Juniper Critique

[nurvbonsai]

Hi all,

I watched some more videos today and brought home a green mound juniper from the nursery. I’m curious to hear what thoughts you might have around it. The top i think could use some more shaping. And any thing else that sticks out like a sore thumb I want to hear about it, or read about it. Stay blessed!

 

[Wulfskaar]

Please take this with a grain of salt. I have no junipers, so I haven't done better than you.

But... there is no harmony. The branches aren't in harmony with each other. I think there needs to be some element of design that brings them together, such as having the branches sweeping down at roughly the same angle and curve. Or having all the branches wildly wiggly. Just something to make them part of the same design.

As for the top, it's also not part of any design. Consider getting opinions on reducing the top foliage to match the branches, or bending the top down into part of the design and to fill blank space.

I hope I'm making sense.

 

[nurvbonsai]

I believe so. I’m learning as I’m going.

 

[bwaynef]

I don't know what your goals are, but I think there's a lot more that can be done with this tree. The wire you placed doesn't seem to be doing much.

You'll probably need to wait until later in the summer to do these next steps. With proper wiring (technique & material), you can give the tree LOTS more movement. Apply 2-3 strands of thick aluminum and wire it to the tips. Give it lots of movement, remembering to twist as you bend. You're not necessarily going for any shape in particular, just as much movement as you can add. Don't be too monotonous and remember to change direction ....and twist as you go. (Twisting allows you to bend further than you can without it.)

Once you've gotten as much movement as you can get, you need to clean the tree. (Doing it any sooner eliminates some of the freedom you have in adding movement.) Remove foliage growing on the inside of curves and underneath branches. You may need to hold the branches in position to make sure you're removing from the bottom of its final placement. At this point, it should start looking a lot better.

Wire out every woody branch, anchoring it to the wiring you added to the trunk. 1½ -2 coils is enough to anchor smaller wire to larger. Having properly cleaned the tree in the previous step, wire will go on a LOT faster.



While you wait for the proper season:

• Learn how to clean juniper foliage. (first 2 attachments)
• Learn how to place wire. (3rd attachment. Check out this Craftsy Tutorial as well. It should be free.)
• Study as many trees as you can to build your library of what good trees look like.

 

[nurvbonsai]

I don't know what your goals are, but I think there's a lot more that can be done with this tree. The wire you placed doesn't seem to be doing much.

You'll probably need to wait until later in the summer to do these next steps. With proper wiring (technique & material), you can give the tree LOTS more movement. Apply 2-3 strands of thick aluminum and wire it to the tips. Give it lots of movement, remembering to twist as you bend. You're not necessarily going for any shape in particular, just as much movement as you can add. Don't be too monotonous and remember to change direction ....and twist as you go. (Twisting allows you to bend further than you can without it.)

Once you've gotten as much movement as you can get, you need to clean the tree. (Doing it any sooner eliminates some of the freedom you have in adding movement.) Remove foliage growing on the inside of curves and underneath branches. You may need to hold the branches in position to make sure you're removing from the bottom of its final placement. At this point, it should start looking a lot better.

Wire out every woody branch, anchoring it to the wiring you added to the trunk. 1½ -2 coils is enough to anchor smaller wire to larger. Having properly cleaned the tree in the previous step, wire will go on a LOT faster.



While you wait for the proper season:

• Learn how to clean juniper foliage. (first 2 attachments)
• Learn how to place wire. (3rd attachment. Check out this Craftsy Tutorial as well. It should be free.)
• Study as many trees as you can to build your library of what good trees look like.

Thanks so much!

 

[dbonsaiw]

I believe so. I’m learning as I’m going.

We all are. Welcome to the club.

 

[nurvbonsai]

We all are. Welcome to the club.

Did I ruin my tree? I also read that I could cut back and wire during the spring season. How’s the harmony now? It feels drastic, but worth the move?

 

[dbonsaiw]

Did I ruin my tree?

Unfortunately, I don’t know anything about junipers. If it doesn’t lose its leaves in the fall, I don’t know anything about that species.

 

[nurvbonsai]

Unfortunately, I don’t know anything about junipers. If it doesn’t lose its leaves in the fall, I don’t know anything about that species.

I’ve understood it through the mentorship programs that I’ve been part of cleaning up the tree as much as possible, watching videos as part of this forum has been really beneficial.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Putting the particular species aside, what I try to do (sometimes better than others) is to understand where my tree is now, figure out one or more potential “finished” products and figure out/implement a way of getting from where I am to where I want to be.

How tall do I want the tree to be? The desired height of the tree will dictate options for trunk thickness. For example, a one inch thick trunk at the base of a 5 foot tree is a little tree, not a bonsai. Proportions can vary, but 1:6 to 1:12 is a pretty wide rule of thumb. Thin trunks require lots of growth to thicken up, so we let our trees grow to power the thickening.

Trunk Taper is required to pull off a realistic looking bonsai. This can involve trunk chopping and developing the next section of trunk (at least on deciduous) and/or the use of sacrifice branches.

Chopping, bending and wiring will be used to add movement.

And of course Nebari should be worked on from the outset and onwards.

Trees may look wonky while in development. It’s not always (ever???) possible to maintain a pretty little tree while we work to our end goal. I have family members who believe Ive completely lost my mind because I have been caring for certain trees for a few years and they still look like stumps with grey putty - they can’t discern the progress. Like I’m the guy from The Shining working on my magnum opus that just repeatedly says “all work and no play makes jack a bad boy”. Just because it may look “drastic” doesn’t mean you’re not on the right track (but again I know nothing about junipers and you may be on the wrong track - we learn from our mistakes and try again).

