Is my Chinese elm healthy?

Neem is a dormant spray. Avoid it's use during the growing season. I avoid it all together.
Three-in-ones are ok, but diagnose the problem correctly so you can focus in on the appropriate action.
Big nursery cans like this hold too much water on the bottom. New roots tend to populate this area. It's not the best environment for tender root tips, too wet.
Nurseries use these big cans to mitigate watering ….like, they want to water once a week at most. Water costs money and it's basically an overhead cost.
I suspect your watering too much. $15 "water meter" is basically useless. In-accurate and most likely can't reach the deepest regions of your container.
Apply a light spray of your 3-1 to the leaves and the bark. Be judicious, no waterfalls.

Well I have only had it since Saturday and have only watered once. So I don't believe i have had a chance to over water, maybe under water at this point. lol. if a water meter is not the best bet, what are you recommendations with watering? I will treat the trunk with the 3-in-1 as you, are you saying be judicious with the 3-in-1?

Thanks again!
 
I normally wouldn't disagree with Brian, but I am pretty sure this is a Ulmus parvifolia 'yatsubusa'

We were just talking about cork bark elms on another thread, so I happen to have a photo of a yatsubusa that I took earlier today. Note the narrow leaves, and... the same strange yellow markings on the some of the leaves. I personally don't think it is a disease or insect damage, but rather a natural coloration pattern of the cultivar. The grower I got the tree from actually considered it a type of variegation.

Not going to say that I am 100% confident that there isn't something wrong with my tree as well - other than to state that I have had it a good five years, it is on a bench with a whole bunch of other Chinese elms, and it is the only one with these yellow markings. It gets the same water, soil, and fertilization treatment as all my other elms.

Great image, i agree lets see that bark! lol. What are you recommendations on watering?
 
Shot of the bark?

It doesn't really have bark yet, since the trunk is only about 1 1/2" at the soil level.

But it doesn't really matter :) I know the ID of my tree... the question is what is the ID of the OP's tree?
 
Last edited:
I think it would be wise to find the exact cause of the problem, before you throw a pesticide, or anything at it.
Maybe take it to someone that are able to identify positively what is happening.... 👍
It's not easy sometimes to identify a problem by a photo.
 
I normally wouldn't disagree with Brian, but I am pretty sure this is a Ulmus parvifolia 'yatsubusa'

We were just talking about cork bark elms on another thread, so I happen to have a photo of a yatsubusa that I took earlier today. Note the narrow leaves, and... the same strange yellow markings on the some of the leaves. I personally don't think it is a disease or insect damage, but rather a natural coloration pattern of the cultivar. The grower I got the tree from actually considered it a type of variegation.

Not going to say that I am 100% confident that there isn't something wrong with my tree as well - other than to state that I have had it a good five years, it is on a bench with a whole bunch of other Chinese elms, and it is the only one with these yellow markings. It gets the same water, soil, and fertilization treatment as all my other elms.

Doing some research on the elm and type i believe it is Yatsubusa, the bark and foliage look very similar.
 
I think it would be wise to find the exact cause of the problem, before you throw a pesticide, or anything at it.
Maybe take it to someone that are able to identify positively what is happening.... 👍
It's not easy sometimes to identify a problem by a photo.

Thanks, I wish i knew someone. if the bonsai association starts having meetings again I will take there.
 
then what should i treat the bark with? regular neem oil?

Love and Care?!

I wouldn't spray anything on bark like this for fear that it may penetrate different than water and ruin it.

I'd have toothpicks I'm the crevices to kill pests.

I don't know how long a pest may "hide", there doesn't seem to be many if any pests that could feed through bark that thick, so it's not like there would be an army of anything hiding from you.

Have you taken a gander at the soil and rootball?

I'm still finding pill bugs below cause most problems this year.

I believe Peter Warren say 99 times out of ten roots are the issue. It's likely.

Truth, everytime we see a really messed up tree, it has already been sprayed with something or other, and I swear 70% of the time it made the problem worse. Spraying can be a reverse placebo. You think it worked so you stop observing for the real cause.

Sorce
 
DSC00053 (1).JPG
DSC00057 (1).JPG
DSC00056 (1).JPG

2013....leaves didn't seem particularly lancelet and never noticed sickly yellowing, but prone to black spot from time to time.
Growth habit seemed to lend itself more towards a multi-stem look. Not upright and not at that size in the trunk. Bark seemed more plated than furrowed and of course the "bulbous bulging" along the immature stems and branching.
 
Love and Care?!

I wouldn't spray anything on bark like this for fear that it may penetrate different than water and ruin it.

