How to tell when my substrate is in need of watering?

BPfeil

BPfeil

Yamadori
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Hey guys I was just wondering if there were any tricks to telling when my substrate is in need of water, as opposed to digging into the mix itself to check for moisture. Side note- I use Boon's mix which is akadama, lava rock, pumice, and charcoal. Thanks!
 
Stick your finger in it. Your finger is one of the best moisture meters around

If it's almost dry, water
If it's mostly wet, don't water

Some people keep wood chopsticks or dowels stuck in the pot. Look at it each day and when mostly dry, water; mostly wet, don't water

I use the same mix as you and I've learned after 6 years how often my trees need water in my location/yard based on the time of year and rain fall.

Right now, where I live, my trees get water every day, once a day in the morning for 15-20 minutes depending on which area of the yard. If we get more than half an inch of rain, late enough in the day, I skip a day of watering.
 
Water the plant/pot until water runs from the drainage holes. After it finishes or slows to a drip. Pick the pot up. Feel the weight? That is the weight of a just-watered pot. Over the next five hours or so, pick up the pot a few times. It will decrease in weight over that time. As it dries, it will weigh less and less and the surface soil should change color from darker to lighter colored. That color change may be subtle, but it will happen. Do this process for a week at least, you will begin to know from soil color and weight of the pot when the plant needs water. That is how a lot of more advanced bonsaistists know...It takes time, but it is a pretty accurate guide to watering.
 
rockm said:
Water the plant/pot until water runs from the drainage holes. After it finishes or slows to a drip. Pick the pot up. Feel the weight? That is the weight of a just-watered pot. Over the next five hours or so, pick up the pot a few times. It will decrease in weight over that time. As it dries, it will weigh less and less and the surface soil should change color from darker to lighter colored. That color change may be subtle, but it will happen. Do this process for a week at least, you will begin to know from soil color and weight of the pot when the plant needs water. That is how a lot of more advanced bonsaistists know...It takes time, but it is a pretty accurate guide to watering.
Click to expand...


Do you actually go around picking up each of your trees to tell if the need water? I can't imagine doing that
 
Paradox said:
Do you actually go around picking up each of your trees to tell if the need water? I can't imagine doing that
Click to expand...
If you're having trouble knowing when to water your trees it is a reliable method. Nope, don't have to lift them anymore. I sometimes tip them to the side if I'm still unsure from the topsoil color. Doing the lift thing taught me to look at soil color and corresponding weight that came with it. think "wax on wax off"

I've been watering for 25 years now and can tell just from soil color when something is drying out. Paying attention to the weather is also important a 92 degree day with a lot of humidity and trees won't dry out as quickly. Add in a 10mph breeze or a 25 mph wind and trees can dry out in a couple of hours...
 
It is easy to calibrate yourself in the spring when every species is pushing new growth. It needs water when the new growth droops/sags (i.e., looses turgidity). New growth is turgid = adequate water in the substrate. Once you are calibrated you should be able to judge the Goldilocks timing.

Generally, if your plant/tree doesn't loose turgidity in the heat of the day (roughly 3:00 to 5:00 pm), it won't need water until the following afternoon. This is because the demand for water is driven by the relative humidity.
 
Last edited:
0soyoung said:
It is easy to calibrate yourself in the spring when every species is pushing new growth. It needs water when the new growth droops/sags (i.e., looses turgidity). New growth is turgid = adequate water in the substrate.
Click to expand...

Kidding aside, Oso is right here. Certain species are better indicators than others. Vitex will completely droop when thirsty and immediately snap back when watered. They are like built in moisture meters. I can look out the window and see how things are doing for the most part.

I must say if you do that with a pyracantha, it is already a goner. Same with Leptospermum
 
Skewer all day for me!

But its really interesting seeing the different methods being used, I will try them out!
 
Paradox said:
Do you actually go around picking up each of your trees to tell if the need water? I can't imagine doing that
Click to expand...

After some years one can tell by experience when is needed. In free draining or inorganic substrate like pumice is nearly impossible to overH2O;). As long as container drains well:rolleyes:.
 
Potawatomi13 said:
After some years one can tell by experience when is needed. In free draining or inorganic substrate like pumice is nearly impossible to overH2O;). As long as container drains well:rolleyes:.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this point is the one I stick with.
My trees are in 100% inorganic DE (cat litter). I water them same time everyday, and if I have time, in the morning but mostly don't have time. I only water in the morning cos I feel less like they need water when I get home 11 hours later. Currently going through a heat wave, highs of 30-34c, humidity is high though at 89% (if weather app is to be believed), barely any wind.
The heat is drying my guys out quickly but I don't have to worry about too much water because of the inorganic mix.

I feel I can tell when one needs water compared to when it's only the top layer looks dry but doesn't necessarily need water (remember the top layer will go dry first but could be plenty still in the pot). However with 100% you can water anytime any way (with some common sense).
 
Modern substrates like pumice, turface, baked loam and similar look dry on the surface very quickly. I is impossible to just look at the color of the substrate and tell whether you have to water or not. You have to find other ways. The best is to look at the tree and not the substrate. Broadleaved trees will tell you very quickly when they are thirsty. Typically it is always the same trees that are thirsty before the rest. If you use well draining modern substrate you then water EVERYTHING. There is no need to water trees individually. Just water all your trees. It is almost impossible to over water but it well possible to underwater with modern substrates.
Since the literature is full of warnings to not over water. most folks water too little in general. Do not water to just make the surface look wet. Water thoroughly until the water flows out of the drainage holes. Besides the tree telling you there is the possibility of looking at weeds. If they start hanging it will not take long for the tree to also get thirsty.
With this modern way of watering it takes 40 minutes per day to water around 1,000 trees in my garden. Many would spend three to five hours on hot days. I do not water individual trees. I water with the big garden hose full power everything. It is lie watering a flower garden. You just water a section and not individual trees.
I know that many will doubt this. Come to see my trees. I have not seen a nursery yet where trees look more healthy.
 
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