Insects in Air Layer Roots

Cool. Didn't know anyone remembered what this stuff was all about.
It is a great idea.
I use to use it to fight fungus gnats. Popsicle stick duct taped to yellow index card smothered with tanglefoot. Way cheaper than the traps they sell. I’ve had the same tub for 20 years 😂
 
Nah that's just a "that's what she said".🤣

I don't believe packed tightly is a necessity, folks have proved it possible to do it loose.

Sorce
I’ll take it either way 😂
 
Its ok man....
You're a deadhead, so you're reputation is meaningless anyway.
Welcome aboard!
True story…I got pulled over when I was 17. When I asked why he pulled me over he said, “You looked too happy. Anyone that is that happy is up to no good”. If the thunder don’t get ya the lightning will…
 
True story…I got pulled over when I was 17. When I asked why he pulled me over he said, “You looked too happy. Anyone that is that happy is up to no good”. If the thunder don’t get ya the lightning will…
Dang!
In Jersey?
That's crazy....
I've been pulled over for complete BS before too, but not that!
 
This is the kind of damage I get on my J maples from Rolly Pollie's. They only seem to cause damage on J and trident maples, sometime they will ring bark a small branch. Hard to get rid of and seem to be in plague numbers, they love bonsai pots because they are always moist.IMG20211004205103.jpg The little devils are also good at mining potting mix out the bottom of pots.
 
I have lots of isopods of different species in my garden but never saw anything like that. Of course in Australia you have different species than we have in Europe.
 
This is the kind of damage I get on my J maples from Rolly Pollie's. They only seem to cause damage on J and trident maples, sometime they will ring bark a small branch. Hard to get rid of and seem to be in plague numbers, they love bonsai pots because they are always moist.View attachment 401320 The little devils are also good at mining potting mix out the bottom of pots.
Wow, thanks for sharing. I have tons in my back garden. I drop 30 yards of mulch every other year. It seems with the heavy mulch layer they are proliferating.
If you look at my pic, is it me, or does it look like there is a bite on the right side?
 

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Wow, thanks for sharing. I have tons in my back garden. I drop 30 yards of mulch every other year. It seems with the heavy mulch layer they are proliferating.
If you look at my pic, is it me, or does it look like there is a bite on the right side?
Could be, looks like how a strawberry gets eaten out.

Re layer: Some species of trees will make a lot of callus before throwing out roots. I'd wrap it up and give it some more time. If nothing happens start again in spring. Some trees can be tricky to layer.
 
Last Saturday, I inspected my air-layers and found fire-ants in all of them. It has been raining everyday for the last week and the ants are looking for any place dry enough to evacuate their nest. So I did what I have always done to my air-layers down here, I mix a few ounces of Bifenthrin and inject it into the layers. By Sunday afternoon, no more fire ants in any air layers.
 
I have the mother plant outside in the ground. My plan was to separate before first frost and move the cutting into a heated greenhouse. Unless it picks up steam, it doesn’t look like it will happen. They water so quick in water before leaf open in the spring, 2 weeks at max. Are you saying that if the plant survives outside normally, then the air layer should as well? I thought it would freeze solid and be a goner?

Yes, I leave air layers on hardy trees OUTSIDE, all winter. No heat. Yes, if the mother plant normally survives outside, the air layer can be left on the mother plant ALL WINTER, outside. No heat, no contraptions. It is really that simple.

When you do an air layer, first stage is to form callus. The callus has the same winter hardiness at the mother plant's trunks and branches.

Roots will form from the callus, when they form can be in late winter. Often there is a flush of root growth a few weeks before the mother plant leafs out in spring. If you are impatient with air layers, you will miss this opportunity.

Last tip: I have found soil in the air layer to have a much lower success rate to using long fiber sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss has several advantages. It holds a tremendous amount of water. The best "brands" of sphagnum moss to use are Chilean and New Zealand sourced long fiber sphagnum moss. The reason is that the species of sphagnum from NZ & Chile have a fairly high phenolic content. The phenol serves to slow decomposition and has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Sphagnum moss sourced from Wisconsin has the lowest phenolic content of source species tested. So if you can get Chilean origin moss, that is the best. Commonly sold for use as an orchid potting media. Check Orchids by Hausermann, Elmhurst IL. Their do mail order.

The reason you have isopods, and other pests in your air layer is that you are using "dirt". The fungi and bacteria in your "dirt" is attracting the isopods and other pests. If you need to do air layers in the future, try sphagnum, it will remain pest free much longer than "dirt".
 
Yes, I leave air layers on hardy trees OUTSIDE, all winter. No heat. Yes, if the mother plant normally survives outside, the air layer can be left on the mother plant ALL WINTER, outside. No heat, no contraptions. It is really that simple.

When you do an air layer, first stage is to form callus. The callus has the same winter hardiness at the mother plant's trunks and branches.

Roots will form from the callus, when they form can be in late winter. Often there is a flush of root growth a few weeks before the mother plant leafs out in spring. If you are impatient with air layers, you will miss this opportunity.

Last tip: I have found soil in the air layer to have a much lower success rate to using long fiber sphagnum moss. Sphagnum moss has several advantages. It holds a tremendous amount of water. The best "brands" of sphagnum moss to use are Chilean and New Zealand sourced long fiber sphagnum moss. The reason is that the species of sphagnum from NZ & Chile have a fairly high phenolic content. The phenol serves to slow decomposition and has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Sphagnum moss sourced from Wisconsin has the lowest phenolic content of source species tested. So if you can get Chilean origin moss, that is the best. Commonly sold for use as an orchid potting media. Check Orchids by Hausermann, Elmhurst IL. Their do mail order.

The reason you have isopods, and other pests in your air layer is that you are using "dirt". The fungi and bacteria in your "dirt" is attracting the isopods and other pests. If you need to do air layers in the future, try sphagnum, it will remain pest free much longer than "dirt".
Wow! Thank you for such a awesome response!
 
Could be, looks like how a strawberry gets eaten out.

Re layer: Some species of trees will make a lot of callus before throwing out roots. I'd wrap it up and give it some more time. If nothing happens start again in spring. Some trees can be tricky to layer.
It’s funny because I have a John’s elderberry that roots in a week in water. This is a black lace elderberry. I tried rooting in water in the spring and it failed. This is my second attempt to propagate this variety. It certainly seems stubborn .
 
Earwigs are a huge problem. They devour all new growth. They invade my air layers of they can.

They also have a knack for attacking sick trees. It's happened several times that the last gasps of life were devoured by earwigs, finishing the job.

Bastards.
 
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