I'd have toothpicks I'm the crevices to kill pests.

I don't know how long a pest may "hide", there doesn't seem to be many if any pests that could feed through bark that thick, so it's not like there would be an army of anything hiding from you.

Have you taken a gander at the soil and rootball?

I'm still finding pill bugs below cause most problems this year.

I believe Peter Warren say 99 times out of ten roots are the issue. It's likely.

Truth, everytime we see a really messed up tree, it has already been sprayed with something or other, and I swear 70% of the time it made the problem worse. Spraying can be a reverse placebo. You think it worked so you stop observing for the real cause.

Sorce
Great response! Thanks for this. I have not taken a look at the soil or root ball. I will do that today and snap some images. I agree, I do not want to harm the bark, so I haven’t sprayed yet. Here are some quick images of the top soil, it is very compacted so I couldn’t expose much by hand. I’ll pull it up and take more.
 

Attachments

  • 786BE5C7-544F-42FC-81EE-365D5BBD5EF7.jpeg
    786BE5C7-544F-42FC-81EE-365D5BBD5EF7.jpeg
    364.2 KB · Views: 14
  • 3EB96CA8-9AE4-432D-A5DE-2F371FC6F326.jpeg
    3EB96CA8-9AE4-432D-A5DE-2F371FC6F326.jpeg
    352.3 KB · Views: 13
  • 80A7FC1A-FD06-4DC0-B812-0E3F009A46F7.jpeg
    80A7FC1A-FD06-4DC0-B812-0E3F009A46F7.jpeg
    299.1 KB · Views: 20
2013....leaves didn't seem particularly lancelet and never noticed sickly yellowing, but prone to black spot from time to time.
Growth habit seemed to lend itself more towards a multi-stem look. Not upright and not at that size in the trunk. Bark seemed more plated than furrowed and of course the "bulbous bulging" along the immature stems and branching.
Great tree!
 
So just pulled the tree out of the pot, tons of ants! Literally were on my arms from just pulling it out. Wound a soap and vinegar treatment work? I can see them crawling into the soil. Also looks like ant larva.
 

Attachments

  • 984FAB82-BD80-46EC-BF1A-0B40F060E003.jpeg
    984FAB82-BD80-46EC-BF1A-0B40F060E003.jpeg
    313.6 KB · Views: 18
  • 26F16036-93FA-41E4-98F0-241C82849CC3.jpeg
    26F16036-93FA-41E4-98F0-241C82849CC3.jpeg
    336.1 KB · Views: 17
  • 98A3EF39-7B8F-45F8-831B-65D52A2718A1.jpeg
    98A3EF39-7B8F-45F8-831B-65D52A2718A1.jpeg
    217.7 KB · Views: 15
  • AF517920-6DFB-4C27-9DC8-28DB8343D1DF.jpeg
    AF517920-6DFB-4C27-9DC8-28DB8343D1DF.jpeg
    210.5 KB · Views: 16
So, regarding ferts and feed...you already have what looks like a handful of osmocote on the top soil. Time release, so the tree is getting a trickle of nutrients with every watering.

As others have said pop off the can and see if the tree is drowning. If the retailer watered within a few days of your purchase and then you watered the root ball could be sitting in puddles.
 
Beat me to it.
I do not think the ants are the reason for yellowing. DE will work, however you must apply to dry soil.
 
It is Diatomaceous Earth. They are ancient dried organisms ground down to micro particles. It’s an organic treatment for hard bodied insects. The ants contact the DE and kaput.
 
I personally don't believe DE works to kill anything.

It just sells it's hazard to us better, which sells more......masks! And that was then!

Anyway...

That root ball doesn't look terrible, bit not particularly good either.

It is possible to see ants that aren't farming aphids of they are homed in the soil.

In such quantities, I believe just the hormones left behind by walking ants can be harmful.

I'll bet that's your problem.

Sorce
 
I personally don't believe DE works to kill anything.

It just sells it's hazard to us better, which sells more......masks! And that was then!

Anyway...

That root ball doesn't look terrible, bit not particularly good either.

It is possible to see ants that aren't farming aphids of they are homed in the soil.

In such quantities, I believe just the hormones left behind by walking ants can be harmful.

I'll bet that's your problem.

Sorce
Thanks for the insight. I will keep monitoring, i am going to try the DE or a insecticidal soap. Honestly i would like to save the tree, i believe it is ultimately ok as it is growing new leaves, but just want to be cautious of it's current state. I can see the bonsai shop slacked on everything. I am a bit surprised by this, but well i purchased anyway. lol...
 
Back
Top Bottom