Kotohime shohin clump

[markyscott]

I have little doubt.

I just have trouble with the notion that good trees means that particular rituals are necessary/sensible and relevant to having/producing good trees. It pays to understand why, IMHO.

I only offer what I was taught and what I do myself when repotting. I've no idea which part of the technique is most important and which, if removed, would give you the same result. I doubt there is any scientific support for tapping down the soil surface with a trowel. Using one does compact the top soil a bit by rotating the grains toward a closest packed configuration which reduces the porosity. The effect is probably small and most pronounced near the soil surface - I doubt it has much impact deeper in the pot. Does it matter? Probably not hugely, but it does help produce a nice flat soil surface, which aids with watering and is attractive to my eye. Can you achieve the effect some other way? Probably - I often use my hand to similar effect, particularly on bigger pots - sometimes skipping the trowel all together. Will the plants grow as well if you don't do it? Probably - but we won't know unless someone does a study. For me, I just live with the wonder and do it anyway. If nothing else, I like the way it looks when I'm done.

 

[tstrum]

Hi DJ - eventually it will go into a shallower pot. But right now it's in development and, horticulturally, its easier to keep it happy in slightly deeper pot. The grain size you see is what I use for all my maples - finer grained would keep it wetter. The white pumice will stay pretty white. But as the weather get's warmer I'll cover the soil with a finer grain size substrate. Then milled sphagnum - the pumice won't be noticeable.

Newbie question: Is the purpose of the milled sphagnum simply aesthetic or is it used for the purpose of adding organic element to your soil, similar to having some pine bark with the inorganic substrates?

 

[Dav4]

Newbie question: Is the purpose of the milled sphagnum simply aesthetic or is it used for the purpose of adding organic element to your soil, similar to having some pine bark with the inorganic substrates?

It's to keep the surface of the soil moist which will protect the more superficial roots from drying out.

 

[tstrum]

It's to keep the surface of the soil moist which will protect the more superficial roots from drying out.

Thank you!

 

[nover18]

I think Scott does a great job with his tutorial posts!

Hey Scott! How about one dedicated to just how to properly wire rootballs to the pot, using all the different kinds of pots? One holed pots, two holed pots, threes, and fours.

I think Jonas has a good one over on Bonsai Tonight Blog. Very informative. I've bookmarked for future reference: https://bonsaitonight.com/2016/12/27/secure-bonsai-pot/

 

[markyscott]

Spring foliage.

 

[ConorDash]

Thank you for taking the time to write this thread so far @markyscott . You've always given such detailed replies and advice to my threads, it's a pleasure to read your guides.

 

[Les]

Same here Mark, thanks for your threads. I did my first thread graft today on my Arakawa buy reading your post. I also have two maples that need root grafting done soon and I'm going try it the way you showed on a different post

 

[JoeR]

I loveee my kotohime, super jealous of the beaut you got there

 

[MichaelS]

="markyscott, post: 421765,

• 
  It increases the water saturation in the soil.

• 
  

I question this Scott. The fact that pumice (or any substrate with pores in it - including akadama) absorbs water by capillary action will continue to draw water down to it negating any ''saturation layer'' The real benefit of a ''drainage layer'' (incorrect terminology really) is that it provides larger air spaces BETWEEN the particles at the bottom of the pot. If the pores of the lower layer substrate are smaller than the spaces between the particles of the upper layer, you cannot get a saturated layer in the upper soil. A saturated layer is only theoretically possible if lower layer is non porous. (solid rock etc.) Even then there needs to be a substantial difference between the particle sizes of the layers and no mixing between them.

 

[markyscott]

I question this Scott. The fact that pumice (or any substrate with pores in it - including akadama) absorbs water by capillary action will continue to draw water down to it negating any ''saturation layer'' The real benefit of a ''drainage layer'' (incorrect terminology really) is that it provides larger air spaces BETWEEN the particles at the bottom of the pot. If the pores of the lower layer substrate are smaller than the spaces between the particles of the upper layer, you cannot get a saturated layer in the upper soil. A saturated layer is only theoretically possible if lower layer is non porous. (solid rock etc.) Even then there needs to be a substantial difference between the particle sizes of the layers and no mixing between them.

LOL! I agree it's a bit misleading, but the term "drainage layer" is the one in common use. If you want to make a change, you'll have to request a hearing at the next Subcommittee Meeting on Standard Bonsai Nomenclature at the International Convention of Dwarf Miniature Trees. Until then, we're stuck with it.

I question your assertion about the affect of microporosity on water saturations. I've read statements you've made to that effect before, but don't care much to debate it on a thread about my little kotohime. But if you can PM to me a reference that demonstrates this is the case in dual porosity systems, I'd be very keen to read it.

I agree with your second point - the effect is related to the difference in average grain size between the substrate and drainage layer.

 

[Deleted member 21616]

@markyscott any updates for this tree?

Thank you for all of the documentation!

 

[markyscott]

@markyscott any updates for this tree?

Thank you for all of the documentation!

I’m afraid I lost this one. I battled anthracnose for a full year and was never able to get it under control. New growth extended infected and the tip died. The tree weakened over the growing season and eventually kicked the bucket. It was a bummer.

S

 

[Lars Grimm]

I had the same problem with an arakawa maple. So depressing to fight the losing anthracose battle.....

 

[Deleted member 21616]

@markyscott very sorry to hear that! Sorry i brought it up!

again thanks for the great documentation throughout the site. Been going through your posts carefully taking notes

 

[markyscott]

@markyscott very sorry to hear that! Sorry i brought it up!

again thanks for the great documentation throughout the site. Been going through your posts carefully taking notes

No problem. We all lose trees and it’s ok to talk about it. We SHOULD talk about it as it’s as much of a learning experience as anything else we do. Problem likely started with placement- I put it in a location that was a bit too shady and stayed too wet without having enough air circulation. I won’t make that mistake again.

S

 

[ConorDash]

No problem. We all lose trees and it’s ok to talk about it. We SHOULD talk about it as it’s as much of a learning experience as anything else we do. Problem likely started with placement- I put it in a location that was a bit too shady and stayed too wet without having enough air circulation. I won’t make that mistake again.

S

Can I ask, what is “not enough air circulation”?
Surely if it’s in a garden, barring being in a corner of 3 solid walls, how can it not get enough air circulating?
Just looking for some perspective

 

[markyscott]

Can I ask, what is “not enough air circulation”?
Surely if it’s in a garden, barring being in a corner of 3 solid walls, how can it not get enough air circulating?
Just looking for some perspective

A short way of saying, keep it away from the wall, leave room between adjacent plants and keep it out form under the shade of overlying trees.

S

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I have a maple likely, infected by anthracose, that I treated with a couple different fungicides and it seems to have recovered for the growing season. Do you think this will be a reoccurring battle with the tree from now on, or do you think your variety might be more susceptible?

I was planning on giving it a fall, winter and spring treatment to get it "through the woods." But was hoping not to be reliant on fungicide henceforth. It originally developed the issue while "planted in" to a grow bed which I won't be doing any more.

 

[markyscott]

I have a maple likely, infected by anthracose, that I treated with a couple different fungicides and it seems to have recovered for the growing season. Do you think this will be a reoccurring battle with the tree from now on, or do you think your variety might be more susceptible?

I was planning on giving it a fall, winter and spring treatment to get it "through the woods." But was hoping not to be reliant on fungicide henceforth. It originally developed the issue while "planted in" to a grow bed which I won't be doing any more.

I’m a big believer in dormant season spraying rather than regular applications of fungicide as a preventative