Is Another Doomed?

[Apex37]

Every Japanese maple I own dies. I have had a 0-11 record with these trees. I actually decided I was done buying them till we move because I seemingly can't keep them alive no matter how hard I try. I purchased this tree last year and did a repot this year. Now I'm seeing signs of a bacterial or fungal infection. I sterilize all my tools with 91% alcohol before working on my trees, but here we are. In fact, I only see this issue with Japanese maples.

Is this one doomed as well? I had really good hopes for it. 3" base. Replanted on a board, put into a grow box, been exploding with growth, and then walk out to see this. I took my cut paste off to take a pic, btw.

 

[badatusernames]

I THINK that's just die-back from the cut - curious if others agree. With the growing shoots around it I would think at least the large one on the left would make it, but once the stub has died back you'll have to work it to make it flush of course.

Looks like a pretty fresh cut though so maybe it's something else if it's happened pretty rapidly - curious what others say. When was the cut made?

 

[Cadillactaste]

I think you are overthinking it.

If the tree looks healthy... its not uncommon for cuts to change in appearance in color. I would not even consider it anything to worry about.

 

[Apex37]

I THINK that's just die-back from the cut - curious if others agree. With the growing shoots around it I would think at least the large one on the left would make it, but once the stub has died back you'll have to work it to make it flush of course.

Looks like a pretty fresh cut though so maybe it's something else if it's happened pretty rapidly - curious what others say. When was the cut made?

Cut was made when I did the repot a month ago.

 

[Apex37]

I think you are overthinking it.

If the tree looks healthy... its not uncommon for cuts to change in appearance in color. I would not even consider it anything to worry about.

Very possible. I've just seen a similar thing before and it's killed off probably 3 of my maples. I'm really hoping it's not that.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Very possible. I've just seen a similar thing before and it's killed off probably 3 of my maples. I'm really hoping it's not that.

I get it... you've had bad experiences. But it's normal for heartwood to change color when it is exposed and bark isn't covering it.

Here is my Japanese maple... look at that unhealed scar. Yet the tree is healthy. It's different than say cutting into fresh heartwood and seeing black. Two different scenarios. Focus on what the tree is showing you. Healthy foliage is good...yes? Try to breathe a bit easier. Trust me... I was afraid of JM when I had one come in with V. Wilt...its the entire package...if a tree appears healthy. They tend to be so.

Hope this helps.

 

[Apex37]

I get it... you've had bad experiences. But it's normal for heartwood to change color when it is exposed and bark isn't covering it.

Here is my Japanese maple... look at that unhealed scar. Yet the tree is healthy. It's different than say cutting into fresh heartwood and seeing black. Two different scenarios. Focus on what the tree is showing you. Healthy foliage is good...yes? Try to breathe a bit easier. Trust me... I was afraid of JM when I had one come in with V. Wilt...its the entire package...if a tree appears healthy. They tend to be so.

Hope this helps. View attachment 590259View attachment 590260

Thank you! I'll keep an eye on it and update if things turn south. I appreciate the support.

 

[Cadillactaste]

It's heavy overcast here. Not the best images, lots of shadows... but I hope it helps. Had storms all day. A break in the storms for a few minutes. lol

 

[DeepSouth]

Did you not seal the cut? I always seal all cuts 1/8" or larger here. I also keep weaker trees in half-sun.

 

[Apex37]

Did you not seal the cut? I always seal all cuts 1/8" or larger here. I also keep weaker trees in half-sun.

Yes. Took it off to take pics.

 

[Dav4]

Normal/expected die back until proven otherwise. As long as the rest of the tree that wasn't pruned is green/growing well, I wouldn't lose any sleep over this.

Fwiw, and without seeing the whole tree in your picture, it looks like you gave it a serious chop, which is always risky, particularly in borderline climates like yours. Given your history with them, I might have gone a bit easier on the chop, but the deed is done. Provide good husbandry- water as needed, shade and wind protection as needed- and you'll hopefully be ok.

 

[Desert O'Piñon]

From the photos, this tree appears to be overall healthy. I've had no success with JM, though, so my thoughts have little value. I don't think they can handle my climate.

Question, as I'm very curious: for tree species that experience dieback after a cut, how far above the desired end of the branch should the cut be made? And how much variation in the amount of dieback is there between species?

