Is this pot too big for the tree?

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IMG_5259.jpegI don’t like the pot my arakawa is in, so I’m thinking of slip potting. That said, I’m on the fence on the pot I DO like due to its size. I feel like it’s close, but maybe too much…. It’s current pot fits inside!

What do you think?

Also the apex is bugging me in its silhouette, hopefully I can fix with time…
 

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I think the width of the pot is good, but the depth is slightly too much. A depth closer to the width of the tree will be very nice aesthetically. Planting the tree off to the left or to the right of center will be very nice also since both sides of the tree are very interesting!

I also like a round or oval pot since the tree is slender and feminine in nature. A glazed or unglazed I think would look good. Something rustic.
 
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You have two questions and I think one answers the other. Before I go on I agree with both questions.
Therefore, what if you addressed the apical issue with a slight replanting angle, tilt to the left. Then adjust the position of the plant so it is slightly left in the new pot as well. The end result might be a more dynamic view with apical flow to the left, as well as more of a multi trunk display in a landscape setting or view. A bit more expanse to one side. It may also involve slight position change of one or two interior branches near the top inside the right trunk to fine-tune the flow.
The depth of the pot is fine in my view, Place the tree a tad lower in the pot than the " virtual above"
Just another point of view.
 
It's fine. A pinch deeper than optimal, but it looks good IMO. Might be a bit better than the old one. I would NOT slip pot the tree though-have it been root pruned this year? I'd do that before transplanting it--simply putting the old unpruned root mass into a larger pot is asking for trouble down the road.
 
You have two questions and I think one answers the other. Before I go on I agree with both questions.
Therefore, what if you addressed the apical issue with a slight replanting angle, tilt to the left. Then adjust the position of the plant so it is slightly left in the new pot as well. The end result might be a more dynamic view with apical flow to the left, as well as more of a multi trunk display in a landscape setting or view. A bit more expanse to one side. It may also involve slight position change of one or two interior branches near the top inside the right trunk to fine-tune the flow.
The depth of the pot is fine in my view, Place the tree a tad lower in the pot than the " virtual above"
Just another point of view.
A little like this?

1709641466954.png
 
Yes and no! Yes to the planting angle, but position to the right side so the flow goes left to the open landscape. My screw up, I wrote left when you should have read right.;) Moving the tree to the right centre of the pot will bring your apex over the centre of the mass and also accentuate the flow to the left. two for one.
 
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The size of the pot will seem much more appropriate when the tree is in leaf, or has better developed ramification. Your virtual above works well if you move the tree to the right of the pot.
 
depends - do you like it and does it serve your watering habits needs? If yes, then it's great. If it's going to a show where other people are critiquing it, then by all means maybe an oval or round pot would look great.
 
You have two questions and I think one answers the other. Before I go on I agree with both questions.
Therefore, what if you addressed the apical issue with a slight replanting angle, tilt to the left. Then adjust the position of the plant so it is slightly left in the new pot as well. The end result might be a more dynamic view with apical flow to the left, as well as more of a multi trunk display in a landscape setting or view. A bit more expanse to one side. It may also involve slight position change of one or two interior branches near the top inside the right trunk to fine-tune the flow.
The depth of the pot is fine in my view, Place the tree a tad lower in the pot than the " virtual above"
Just another point of view.

I really like this idea! This will likely be the direction I take. I hadn't even thought of changing the angle because the nebari is pretty good as-is, but I think this makes the most sense. I really appreciate the detailed response.

It's fine. A pinch deeper than optimal, but it looks good IMO. Might be a bit better than the old one. I would NOT slip pot the tree though-have it been root pruned this year? I'd do that before transplanting it--simply putting the old unpruned root mass into a larger pot is asking for trouble down the road.

It was root pruned last year, I was thinking of loosening the roots up a bit to ensure they were integrated into the new soil well, but was erring away from cutting the roots again this year. Might not be a big deal.

I don't disagree that a round pot would work well, I just haven't found one I like for it yet. This pot feels like a good longer-term home while I find the perfect round, but to be honest, I'm kind of being won over by this rectangle too.

