Balbs
Shohin
I thought about that, but wondered if it would slow down the primary goal of thickening the trunk. I don’t really want to slow it down any more.
Is it too late to repot trident?
- Thread starter Balbs
- Start date
-
- Tags
- repot repot help too late trident
I wrote it just as a tip, because many times I see people chop their trees without thinking about airlayering could provide them good material for next trees.
Balbs
Shohin
How long until I can fertilize?
SeanS
Omono
- Messages
- 1,559
- Reaction score
- 5,164
- USDA Zone
- 9b
I would have cut the remaining roots back to at least halfway from the edge of the board. Those thin long roots are going to become thick long roots by the next time you repot and you’ll need to cut them back then to eventually fit the tree into a bonsai pot one day. Might as well cut them back now and get them to start dividing into multiple fine roots each time you repot.
Balbs
Shohin
Yeah, I regret not doing that.
Adamski77
Shohin
I normally start after 4 weeks after repot... assuming I see regular/strong growth. Roots should be back on track to absorb.
Balbs
Shohin
Thank you!
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
On past experience I don't think that strong root will get out of hand. The others are growing strong and should keep up or exceed it if given the chance and you still have many years of grow and develop to take this tree from pole to bonsai. Still plenty of opportunity to work on the roots so I would not pull it out now.
By the look of all those young roots this tree had a hard root prune last year or the spring before. It already has a pretty good radial root system but I like to see even more ramification so I cut all those new roots around 1 or 2 cm from the older growth something like this:
I know the board thing is cool at the moment but in my experience, after a good root prune like you've done, there's no need for a board. Even planted straight in the ground you'd get very few down roots when the tree already has so many strong laterals. Any down roots that do develop can be removed at next transplant. Eventually the tree doesn't bother growing new down roots.
My potting mix contains fertiliser so I'm essentially fertilising from day 1. You'd need to be using something real strong to damage roots so I'm confident the wait x weeks is another myth. It works because there's always some nutrients in a potting soil and most trees can manage for a few weeks on stores anyway.
By the look of all those young roots this tree had a hard root prune last year or the spring before. It already has a pretty good radial root system but I like to see even more ramification so I cut all those new roots around 1 or 2 cm from the older growth something like this:
I know the board thing is cool at the moment but in my experience, after a good root prune like you've done, there's no need for a board. Even planted straight in the ground you'd get very few down roots when the tree already has so many strong laterals. Any down roots that do develop can be removed at next transplant. Eventually the tree doesn't bother growing new down roots.
My potting mix contains fertiliser so I'm essentially fertilising from day 1. You'd need to be using something real strong to damage roots so I'm confident the wait x weeks is another myth. It works because there's always some nutrients in a potting soil and most trees can manage for a few weeks on stores anyway.
Balbs
Shohin
I think it’s been three years, though I’d have to dig back in my photos, but you’re right I pruned it very hard at that point. That one really large root may have been all that was left, actually. Two seasons ago the tree grew really strongly and basically went from a pencil to what you see now. Last season I didn’t get the same growth, possibly because it was out of space in the flat. I’m thinking this will want to be repotted every two, not three, in this container. I don’t know how the board will effect that but it does take up a significant portion of the pit volume. I wonder if roots will grow beneath the board since it’s unlikely to get wet during watering.
Balbs
Shohin
So this thing started off strong and then in April we had a cold night, I put the tree in my greenhouse for protection and next day it was 95. I didn’t get to the tree in time and a lot of the buds and leaves scorched. The rest came out OK but have since been sort of droopy, like the pictures show. Should I do anything? Let it recover? Or is this something else unrelated? I do have one Japanese maple that has some similar stuff happening.
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,382
- Reaction score
- 31,565
- USDA Zone
- 6a
Yeah, it’ll will be fine.
Balbs
Shohin
Hi everyone! So this tree had a quiet season last year. Not a ton of new growth after the rough start. Would you all let it grow for a season unchecked or chop this year?
bonsaiwood
Mame
Treat it like a marathon. Let it run and grow strong for another season (or two), fertilize well, protect from extreme heat. Then style when you feel it has put out sufficient new growth to work with.
Looking forward to see what you do with this TM.
Looking forward to see what you do with this TM.
Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,382
- Reaction score
- 31,565
- USDA Zone
- 6a
Pics please
Balbs
Shohin
Better late than never!
I brushed back the soil a bit to look at the base. There’s one area where it looks like a root died and the bark has since flaked off. That started last fall. I wonder if the board caused some standing water?
Balbs
Shohin
Balbs
Shohin
If it helps, there were small orange-ish blisters on the trunk, though those seem to have gone away with the spray.
Balbs
Shohin
Bumping this thread for help.
Jrmcmich
Shohin
Do you think the roots are staying wet? Wonder if some root rot causing issues?
Balbs
Shohin
It had a root rot issue last summer. I had an automatic water system on while I was away and I guess it was too wet. I don’t think it’s staying too wet anymore, though. I’m concerned its verticillium wilt.
Similar threads