 

[nurvbonsai]

Putting the particular species aside, what I try to do (sometimes better than others) is to understand where my tree is now, figure out one or more potential “finished” products and figure out/implement a way of getting from where I am to where I want to be.

How tall do I want the tree to be? The desired height of the tree will dictate options for trunk thickness. For example, a one inch thick trunk at the base of a 5 foot tree is a little tree, not a bonsai. Proportions can vary, but 1:6 to 1:12 is a pretty wide rule of thumb. Thin trunks require lots of growth to thicken up, so we let our trees grow to power the thickening.

Trunk Taper is required to pull off a realistic looking bonsai. This can involve trunk chopping and developing the next section of trunk (at least on deciduous) and/or the use of sacrifice branches.

Chopping, bending and wiring will be used to add movement.

And of course Nebari should be worked on from the outset and onwards.

Trees may look wonky while in development. It’s not always (ever???) possible to maintain a pretty little tree while we work to our end goal. I have family members who believe Ive completely lost my mind because I have been caring for certain trees for a few years and they still look like stumps with grey putty - they can’t discern the progress. Like I’m the guy from The Shining working on my magnum opus that just repeatedly says “all work and no play makes jack a bad boy”. Just because it may look “drastic” doesn’t mean you’re not on the right track (but again I know nothing about junipers and you may be on the wrong track - we learn from our mistakes and try again).

I totally hear that. I’m constantly reminded to put an intention out there before touching the tree.

 

[Wulfskaar]

I don't think the tree is ruined at all! I really hope I didn't give that impression!

I just think it needs to be styled and refined. I think it can be a very nice bonsai!!!

 

[nurvbonsai]

I ended up here for the night.

 

[nurvbonsai]

I don't think the tree is ruined at all! I really hope I didn't give that impression!

I just think it needs to be styled and refined. I think it can be a very nice bonsai!!!

I ended up here for the night. I tried to reduce in scale. It feels more punky which I dig a lot but hope I didn’t run the risk of killing the tree by my own hand. Gonna let it recover.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Why dont you find a photo of a finished tree you like and share it. That way we can assist with achieving a goal and pointing out key aspects of the design.

Some things which came to my mind when looking at your actions which you should start to think about as you practice on young material at this stage:

1. The first (Primary) branch should be thickest (usually).

In your tree, the thickest branch is further up the tree. This should probably be considered your primary branch or you should be considering actions to take to rectify the fact it is not.

2. Where is the best trunk movement?

Not sure on your tree but is there a better front with more interest, a better nebari, better options for the future?

3. What time of year is it and what are recommended actions to take at that time?

Junipers at this time are growing strong, putting on thickness, gaining strength.. removing all the foliage at this time will slow them down when you should be letting them run and gain vigor in preparation for summer pruning, or fall wiring, or even no work, if a major spring action such as a repot or significant reduction is going to take place.

4. What are species-specific horticultural laws to concern myself with?

Juniper wont backbud as easily or at all. Did you remove branches that should have been left for future growth/ramification/taper building?

 

[SeanS]

Here’s an example of a first styling of a procumbens similar to yours from a few years ago. I had wired twisty movement into the trunk 2 years prior when it was still possibly, and then let it grow almost unhindered to get it strong and set the twists in the trunk.
By the time I then gave it this initial styling I had studied the tree extensively and had a good plan in my head.
As @Wulfskaar mentioned all of the branches followed the same theme and had very similar angles in relation to the trunk and to one another.
I’d let your tree grow out now to recover and use that time (1-2 years) to study the tree, as well as study other trees that you find appealing. Then give it another styling once you have a general plan in your head.

 

[Wulfskaar]

After it recovers and you begin considering a design, think about maybe using drastic, sharp, 3D, zigzag shapes for the long branches. By doing that, you might be able to bring the outer foliage back toward the trunk. Or maybe a literati design?

Either way, you'll have plenty of time to think about it while it recovers.

 

[Nera]

@SeanS wow, you wired the branches in such an interesting yet complimentary and very eye-pleasing way. I really like the closely wired branches, It draws you in.

 

[RoadManDenDron]

I just want to ask,

Did you buy the tree in this pot and soil or have you repotted yourself?

 

[Shibui]

I’m curious to hear what thoughts you might have around it.

Your tree has definitely had enough love for now. Junipers do not like losing too much foliage in one go so we tend to space work out when dealing with junipers to be on the safe side.
Junipers are also notorious for branches dying when they are bent in Spring. That's the time of year when growth is maximum so cambium layer between bark and wood is growing which means bark is not well attached to the trunk under it. Small, gradual bends are usually OK but drastic bends can cause bark to separate which then kills part or all of the branch/trunk above that point.
Let the tree recover for at least a few months before any more work.

@Wulfskaar mentioned harmony. That usually means branches that look similar all over the tree. If you think logically, when the tree drew up weather, wind, etc was similar on all sides of the tree so we expect that all branches will look similar.
Your tree has 2 branches on the left side that rise very slightly then sweep gently down with some minor bends along the length. 2 Branches on the right (and back) grow up markedly from the trunk then sweep down and appear (from my viewing angle) to be relatively straight other than the single bend.
I'm left wondering why one side is so much different to the other?
Smaller branches toward the top appear even straighter (though not much length to make bends) and emerge from the trunk at different angles from any of the lower branches - some growing upward, some down.
Reminder to leave it alone for now. Re-bending branches soon after the first bending runs a much higher risk of killing them.

Very pleasing to see you were brave enough to reduce the trunk. So many beginners want to incorporate all of the tree in the design but pruning is a big part of bonsai. It can reduce height as you've done. Get rid of excessively thick upper branches. Add taper to a trunk. Add natural looking bends to a trunk or branch.