Large Tridents Please Help!

[jbhampton31]

I am a beginning my 2nd yr in bonsai. I purchased these trident maples from a widow of a club member who has passed. I got these trees late last spring and I am looking for help on how best to get these trees back on a path towards becoming bonsai. Trident #1 has 3 trunks and a big calloused base after removing the rotted dead wood on what I consider the back. As the tree grows taller inverse taper arrives as many branches are coming out of 1 place and is overall too tall. This tree is currently in an Anderson Flat and I had to saw the roots from the ground before transporting it home... I have 2 large Oval Mica training pots for these 2 trees. Trident #2 is a fused base trident that now has many thin straight shoots going straight up. I removed 4 or 5 seedlings in the front that had not fused and created a small group planting with them. This tree is currently in a large nursery pot. I am going to be taking these trees to a local club meeting towards the end of the month. But I am open to any ideas or advice anyone can offer on how best to proceed on these trees, as a newbie I would really appreciate the input..I know they both need repotting and major cut backs on both. I also know that performing those tasks at the same time is frowned upon and can weaken the tree.I know these tridents are many years away from becoming nice bonsai specimens. But please chime in on what you think the next and best steps would be as we approach spring here in Johnson City TN zone 7. Also I made a post a few months ago showing pictures of a large trunked cork bark chinese elm... I am planning on taking that tree to a workshop with Shannon Saylor early March so please check that post as well all comments and concepts appreciated. I love these trees!

Jason

 

[Shibui]

Tridents are a species that has no problem with hard chop above and below soil in one operation. I do hundreds of these each year and rarely have any complications.
Trident roots can be reduced to stubs and still regrow come spring.
Trident trunks can also be chopped really hard. These still have nodes visible so should have no problem growing new shoots from the trunks. If inverse taper is a problem I would just chop below and cross fingers for new, well placed shoots. For multi trunks you'll need to chop all trunks making the thinner trunks shorter than the thicker ones to maintain appropriate taper and trunk heights.

Looks like the hollows would be appropriate to use as features on these trees so keep looking for opportunities to get new leaders and branches appropriate for those hollows to be toward the front.

The few, strong, exposed roots of the triple trunk seem distracting to me. I would be considering either removing some or all (that will leave large scars so probably not the best option) or starting new roots at the same level or above to replace the current roots altogether (also difficult as the trunk split very low)

Hard to get a good feel for the tree in the pot. I would certainly be getting some local help where people can see the trees right round to get best opinions.

 

[jbhampton31]

Tridents are a species that has no problem with hard chop above and below soil in one operation. I do hundreds of these each year and rarely have any complications.
Trident roots can be reduced to stubs and still regrow come spring.
Trident trunks can also be chopped really hard. These still have nodes visible so should have no problem growing new shoots from the trunks. If inverse taper is a problem I would just chop below and cross fingers for new, well placed shoots. For multi trunks you'll need to chop all trunks making the thinner trunks shorter than the thicker ones to maintain appropriate taper and trunk heights.

Looks like the hollows would be appropriate to use as features on these trees so keep looking for opportunities to get new leaders and branches appropriate for those hollows to be toward the front.

The few, strong, exposed roots of the triple trunk seem distracting to me. I would be considering either removing some or all (that will leave large scars so probably not the best option) or starting new roots at the same level or above to replace the current roots altogether (also difficult as the trunk split very low)

Hard to get a good feel for the tree in the pot. I would certainly be getting some local help where people can see the trees right round to get best opinions.

thank you see i had the feeling the deadwood and callous on the 3 trunk was the bad side since deadwood on decidous and all that... Like I was saying still very new and havent done anything with them last yr but grow out and recover after rooted in ground... I have heard of grafting roots but don't know how yet may be something down the road... I am just wanting to start them on a good course back to redemption. I know it all takes time and is an expercise in patience.. I have probably 15 thin tridents probably 3/4 in trunk seedlings i am thinking of growing in ground because i understand tridents are vigorous growers. I have some in pond baskets, terracotta azalea pots, and some still in nursery pots.. I feel more comfortable making bigger cuts to those that these big guys.

 

[Shibui]

thank you see i had the feeling the deadwood and callous on the 3 trunk was the bad side since deadwood on decidous and all that...

There is still a strong prejudice against dead wood on deciduous but it is beginning to relax as we, in the west, gain some courage to change traditions. I think there may even be a move to accept new ideas among younger bonsai practitioners in Japan.
Done well, dead wood can be a strong feature, even on deciduous. In this case it appears that hiding the dead part on the triple would give a much worse outcome.
Not so sure about the second clump style tree. I can't see any real great features as it stands. That may change as the trunks thicken and develop. Could also just be the photos.
As always, just my 2c

 

[Colt225]

I am a beginning my 2nd yr in bonsai. I purchased these trident maples from a widow of a club member who has passed. I got these trees late last spring and I am looking for help on how best to get these trees back on a path towards becoming bonsai. Trident #1 has 3 trunks and a big calloused base after removing the rotted dead wood on what I consider the back. As the tree grows taller inverse taper arrives as many branches are coming out of 1 place and is overall too tall. This tree is currently in an Anderson Flat and I had to saw the roots from the ground before transporting it home... I have 2 large Oval Mica training pots for these 2 trees. Trident #2 is a fused base trident that now has many thin straight shoots going straight up. I removed 4 or 5 seedlings in the front that had not fused and created a small group planting with them. This tree is currently in a large nursery pot. I am going to be taking these trees to a local club meeting towards the end of the month. But I am open to any ideas or advice anyone can offer on how best to proceed on these trees, as a newbie I would really appreciate the input..I know they both need repotting and major cut backs on both. I also know that performing those tasks at the same time is frowned upon and can weaken the tree.I know these tridents are many years away from becoming nice bonsai specimens. But please chime in on what you think the next and best steps would be as we approach spring here in Johnson City TN zone 7. Also I made a post a few months ago showing pictures of a large trunked cork bark chinese elm... I am planning on taking that tree to a workshop with Shannon Saylor early March so please check that post as well all comments and concepts appreciated. I love these trees!

Jason

You really answered your own question major cutback

 

[jbhampton31]

worked on the tridents today!

 

[rollwithak]

There is still a strong prejudice against dead wood on deciduous but it is beginning to relax as we, in the west, gain some courage to change traditions. I think there may even be a move to accept new ideas among younger bonsai practitioners in Japan.
Done well, dead wood can be a strong feature, even on deciduous. In this case it appears that hiding the dead part on the triple would give a much worse outcome.
Not so sure about the second clump style tree. I can't see any real great features as it stands. That may change as the trunks thicken and develop. Could also just be the photos.
As always, just my 2c

The only thing constant in life is change