped part ?
If yes keep in water to root or plant in soil ? Rooting hormone ?
Thanks
Finally went and chopped the trunk to hopefully get better taper.
@Forsoothe! Had suggested in a different thread to chop as follows
Due to the angle to the now leader branch and wayning to save to other branches on trunk I deviated a bit to this
Now wondering if I stick with current front
Or switch to suggested front
Also is it worth trying to save it upper chopped part ?
If yes keep in water to root or plant in soil ? Rooting hormone ?
Thanks
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
You need to wire the new branches/twigs early in the process for a few weeks or a month to give them direction without wire marks. You can leave wire on all winter and remove it in spring when the buds start to swell, or 3 to 6 weeks when actively growing. It doesn't have to be for the whole length if you expect to cut most off, just wire the part that you will leave on. Make a crude drawing of what you want to grow in what direction. You don't know if branches will emerge growing in that way before they do, but you can anticipate what you need to do with those that do grow. That is an important concept that you will use forever. You cut back to buds facing the direction you want growth, and maybe it will and maybe it won't grow that way, but whatever comes out, wherever it comes out, you make grow in the best direction and manner you can because you already have a plan and that crude blueprint to follow. Do it every time, or every year and sooner or later you will be able to do it in your brain without the paper. But it will always be a tool available to work out several possible designs and dismiss those that don't look right. The more time you spend quietly staring at the tree, turning it on a turntable and considering your options here and what that looks like from the other side, and what's going to follow that step, the better your design will be.
The old carpenter's rule: "Measure twice, cut once" is the father of our draw it many times and just tear up paper instead of trees when designing bonsai. Don't waste wood.
The old carpenter's rule: "Measure twice, cut once" is the father of our draw it many times and just tear up paper instead of trees when designing bonsai. Don't waste wood.
maroun.c
Omono
Thanks for the input. Will check some finished maples for inspirstion and draft a plan and do as you say.
At this stage do I start cutting long branches or ones in non desired locations or leave them a till next year for tree to recover from trunk cut ?
Thanks
At this stage do I start cutting long branches or ones in non desired locations or leave them a till next year for tree to recover from trunk cut ?
Thanks
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Just keep tip pruning to learn the tree's responses to the ramification process. Execute your plan for major architectural changes when all the leaves get crispy this fall. You can cut them off at the base of the leaves, wire them, and cut them back (in that order) and leave the wire on until the buds swell next spring. Step & repeat.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Regardless of everything else, only one major insult per 12 months. Trees recover, seemingly with ease sometimes, and that leads us to believe that we're smart and in charge and everything is under control so we can push the envelope a little. Don't you believe it.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Wonderful cut back. Was going to suggest this place as cut off point. Good survival.
maroun.c
Omono
50 days post chop, tree growing vigorously, do I prune or leave the growth so tree recovers energy post trunk chop ?
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
IMHO, it is a question of do you want that chop scar to be grown over? If yes, let it everything above it grow. And/or, do you want the leader above to be thicker? If yes, let it grow.
Then come fall you can cut it back as it needed for putting it away for winter. Then next spring you can cut back to a pair of buds, once twice, maybe three times, to get back to the internode you want to keep. Then you ask yourself the same questions.
If you want to produce ramification, cut back to the leaf/visible-bud pair closest to the trunk (from which you want to have two branches from the one. Then let it grow until it seems to quit extending (around May and August), cut back and repeat.
The trunk below the chop will not thicken much until the leader above the chop is nearly as thick. The same is true for branches = let them grow until they are as thick as you want, the cut back.
You're doing great!
Keep having fun.
Then come fall you can cut it back as it needed for putting it away for winter. Then next spring you can cut back to a pair of buds, once twice, maybe three times, to get back to the internode you want to keep. Then you ask yourself the same questions.
If you want to produce ramification, cut back to the leaf/visible-bud pair closest to the trunk (from which you want to have two branches from the one. Then let it grow until it seems to quit extending (around May and August), cut back and repeat.
The trunk below the chop will not thicken much until the leader above the chop is nearly as thick. The same is true for branches = let them grow until they are as thick as you want, the cut back.
You're doing great!
Keep having fun.
VAFisher
Masterpiece
What Osoyoung said. The only thing I might add is that, if it was mine, I would get in there with a pair of knob cutters and carve away the area I circled in red. It looks a little awkward to me. Otherwise, it's looking really good.
maroun.c
Omono
Great Post thanks for all the info
maroun.c
Omono
Thanks, this is the chop I made couple months back. Actually tree will turn a bit so the upwards trunk should hide the chop. But yes agree on that it needs to heal. Its only couple months cut covered with past so should i aready take paste off and carve to promote healing ?
maroun.c
Omono
Branches were getting way too long and unfortunately not getting any new branches from trunk so decided to prune heavy hoping this will trigger new branches to emerge from trunk. At this stage got 3 branches forming the tree.
