Best method for large Chinese elm cuttings?

Michael P

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Some secondary and tertiary branches may need to be removed from an elm I've been developing for about 25 years. They are well ramified and I don't want to lose that work, but they are in very difficult places to air layer. The largest one is about 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter. Could these be successful cuttings and what would be the best way to do it, especially time of year?
Thanks in advance.
 
I have done some elm cutting last winter, they were all about a centimeter thick at the least. Some going 1.5.
I had a strike rate of about 80% by dipping them in rooting hormone powder and jamming them in potting soil.
 
I'm resurrecting this thread because I still have the same question. I want to take these branches off in late winter and I don't want to waste the ramification. Would cuttings taken at that time of year be viable? Any special techniques needed?
 
I have found elm branches hit and miss. Cuttings up to 2 inches diameter struck without a lot of thought, just planted deel (50%+ covered) and lightly protected against drying out in a coarse rooting medium.
 
Thank you both! I was thinking of doing this in early spring at re potting time, at or before bud swell. Should I wait until the first flush of growth hardens?

As a side note, large root cuttings at that time of year have almost all been successful.
 
I’ve dug up elms with basically no roots and most of them made it alright. I’d say you have a pretty good chance striking a whole branch.
 
Some secondary and tertiary branches may need to be removed from an elm I've been developing for about 25 years. They are well ramified and I don't want to lose that work, but they are in very difficult places to air layer. The largest one is about 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter. Could these be successful cuttings and what would be the best way to do it, especially time of year?
Thanks in advance.
Elms can do hardwood cuttings with fair success. I have several I've done that way. Success depends on getting them in some type of medium before energy transfers to opening buds. I would say late enough that frost danger is MOSTLY past by a few weeks prior to bud swell. If you wait too long, you will have zero success.
 
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