Les
Mame
Great work Scott, I potted my maple last year. Is it to soon to repot this year and do some root grafting?
Great work Scott, I potted my maple last year. Is it to soon to repot this year and do some root grafting?
Interesting. Looking forward to that. I'm doing my first graft next spring.wean the graft
Just a side note. Thin shoots (matchstick size) don't need the cambium revealed and it'll still take. Also drilling backwards, ie from exit to entry point, creates a very clean exit hole that doesn't need cleaning up. Another tip is to place some tape on the exit hole to avoid 'blowing out' the cambium as it breaks through.
Me three, never had issues with the cambium dying back. Love all the maple work you've been posting lately!I always drill in through the exit side too.
Looking good Scotr!
Juan Andrade posted his Ebihara style peg graft on Facebook. He says to run the drill at a slow speed to avoid burning.Me three, never had issues with the cambium dying back. Love all the maple work you've been posting lately!
Thanks Marie1uk - those are some excellent suggestions. I'll keep those in mind next time. The reason that I've always drilled in the direction of the graft is to avoid "burning" the cambium. My reasoning was that the drill would rub the longest at the entry point whereas only briefly at the exit. I was concerned that the frictional heating might damage the cambium where I wanted the graft to take. Has this not been a problem in your experience?
No it's never been a problem. I always use a dowel to mark the spot where I want to drill (to avoid slipping) and start off slow. The drill bit is travelling a lot faster as it exits the trunk. The sharp dowel means that the cambium is already compromised so friction is a moot point.
You're welcome @markyscott. Here's a thread graft I did on a cotoneaster over rock to get a good sacrifice in place for ground growing many seasons ago. The whole top got attacked & killed off by a fungus, leaving just the thread graft as the 'trunk'. You can see the obvious colour difference between the silver roots & darker, younger trunk. It's interesting that even over a decade later the drill hole is still visible on the left thick root - proof that you're a nutter to do a root over rock using Cotoneaster - they are like quince in terms of thickening up. This tree was grown from a seedling collected from the side of my house.
Hi leatherback. Yes - I try and avoid pushing putty into any gaps. Key thing is just to keep the water out as much as possible while the wound is callousing over.Nice work, good clear pictures of the procedure.
When I do these, I try to avoid pushing the putty into the hole so the graft can callus over all around. Do you worry about this at all?