Wondering between this front which hides the chop a bit better
And this one which gives a bit more movement to the trunk
Wondering between this front which hides the chop a bit better
And this one which gives a bit more movement to the trunk
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Is trunk as big as desired? If not would suggest bigger growing box. Eventually will need to carve back stub of main trunk to base of newer apical trunk as VAFisher suggests.
maroun.c
Omono
Believe if I get few lower branches to work with i can the keep top lower and for the height it'll be a good trunk thickness. If not then I'll have to develop a bit higher canopy and a little thicker trunk might be a good thing.
Yes need to carvevrgat out but was waiting till I have a bit more skills in carving. Might start with a rough carve with root cutters and clean it up later. Do I need to seal the trunk post carving ?
Thanks
Yes need to carvevrgat out but was waiting till I have a bit more skills in carving. Might start with a rough carve with root cutters and clean it up later. Do I need to seal the trunk post carving ?
Thanks
maroun.c
Omono
So tree has been repotted out of nursery soil in mar 2020.
Trunk chopped in apr 2021.
Plan was to cut branches I didn't need or ones that were thick enough around fall when leaves got crisp. I was on travel and missed it so were nearly mid winter and have the following steps nd need to make but now wondering what to do when.
- repot to new front and nicer pot
- cut few branches i clearly don't need or a few ones that are too straight.
Wire or directionally prune few branches.
Appreciate advise on what to do first. Were having a cold winter by our standard with temp dropping to 2-3 degree Celsius manu times this winter so far but believe it will start warming up a bit end of this month.
Heres how tree looks a this stage.
New front ill be changing tree to. Do I make the change now or wait till next year to avoid slowing down thickening and new branches formation that I still need
Internode length do I cut down a bit on fertilizing or do I keep fertilizing to speed up new branches and thickening then worry about internode length in later stages.
Thanks
Trunk chopped in apr 2021.
Plan was to cut branches I didn't need or ones that were thick enough around fall when leaves got crisp. I was on travel and missed it so were nearly mid winter and have the following steps nd need to make but now wondering what to do when.
- repot to new front and nicer pot
- cut few branches i clearly don't need or a few ones that are too straight.
Wire or directionally prune few branches.
Appreciate advise on what to do first. Were having a cold winter by our standard with temp dropping to 2-3 degree Celsius manu times this winter so far but believe it will start warming up a bit end of this month.
Heres how tree looks a this stage.
New front ill be changing tree to. Do I make the change now or wait till next year to avoid slowing down thickening and new branches formation that I still need
Internode length do I cut down a bit on fertilizing or do I keep fertilizing to speed up new branches and thickening then worry about internode length in later stages.
Thanks
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Tridents are usually strong and quick growing so I can repot and still do pruning and wiring later in the same year, often at the same time as repotting. Just don't try wiring ad bending soon after repotting because wobbling the tree in the soil may break off brittle new roots emerging after the root prune.
I sometimes cut off redundant branches BUT sometimes redundant branches can be retained to assist with healing scars or thickening the trunk below that point. You will need to make decisions on an individual basis.
Internode length may not be so important because much of that new growth is likely to be removed at some stage. Pruning allows us to grow some bits larger to help heal and develop the sections below. Pruning allows us to make bends in trunks that are much more natural than wired bends. Pruning adds much needed taper in branches and trunks.
At some stage you will indeed need to reduce fertiliser and growth to check internode length but I don't think it is that time for this tree just yet.
I sometimes cut off redundant branches BUT sometimes redundant branches can be retained to assist with healing scars or thickening the trunk below that point. You will need to make decisions on an individual basis.
Internode length may not be so important because much of that new growth is likely to be removed at some stage. Pruning allows us to grow some bits larger to help heal and develop the sections below. Pruning allows us to make bends in trunks that are much more natural than wired bends. Pruning adds much needed taper in branches and trunks.
At some stage you will indeed need to reduce fertiliser and growth to check internode length but I don't think it is that time for this tree just yet.
maroun.c
Omono
Thanks for your reply, so guess I will:
Cut off not needed branches late winter to avoid bleeding in spring
Wire needed branches at same time before repoting.
Will repot in early spring, minimal root work needed so guess it will be fine.
Should I wait till after first flush to harden to fertilize or just give it two weeks after repot and then fertilize ?
Thanks
Cut off not needed branches late winter to avoid bleeding in spring
Wire needed branches at same time before repoting.
Will repot in early spring, minimal root work needed so guess it will be fine.
Should I wait till after first flush to harden to fertilize or just give it two weeks after repot and then fertilize ?
Thanks
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
You can also choose to cut unwanted branches at repotting. Cutting a few roots seems to stop bleeding instantly so its safe to prune and repot, even in spring.
Don't worry too much if the branches bleed a little immediately after pruning. Almost always stops after a day or 2.
I fertilize as son as I see new growth. Growth requires nutrients so fertilise when there's growth. You also mentioned minimal root pruning for this repot so no real need to with hold fert anyway.
Don't worry too much if the branches bleed a little immediately after pruning. Almost always stops after a day or 2.
I fertilize as son as I see new growth. Growth requires nutrients so fertilise when there's growth. You also mentioned minimal root pruning for this repot so no real need to with hold fert anyway.
maroun.c
Omono
Perfect, thanks for your help
