How large before air layering?

I think if one wants to air layer they really have to consider the climate in their zone. But when it comes down to it, one should consider their window closed if they don't get it done by start of July so there's enough time to remove it from the mother tree when doing first flush air layerings. Doing it on older wood could take several seasons for roots to form. Timing is everything. You want the seperated air layerings some what started by fall in their own pots. By winter they should have enough roots to carry them over to spring
 
We have hit that several times and have had at least 7 or 8 days in the teens. That is normal where I live and extreme would be below zero.

The point here is that I would not subject your layers to the low 20s. I would consider low 20s on the extreme side as it relates to this.
 
I have found that the more growth one gets above the layer point, the better the results at the layer point.

Regards,
Martin
 
By the way, that's a good lookin Showa. Is it yours?
Yes, thank you. I am active in the Koi scene and show circuit. This Showa always did well, including Young Champion and Mature Champion wins. Now just chills in the pond. :) I went to a Koi show in Atlanta in 2011 and this was in conjunction with Japanfest were I saw my first 'real' bonsai, although I didn't appreciate what I was looking at.
IMG_4815.JPG
 
So, I'm kinda thinking no guts no glory. I won't get greedy and will only try maybe three or four 3/4"ish branches. I can also wire and prune some areas that I can revisit in a couple/few years. Gonna wait til first push hardens off as suggested.

Might as well try, nothing to lose really.

Thanks for the replies!
 
What is to keep those fresh new roots from freezing?
Bubble wrap the girdled section of the layer. The air bubbles should afford some insulation, but I'm not really sure how well it will protect under 20 degrees, couldn't hurt though.
 
Yes, thank you. I am active in the Koi scene and show circuit. This Showa always did well, including Young Champion and Mature Champion wins. Now just chills in the pond. :) I went to a Koi show in Atlanta in 2011 and this was in conjunction with Japanfest were I saw my first 'real' bonsai, although I didn't appreciate what I was looking at.
View attachment 282126

That white and black koi (male utsuri?) is developing a really beautiful pattern. What an amazing collection
 
I hope OP doesn't mind, but can I ask the converse of his question...How large of JM branch can be rooted as a cutting?
 
I hope OP doesn't mind, but can I ask the converse of his question...How large of JM branch can be rooted as a cutting?


FWIW I have layered a 6"+ trunk Japanese maple successfully obtaining roots pretty much all around the perimeter. It took a whole growing season but was able to separate it before fall.
 
FWIW I have layered a 6"+ trunk Japanese maple successfully obtaining roots pretty much all around the perimeter. It took a whole growing season but was able to separate it before fall.
Ah, thanks. OP was asking how small of a branch for layering. I flipped it around and was wondering how large of a branch for rooting a cutting. I have several Sharp's Pygmy branches in the 3/8" range which seem to be to small to layer and too big for cuttings, but you'd be the guy to ask. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Ah, thanks. OP was asking how small of a branch for layering. I flipped it around and was wondering how large of a branch for rooting a cutting. I have several Sharp's Pygmy branches in the 3/8" range which seem to be to small to layer and too big for cuttings, but you'd be the guy to ask. Sorry for the confusion.


Ah sorry. I misunderstood.
 
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And, even if exposed to extreme temps (very cold but less than is fatal to the mother tree), rooting starts anew as soon as the new foliage is hardened (i.e., phosynthesizing and producing abundant auxin).
Cut it off too soon and one is dealing with a cutting that must survive with limited to no capacity for water uptake.
Agree with 🐻👶
 
I would ground layer maples 1/4 inch. Some are at the present 2 inches since separation from their rootstock. I applied the technique to rough bark Japanese maples.
 
FWIW I have layered a 6"+ trunk Japanese maple successfully obtaining roots pretty much all around the perimeter. It took a whole growing season but was able to separate it before fall.
Was this a plain green JM or a cultivar?
 
FWIW I have layered a 6"+ trunk Japanese maple successfully obtaining roots pretty much all around the perimeter. It took a whole growing season but was able to separate it before fall.
Please tell me when you airlayer?
 
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