Thank you all, all very good input!
 
t was root pruned last year, I was thinking of loosening the roots up a bit to ensure they were integrated into the new soil well, but was erring away from cutting the roots again this year. Might not be a big deal.

I don't disagree that a round pot would work well, I just haven't found one I like for it yet. This pot feels like a good longer-term home while I find the perfect round, but to be honest, I'm kind of being won over by this rectangle too.
The smart thing to do would be to loosen the roots on the sides and prune a bit on the bottom if there is a mat. Not necessary to cut lots of roots. You are just changing pots and it does not require the root work. Each time we handle trees the work should be determined by what wee find not the calendar or the normal work done.
Just a comment on using a rectangle instead of a round or oval. if you get to see enough high end Bonsai displays you will begin to realize that the artist often steps outside the " expected tradition" but they do it for sound reasons.
The pot is a good size, good color, and great shape. If the artists goal is to picture the tree in more of a landscape or field view it is a great choice! Or in the words of John Naka the" simple rectangle is a shape that harmonies with most styles".
If it works for you, I doubt that a knowledgeable judge would deduct points for shape, color or size in this case.
 
I'm not crazy about the round pot suggestion, tbh. Someone a while ago mentioned to me that rotationally symmetrical (round, square, hexagon, lotus, etc) pots work best with strongly asymmetrical trees, and it's stuck with me ever since. Even if you give it the leftward tilt, the visual mass of the second trunk is visually balanced by the right branch.

I'm probably just being too much of a stick in the mud though!
 
Round pots are mostly useless for most bonsai, this one included, unless you have literati trunk. This trunk cries out for lateral visual support. Since it's branches reach laterally. Your instinct for a low muted glazed unadorned rectangle is spot on--a round pot would not visually support the reach of the subsidiary trunk.
 
I'm not crazy about the round pot suggestion, tbh. Someone a while ago mentioned to me that rotationally symmetrical (round, square, hexagon, lotus, etc) pots work best with strongly asymmetrical trees, and it's stuck with me ever since. Even if you give it the leftward tilt, the visual mass of the second trunk is visually balanced by the right branch.

I'm probably just being too much of a stick in the mud though!
Interesting comment, allows the tree to speak for itself. Goes along with the pot's primary role to complement the tree.
When I consider the chosen pot above, this is what I see.
angular with soft corners, soft colour, shallow rectangle, basically straight lines.
One of the best authors for discussion of container selection is David DeGroot. My favourite section is found in his most recent book Principles of Bonsai Design.
A couple of passages for consideration.
Match the character of the tree with the character of the container.
Remember masculine and feminine characteristics are not mutually exclusive.
The tree above has slender trunks and more graceful or elegant appearance. two trunks similar in size from the same base.
A masculine tree with an elegant form is recommended to have a pot with a slim profile, restrained decoration, primarily straight lines.
A feminine tree with a graceful form is recommended to have a regular form with smooth textured surface and glazes.

The character of the tree above is both feminine and masculine. movement is more angular than rounded, bark is rougher than smooth, overall form is slender rather than strong footage or powerful base.

The softer and smoother rectangle is a good fit in this particular circumstance in my view for all of the above.
For those interested in container selection, two of the best written discussions I have encountered are within Techniques 11 by John Naka and Principle of Bonsai Design by David DeGroot. either edition of the latest book. published 2022 second edition, available through Stone Lantern.
 
Here's a rough virt. The long straight section on the left trunk/branch adds little to the composition. Get rid of it (and develop a subapex using the existing branching), tilt it to the left, and plant the whole thing to the right of the pot. Apologies for not taking more time on the virt.
 

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Here's a rough virt. The long straight section on the left trunk/branch adds little to the composition. Get rid of it (and develop a subapex using the existing branching), tilt it to the left, and plant the whole thing to the right of the pot. Apologies for not taking more time on the virt.
I like the planting angle. But hate the chopped shorter branch. It's thick...and stubby cut back. Sometimes living with a flaw is better than trying to fix it. I would not cut it back. That's me.

I would sooner live with what some seem a flaw...than turn character into meh.
 
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