Key Lime Tree Bonsai?

Jetson1950

Yamadori
Messages
93
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165
Location
Central Florida
USDA Zone
9b
I want to move this key Lime Tree to make room for something else, and I’m thinking why not just bonsai it. It puts out limes each year and has grown well. I’ve just not seen many lime tree bonsai and wondering if it’s a good candidate. Trunk is straight, but I would chop it at about 8-10” and start it over. From what I can see, the roots should produce a descent nebari.

Need thoughts on it.

IMG_6491.jpegIMG_6492.jpeg
 
I want to move this key Lime Tree to make room for something else, and I’m thinking why not just bonsai it. It puts out limes each year and has grown well. I’ve just not seen many lime tree bonsai and wondering if it’s a good candidate. Trunk is straight, but I would chop it at about 8-10” and start it over. From what I can see, the roots should produce a descent nebari.

Need thoughts on it.

View attachment 607549View attachment 607550
I’d say go for it. Not sure exactly when a good time to dig it up is but I’d assume it would be spring before it starts growing vigorously

Treat it as with other citrus species

 
I’d say go for it. Not sure exactly when a good time to dig it up is but I’d assume it would be spring before it starts growing vigorously

Treat it as with other citrus species

I did some searches on it. Says mid to late summer and spring are both acceptable times here in central Florida (zone 9b) because we have such mild winters. Mid to late summer because there will be another growth period when the summer heat is over.

I think I’ll go for it now. I’ll just want to protect it from any front come winter.
 
Just don't chop it below the graft....I assume it's grafted.
 
Just don't chop it below the graft....I assume it's grafted.
Roger that. I assume the graft top is the bulge on the right about 6” above the roots. Definitely color change there in the trunk. I do see a problem looking at it closely. The trunk above the graft is thicker than the trunk below the graft. Hopefully I can get that to reverse when I start working with it. Strange that the grafted top is growing faster that the lower part.

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You might think about air layering the trunk just below/at the graft line. Keep the new roots on the root stock, but hide the graft as low as possible in the root crown.
 
You might think about air layering the trunk just below/at the graft line. Keep the new roots on the root stock, but hide the graft as low as possible in the root crown.
Okay. That makes sense. Since we’re talking air layer instead of just a dig up and repot, do you think I should wait till spring to get a better growth spirt.
 
Air layer sounds much better this time of year down here. If your gonna dig it up, i would hold off a couple months at least. We are under that stupid heat dome right now, so all potted plants are stressed from the heat
 
Air layer sounds much better this time of year down here. If your gonna dig it up, i would hold off a couple months at least. We are under that stupid heat dome right now, so all potted plants are stressed from the heat
Roger that. A lot of my more sensitive trees (Japanese maples) are in full Shade and their little leaf tips are still curling and drying. It’s pretty brutal on them. I think it only got down to 79 last night.

I’m going to think about this for a while and decide if the trunk as it is will be acceptable. I would rather just use what is there than try to air layer it. Besides, if I use it as is and it doesn’t look right, I can still air layer the root stock off at a later time.
 
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