Lonely Zundert Mugo - Thoughts on design and a couple questions.

[Japonicus]

I would let it gain strength rather than to keep it teetering between health and lack of health.

At first I was concerned with the colour, but having a hemlock that turns golden for Winter
I had to look up Zundert mugo...
Quote from Coenosium Gardens "This selection has an exceptionally bright gold winter color and distinctively long needles. Its mature shape is much lower and denser than a typical v. pumilio."

Still let the solar panels as Vance referred to them as, benefit the tree, more,
before a cut back, or before working the roots hard. You suggest...

Upcoming events if all goes well appear to be a hard cut down and possibly a repot in an Anderson flat

I would suggest to wire it again at most to stay off the teeter totter, then Anderson flat only next Summer.
Even if it wasn't a dwarf, but especially so being a dwarf to semi-dwarf.
If you absolutely have to do more than wiring it this year, up-potting it to the next size pot in a slip pot fashion
without disturbing the roots might be ok, but I wouldn't myself if it's draining freely, or when you potted it up last time
you had a fit that wasn't restricted.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Mugo continues to show good growth, fattening up the trunk.

I’m planning future apex reduction. Looking for your thoughts.

I pruned excess branch tip growth towards the trunk as it e was getting leggy.. See before photo on previous post.

Next step would be repotting this summer in anderson flat or similar.

Then the next job would be to bring down the apex in ‘23. This is what I would like input on and any other thoughts on the tree.

Note: I partially wired up second and third tier of branches from bottom up a bit to try to get a better view.

Will wire up the selected apex branch after selection.

Here’s a couple options I’m thinking about.

Red - Apex down two branches
Green Apex down tree branches

Both are getting back buds interior of branch tip.



Cheers
DAD sends

 

[Backwardsvg]

I like it! Following the thread

 

[Srt8madness]

DAD sends? Who's that guy and what did he do with DSD?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

I’m still here!

Having six daughters I write DAD a lot. Recently I’ve somehow convinced the danged spell checker DSD is no longer a valid acronym, so it keeps changing DSD to DAD! @$!$!!!

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Taking stock of this now 3 yr test/project tree. Since last post three things have been done.

1. Top was cut back.
2. Branches were pushed in as new buds were available. Each of the lower branches have been pushed back between 2/3 and 1/2 of their former length
3. Vertical slices were made around the base of the trunk. These were a test to see if the trunk could be smoothed out from the marks from fused roots, a graft even, from years ago.
4. Trimming off stubs left from cut backs in the past two years and cutpasting

Slicing vertical cuts above lower trunk bulge.



Finished, before placing in winter storage Dec 1 2023



A couple thoughts on cutting back down the line


……Lose branch?……………..Trim top?………….Lose entire top?…..

Any thoughts?

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Paradox]

I don't know why you keep cutting it back so much and so often.
Do you want to have any tree left?
It's a pine, not a maple

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Excellent observation. Don’t I know it.

I sense frustration in this seemingly ‘backwards development’ method.

Yet good progress has been made. The very lanky growth has closed up nicely, the lower branches are beginning to ramify and the tree remains healthy.

The tree is being protected all winter in either one of the greenhouses or the cold frame.

So looking for future looking design focused ideas using where the tree is now as a base.

Two notes. Keep the tree smallish and gnarly. Nothing will be done for at least a year.

Best
DSD sends

 

[Japonicus]

I really liked where this tree was last update May of 2022.
@Deep Sea Diver don't forget the dwarf-ish habit of this tree. What are your finished plans for height in 10 or 15 years?
I truly think ...

Vertical slices were made around the base of the trunk. These were a test to see if the trunk could be smoothed out from the marks from fused roots, a graft even, from years ago.

...that the previous height of your tree, being the major push for trunk development that it was, was helping with girth and any blending of the root wrapped trunk line or whatever that area is your techniques were trying to blend. I'm confident that as it barks up and gains girth, it will blend.

 

[Paradox]

I really liked where this tree was last update May of 2022.
@Deep Sea Diver don't forget the dwarf-ish habit of this tree. What are your finished plans for height in 10 or 15 years?
I truly think ...

...that the previous height of your tree, being the major push for trunk development that it was, was helping with girth and any blending of the root wrapped trunk line or whatever that area is your techniques were trying to blend. I'm confident that as it barks up and gains girth, it will blend.

I agree the tree that was there in May 2022 was a pretty good start and I liked it better as well.
Too late now though...

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thanks folks. Good food for thought. Original goal was to keep the tree no more than 2’.

The last cut down was done as didn’t like thickness in the upper section and considered it a sacrifice.

One thought was to let the new top grow to gain the 2’ and see where it’s at then.

Will reassess this height goal. Any thoughts?

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Japonicus]

Will reassess this height goal. Any thoughts?

Next time you cut anything back like this, leave a stub at least an inch long to allow the tree
space to compartmentalize the wound. I think Vance mentions that in Mugo resources.
If the tree has any die back as it stands now, look what is involved in the die back area.
If it does not have any die back, count yourself lucky and it will be fine.
I see your intentions to induce taper (if left at this current height).
For that to work, the foliage should be much shorter. Since we cannot work these like JBP
you're going to have to determine if you can reduce the foliage size.
Where it was in post #22 was an excellent match for foliage length I think.
So your height reassessment may revolve around scale. Hold tight for about 7 years to get it back
to that height if you keep it repotted in Anderson flats or pond baskets, or however you grow
your trees out. Single flush conifers of this character are quite slow.
Do not pinch or shorten the apical leader in any way during development.
Also, the soil surface needs some attention for good root health. Looks a bit stuffy.

Now I have to tell you, I suck at azaleas so far, so I have a ton of respect for your capabilities

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thanks for the help! It’s reallygreat to be able to get advice from a knowledgeable single flush kind of guy like yourself @Japonicus

This has always been a straw man tree to experiment with. We have a number of other pines of all types doing really well. I guess it’s time to knock off the experimentation and get serious. (Did leave stubs during pruning, cut these off before shooting the images.)

This spring I’ll up pot the tree and let er rip.

btw The ground cover is also a pn experiment - a really successful experiment. We got the succulent from two trees originating from a Japanese American architect. We discovered it grows extremely well tiny roots and doesn’t actually affect drainage. It does hold in the moisture. The rest is Yamagoke (Mountain moss) also known for good porosity. (Used often for azaleas btw to decidedly good effect.)

Discovered these grow together well, coupled or separately with Biochar in the media appear to spur tree growth. Not sure if it’s the water retention or a boost in the rhizosphere activity or both that causes this. We do rarely use ‘cides as there hardly ever is a need for these now.

Got an Anderson flat with this tree’s name on it waiting for next year.

cheers
DSD sends