Don't forget - this is a Mediterranean species. Make sure you don't over-water. Treat it like an olive. They like it hot... they like it dry. Not bone dry... but stay away from loamy soil and wet conditions.
So in this case once the tree goes into a pot, a 1:1 akadama - pumice will be ok if I am watering on an automated system and can't be there to check on the tree? I have never worked with a Mediterranean species, so this will be a completely new experience. Right now I am watering everything 3 times a day, but will soon move to twice with the temps going down. Almost everything except the trees in pots are on Monto Clay/Bonsai Block from Bonsai Jack, the 2 potted trees are in 100% akadama.
I plan on moving this one to a shallow but slightly large root pouch to further develop the nebari (I've seen great results so far, so I'm definitely going to try it) and was planning on using the same Monto Clay/Bonsai Block, but if the tree needs to be on the drier side I think probably 1:1:1 or 1:1:2 adding pumice at the end.
I will move it out of the shade as soon as I see those bright green shoots get some color.
Several learnings from working with these trees for about 15 years:
In the right season, they will suffer incredible indignities, and will bud back profusely. Just make sure you do your work in the late spring/early summer. I have completely defoliated these trees twice in a summer, and they didn't care. Just don't do the heavy work in the late Fall - early Spring. Even though they are evergreen they will be dormant and will not respond to your work for months.
Ok, no work late winter / early spring, wait till after post flush late spring and I guess till the summer solstice? Mirai worked on their cork on late summer, would that be the latest you would recommend? They did it in August in OR, I guess September as the latest here in TX?
When you defoliate this tree, do you pull leaves as in a maple, or cut the petiole off as on a ficus?
They are the most apically dominant species I have ever worked with. If you want to keep your lower foliage you have to beat on the top of the tree constantly.
I guess this would be a great candidate to do Walter Pall's hedge pruning on the upper canopy, selecting branches afterwards?
Do not underestimate the ability for these trees to cork up. I know that is the name, but usually in bonsai you plan your design based on the hope that the tree might get thicker. With these trees you need to design for thickness... and hope the tree stays thinner. Your fine upper trunk will suddenly get too thick and destroy your taper, leaving you with a chunky apex. Secondary branches will cork up and get too thick so that you need to remove them. Keep this in mind...
This statement threw a wrench at my proposed design. I knew they cork fast from Brent's website, but I guess I didn't picture it in my mind. I was planning on doing a twin trunk, but if they cork up that fast, that means that the little negative space that I have now will be gone in no time once I move it to a pouch. Maybe start wedging them apart to increase the space in time.
Otherwise have a great time. I love this species! And FWIW they lived through our last cold winter here in NC without an issue... as did all my olives.
Where they outside all the time? Our winter is mild, but the last 3 years we had a snow/ice storm early-mid February, I lost 3 BC's that were very hardy here, so I definitely don't want to lose this one.
@Housguy how do you water these trees at your location? Drip system, or by hand? I am using Primerus Spot Spitters, most of my trees I have with a Green (13.2 GPH) or Black (17.4 GPH) running 5 minutes 3 times a day. Since Bnut mentioned that they like to be on the dry side I moved down to a Light Green (7.2 GPH) at the same rate. I think with your soil mix I may have to set a completely separate zone for this tree and water it maybe only once, until I move it into my mix, since it drains faster and holds less water.
I am also trying to "engineer" a system using a 1/4" soaker attached to Primerus new Pot Dripper Stakes. Instead of using their drip line I plan on attaching a dripper valve on the supply side with the soaker zip tied in a ring, that way I can control the amount of water it feeds. I think this would be the "ultimate" system for tees in pots, as I can get water distributed evenly, vs the Spitter where it would be concentrated where the water hits the soil.
A few Questions
Repotting - Can this species take bare rooting? And if so, when would it be ideal? Given that they don't like to be worked early spring?
Wiring - When do you guys do this work? I'm guessing late summer, or at the same time you'll do pruning late spring - summer?
Pot - Since this tree is at a stage that I think I can start refining in 2 years once I transition from organic soil to inorganic, what kind of pot would be best? I guess the shape depends on the silhouette and movement, but as far as color? glazed - unglazed? I have a few rounds that would work with this tree size, and maybe one or two ovals. No rectangles this big at all, so I would like to start shopping or possibly commissioning a pot for it.
