Large chunky european hornbeam stump styling

[AshleyMammal]

Hi folks,

I've managed to acquire this incredible european hornbeam stump. It has been initially styled by the previous owner but my concern is that it only has three, high-up, primary branches, two of which emanate from practically the same spot, with the first branch having been wired down in a more pine-like image. My thinking is I'd really like at least one or two lower branches - coming up and out in a more authentic natural deciduous way. I really want to keep the overall height of the tree down to really accentuate the power of the trunk.

With the numerous visible buds on the primary branches, I'm thinking it's unlikely to activate dormant buds in the big ole' trunk in spring? Would people chop off the primaries in the hope of more numerous and lower buds or rely on grafting?

Either way I'm looking forward to carving this monster at some point!

 

[Dabbler]

Depending on when it was last repotted -In spring I would fix the planting angle/potting/exposed roots - work the chop and cut back the main branches pretty hard to grow better taper rather the worry about branch structure. It will naturally back bud while working on the structure. To me this tree is still in structure phase - the branches will work themselves out if you plan for that while working the main taper/ trunks.

 

[AshleyMammal]

Depending on when it was last repotted -In spring I would fix the planting angle/potting/exposed roots - work the chop and cut back the main branches pretty hard to grow better taper rather the worry about branch structure. It will naturally back bud while working on the structure. To me this tree is still in structure phase - the branches will work themselves out if you plan for that while working the main taper/ trunks.

Good points, I forgot to mention that I'm not going for the 'traditional' grow out three sections of trunk taper route but more a 'Super @BobbyLane Special' naturalistic (and towards fantasy) ravaged ancient tree, with potentially a fair bit of carving.

I agree on the planting angle!

 

[Gabler]

Hi folks,

I've managed to acquire this incredible european hornbeam stump. It has been initially styled by the previous owner but my concern is that it only has three, high-up, primary branches, two of which emanate from practically the same spot, with the first branch having been wired down in a more pine-like image. My thinking is I'd really like at least one or two lower branches - coming up and out in a more authentic natural deciduous way. I really want to keep the overall height of the tree down to really accentuate the power of the trunk.

With the numerous visible buds on the primary branches, I'm thinking it's unlikely to activate dormant buds in the big ole' trunk in spring? Would people chop off the primaries in the hope of more numerous and lower buds or rely on grafting?

Either way I'm looking forward to carving this monster at some point!

View attachment 520215

Depending on when it was last repotted -In spring I would fix the planting angle/potting/exposed roots - work the chop and cut back the main branches pretty hard to grow better taper rather the worry about branch structure. It will naturally back bud while working on the structure. To me this tree is still in structure phase - the branches will work themselves out if you plan for that while working the main taper/ trunks.

Yeah, the first thing that jumped out at me is the fact that the previous owner didn't pot it deep enough, and the nebari were allowed to dry out. Pour more soil in there ASAP (although it's probably too late to make a difference), and in the spring, figure out how far back the roots have died, as well as what kind of work you'll need to do in the future to get the base sorted out.

 

[Kanorin]

Agree on covering up those surface roots ASAP. As to your question about trunk budding, here's what I would do. Let the tree grow mainly unchecked for the next year...you'll want that top branch to grow unchecked anyway since that will be your next section of trunk. Fertilize aggressively. You might get lucky and get a few buds to pop on the trunk. If not, (or if they are not in good places) towards the second half of the growing season next year, take 1 or 2 of the long leggy branches that you've been growing out and wire them such that they are in a good position to thread graft in spring of 2025.

 

[luvinthemountains]

Yeah, the first thing that jumped out at me is the fact that the previous owner didn't pot it deep enough, and the nebari were allowed to dry out. Pour more soil in there ASAP (although it's probably too late to make a difference), and in the spring, figure out how far back the roots have died, as well as what kind of work you'll need to do in the future to get the base sorted out.

You could be right and it might be too late, but I have a Korean hornbeam with that same problem that I waited to address, and still had some luck with flat-cutting under the root and covering with soil.

 

[AshleyMammal]

Yeah, the first thing that jumped out at me is the fact that the previous owner didn't pot it deep enough, and the nebari were allowed to dry out. Pour more soil in there ASAP (although it's probably too late to make a difference), and in the spring, figure out how far back the roots have died, as well as what kind of work you'll need to do in the future to get the base sorted out.

That large sticking up root doesn't concern me overly, there is live root under it close to the trunk. I'd planned to eventually reduce it and potentially work it as a hollow feature

 

[BobbyLane]

The base is very good on this, if it was mine i'd have absolutely no problem doing some light root work on it and having a look at whats under there now. Id keep it in this tub or something a similar size, so no reason to cut any roots off really. and tilt the tree towards the right so the right side is more in the soil and you'll get a better overall balance of the base, it will look more grounded and powerful.
Absolutely no nodes on the trunk? Ideally you'll want at least one branch from the back for depth...
Btw not uncommon for root tips to die off on cut roots, the bit thats dead would be too long anyway. I can see the live bit going into the soil youre talking about. No I wouldnt cut any branches off.

 

[BobbyLane]

Good points, I forgot to mention that I'm not going for the 'traditional' grow out three sections of trunk taper route but more a 'Super @BobbyLane Special' naturalistic (and towards fantasy) ravaged ancient tree, with potentially a fair bit of carving.

I agree on the planting angle!

I would still allow the current leader to grow out, you'll be surprised how fast it will thicken, since the tree only has three branches and this is the uppermost branch on the tree. If you allow it free growth.

 

[BobbyLane]

This one is being built from just two main branches. Only issue with yours is that the branches all come from the front

 

[BobbyLane]

Slightly off topic, but how aggressive can you be with Hornbeams? Here's some insight, because I feel like many people dont really know, Elms, Field maples can all take this type of work. Im not advising this for the tree above, it probably doesnt need it at this stage. But I feel its good practice to watch what serious enthusiasts, pros, etc are doing. A lot of people on the forums arent really doing anything.

 

[Gabler]

A lot of people on the forums arent really doing anything.

I'm not sure I understand what that means.

 

[AshleyMammal]