Looking for information on "Notching"

[August44]

I have several American Beach that do not have branches down low on the trunks and thought I would try to notch some dormant buds to see if I can make that happen. Also want to try that on some conifers. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[nuttiest]

There is not a lot of information in the bonsai community about notching, best to just do it and post a photo so we have at least one reference here.

 

[hemmy]

Oh cool! Like this? I’d also love to hear if that works on older wood to disrupt auxin flow to the buds.

A quicker method is “notching,” in which a ⅛ inch round (rattail) file is pulled in a single stroke across the branch above the bud, through the bark only. In addition to being quicker, notching can be done in the dormant season, so that a bud can be forced to grow in early spring.

https://ucanr.edu/sites/default/files/2019-07/163133.pdf

 

[August44]

So it will not work this time of year if you know?

 

[penumbra]

There is a surprising amount of information on this technique on the net that even a Luddite like me can find.

 

[nuttiest]

So it will not work this time of year if you know?

Yes now through early summer best time to heal the notch in the trunk.

 

[August44]

There is a surprising amount of information on this technique on the net that even a Luddite like me can find.

Yes I have already read that. There is some differences of opinion in how and what to do in several areas and no one mentioned said to much about different trees. A lot of what I read was about fruit trees. I was hoping that someone on here has experienced it and had first hand knowledge. Makes things a little easier sometimes.

 

[Potawatomi13]

I have done successfully on pine, Douglas fir and oak 1/2" to 3/4" thick. I FIRST wired tree to hold bend after making the cut. Then make cut usually one blade (hacksaw medium teeth or Pocket Boy) thick per individual cut 2 or 3 cuts can be made side by side for a single bend so that bark on opposite side is not split by too sharp a single cut bend. Then bend so cut surfaces meet. If needed can add guy wire to aid in holding together until healed. DO NOT WIRE TREE AFTER CUTTING as this will twist the tree and endanger integrity of cambium on opposite side and mismatch surfaces. Cover thoroughly with PASTE type cut paste so as not to get into wound. I have left these wired for at least a full year including two growing seasons or even for a third growing season to make sure of healing join. All were successful.

 

[Shibui]

I have done successfully on pine, Douglas fir and oak. I FIRST wired tree to hold bend after making the cut. Then make cut usually one blade (hacksaw medium teeth or Pocket Boy) thick per individual cut 2 or 3 cuts can be made side by side for a single bend so that bark on opposite side is not split by too sharp a single cut bend. Then bend so cut surfaces meet. If needed can add guy wire to aid in holding together until healed. DO NOT WIRE TREE AFTER CUTTING as this will twist the tree and endanger integrity of cambium on opposite side and mismatch surfaces. Cover thoroughly with PASTE type cut paste so as not to get into wound. I have left these wired for at least a full year including two growing seasons or even for a third growing season to make sure of healing join. All were successful.

That's definitely a useful bonsai technique but I don't think it is what @August44 had in mind with this thread. Th notching he's asking for info is to interrupt flow of auxins so that dormant buds can sprout on a branch or on the trunk.

I've notched to get buds activated a couple of times but way back. Just a single knife cut - grafting knife or similar rather than a wide notch so that it heals quick and no scarring. I think I did have some success but not every bud started. Can't remember timing. Would guess early Spring just before leaves open??

Theory is the notch stops auxin coming down from the growing tips. Auxin coming from the growing tips suppress bud growth. Cutting through the sap stream above a bud will stop auxin from reaching said bud and the bud should activate.

The technique is relatively easy and not damaging to the tree so you should just have a go. If the buds fail to grow the cut will just heal up and disappear so no harm done.