 

[WIlliam_Butler_Yeets]

if it's still got green leaves growing, it's not down for the count yet, tbh I don't see anything in the photo that strikes me as an issue

 

[dbonsaiw]

To echo what others said, looks fine. The red circle in the pick is dieback and at least for now seems to have stopped at the next node. The green circle is just the color of the tree.

 

[Shibui]

Every Japanese maple I own dies. I have had a 0-11 record with these trees. I actually decided I was done buying them till we move because I seemingly can't keep them alive no matter how hard I try

Must be some sort of masochistic streak that keeps you going back. From the little I know of Texas, Japanese maple is not a great choice. They are borderline difficult for bonsai in most places but when conditions are less than desirable that becomes multiplied.
If you want to grow maples, I'd recommend trident maple. In my experience, they are hardier, easier to prune and shape and less susceptible to pests and diseases than Japanese maple.
There's also a whole range of other species that make great bonsai and should be much easier to manage in your area.

I understand the concern after multiple failures but agree with the others. I can't see anything unusual in the photos.
The black bark close to the chop is normal when you chop well above a node. There's no branches above that section to keep the bark alive and it will slowly die back till it reaches the node below where the smaller branches are growing. That's just something that happens to almost all trees. I'd normally chop a bit closer to an existing branch so there's less to die but sometimes a chop well above a node is the only option. In either case, the chop will usually need to be cut back at an angle to remove any dead section and improve the taper at the chop.
Wound sealer seems to speed up growth of cambium over wounds but is not absolutely necessary. I don't see any point putting wound seal on a stub that's only going to die back anyway. Save it to seal the final cut.

 

[Michael P]

Must be some sort of masochistic streak that keeps you going back. From the little I know of Texas, Japanese maple is not a great choice. They are borderline difficult for bonsai in most places but when conditions are less than desirable that becomes multiplied.
If you want to grow maples, I'd recommend trident maple. In my experience, they are hardier, easier to prune and shape and less susceptible to pests and diseases than Japanese maple.
There's also a whole range of other species that make great bonsai and should be much easier to manage in your area.

I understand the concern after multiple failures but agree with the others. I can't see anything unusual in the photos.
The black bark close to the chop is normal when you chop well above a node. There's no branches above that section to keep the bark alive and it will slowly die back till it reaches the node below where the smaller branches are growing. That's just something that happens to almost all trees. I'd normally chop a bit closer to an existing branch so there's less to die but sometimes a chop well above a node is the only option. In either case, the chop will usually need to be cut back at an angle to remove any dead section and improve the taper at the chop.
Wound sealer seems to speed up growth of cambium over wounds but is not absolutely necessary. I don't see any point putting wound seal on a stub that's only going to die back anyway. Save it to seal the final cut.

Truer words were never spoken! North Texas is a bad place for Japanese maples, both in pots and in the landscape. Yes it is possible to grow them here but with intensive care and frequent disastrous setbacks. Some of the most respected members of our club, people with 50 years of experience, gave up on them decades ago.

 

[Apex37]

Must be some sort of masochistic streak that keeps you going back. From the little I know of Texas, Japanese maple is not a great choice. They are borderline difficult for bonsai in most places but when conditions are less than desirable that becomes multiplied.
If you want to grow maples, I'd recommend trident maple. In my experience, they are hardier, easier to prune and shape and less susceptible to pests and diseases than Japanese maple.
There's also a whole range of other species that make great bonsai and should be much easier to manage in your area.

I understand the concern after multiple failures but agree with the others. I can't see anything unusual in the photos.
The black bark close to the chop is normal when you chop well above a node. There's no branches above that section to keep the bark alive and it will slowly die back till it reaches the node below where the smaller branches are growing. That's just something that happens to almost all trees. I'd normally chop a bit closer to an existing branch so there's less to die but sometimes a chop well above a node is the only option. In either case, the chop will usually need to be cut back at an angle to remove any dead section and improve the taper at the chop.
Wound sealer seems to speed up growth of cambium over wounds but is not absolutely necessary. I don't see any point putting wound seal on a stub that's only going to die back anyway. Save it to seal the final cut.

Truer words were never spoken! North Texas is a bad place for Japanese maples, both in pots and in the landscape. Yes it is possible to grow them here but with intensive care and frequent disastrous setbacks. Some of the most respected members of our club, people with 50 years of experience, gave up on them decades ago.

100% agree. Thankfully, I purchased most all of them early on in my bonsai journey as just cutting grown sticks in pots and have not lost anything that really "hurt".