How large before air layering?

[Appliance Guy]

I was fortunate to be given many Japanese maples about six years ago. I am more fortunate that I didn't kill them. I really hadn't an interest in maples so I just let them grow in a kiddie pool for about the last five years, kinda just whacking away at them with little knowledge on proper techniques. I do not know the variety but I think they are all the same, but I might have one different because it has a different color in fall and tends to drop leaves a tad later (but it is also in the shadiest spot of the clump). In the past couple years I have been increasingly getting interested in maples, and I would like to have more to play with, so I would like to air layer.

1) What is the minimize size that would be recommended for air layering? I have many branches that are 1/2 - 3/4" thick so if possible I would like to try those.
2) If I were make three or four air layers from different branches off one truck would there be enough energy for this, or am I better off keeping it to one or two? Trees are healthy and growing vigorously.
3) I plan on using sphagnum moss and bag method with root hormone, as seen a million times before. I think I am am eqipped but will take suggestions.
4) I am thinking of making the air layers after the first push of growth has subsided, I would fertilize (I have yet to fertilize and didn't even fertilize last year.
5) Any suggestions welcome.

 

[Cable]

Good luck, all of the JM layers I've attempted have failed. I think 1/4" is what most people say in the minimum diameter to try a layer.

 

[Atom#28]

Following because I have a lot of the same questions.

 

[Appliance Guy]

Found a picture of them freshly planted in dec 2014. I had more, just glad I didn't kill em all. I'm warming up to maples... figure I should learn how to properly care for them before anything.

 

[Atom#28]

By the way, that's a good lookin Showa. Is it yours?

 

[0soyoung]

I think the stem, at the point of layering, needs to be at least 2 years old. It has been my experience that just scraping the bark on younger stems results in the tip dying as a consequence of the CODIT damage response (all xylem lumens are clogged). Compartmentalization occurs along rays and ring boundaries.
A first year stem is little more than pith. The first true (wood) ring is grown in the second season and, I do believe, presents the first boundary for compartmentalization of damage so that some xylem might remain unaffected and continue to carry water to the layer.

 

[BackyardBonsai]

I just wanted to add. Do it early in the season instead of late. I lost a couple Arakawas due to the layer got removed too early.

 

[0soyoung]

I just wanted to add. Do it early in the season instead of late. I lost a couple Arakawas due to the layer got removed too early.

Layers can always be overwintered on the mother tree.

 

[Johnnyd]

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Some good information on this thread.

 

[Pitoon]

I've had the greatest success on air layering the first flush once it has begin to harden off. You should get roots within 3-4 weeks, on normal green JM

 

[penumbra]

Layers can always be overwintered on the mother tree.

Are you sure about that? What is to keep those fresh new roots from freezing?

 

[MACH5]

Answers below in red.

I was fortunate to be given many Japanese maples about six years ago. I am more fortunate that I didn't kill them. I really hadn't an interest in maples so I just let them grow in a kiddie pool for about the last five years, kinda just whacking away at them with little knowledge on proper techniques. I do not know the variety but I think they are all the same, but I might have one different because it has a different color in fall and tends to drop leaves a tad later (but it is also in the shadiest spot of the clump). In the past couple years I have been increasingly getting interested in maples, and I would like to have more to play with, so I would like to air layer.

1) What is the minimize size that would be recommended for air layering? I have many branches that are 1/2 - 3/4" thick so if possible I would like to try those.
Perfect size! At these sizes it typically will take 6 to 8 weeks to obtain enough roots to separate the layers assuming you are air layering straight A. palmatum. Some other cultivars may take longer.
2) If I were make three or four air layers from different branches off one truck would there be enough energy for this, or am I better off keeping it to one or two? Trees are healthy
and growing vigorously.
Yes, no problem doing multiple layers.
3) I plan on using sphagnum moss and bag method with root hormone, as seen a million times before. I think I am am eqipped but will take suggestions.
Sphagnum moss works great. Clear plastic works fine. Black plastic as some people believe is not necessary or better.
4) I am thinking of making the air layers after the first push of growth has subsided, I would fertilize (I have yet to fertilize and didn't even fertilize last year.
You can air layer after the trees leaf out or even before at bud swell. I have tried both with equal success.
5) Any suggestions welcome.
View attachment 282051View attachment 282052View attachment 282053

 

[MACH5]

Are you sure about that? What is to keep those fresh new roots from freezing?

It is not a problem to overwinter air layers on the mother tree as long as they are not subjected to extreme temps.

 

[penumbra]

It is not a problem to overwinter air layers on the mother tree as long as they are not subjected to extreme temps.

Please define extreme temps and let me know how to predict them.

 

[0soyoung]

Are you sure about that? What is to keep those fresh new roots from freezing?

It is not a problem to overwinter air layers on the mother tree as long as they are not subjected to extreme temps.

And, even if exposed to extreme temps (very cold but less than is fatal to the mother tree), rooting starts anew as soon as the new foliage is hardened (i.e., phosynthesizing and producing abundant auxin).
Cut it off too soon and one is dealing with a cutting that must survive with limited to no capacity for water uptake.

 

[penumbra]

rooting starts anew as soon as the new foliage is hardened

I hope this is right. I have heard to the contrary and it kept me from layering late in the season. But if what you are saying is true, its a good thing.

 

[MACH5]

Please define extreme temps and let me know how to predict them.

Low 20s would be my answer. I have overwintered air layers of maples and beech with no problem.

 

[bwaynef]

There isn't really much here that warrants airlayering, unless its a technique you'd like to add to your bag and haven't before. Even then, I might suggest material that warrants it. As it is, you already have 3 (or was it 4) piece of material that you haven't done much with. In addition, there isn't much interest that can be layered off. You'd get a lot more out of the experiment if the end result was something you can be proud of.

Good luck.

 

[Stan Kengai]

My advice would be to start slow. Layering is not an exact science, but it does take some knowledge and experience to get high success rates, and I would venture to say that most people don't have great success the first try. I would start by trying 2 or 3 this year on different areas of the trunks and differnt thicknesses. In the meantime, you can start training other parts of the trees for future layers.

 

[penumbra]

Low 20s would be my answer.

We have hit that several times and have had at least 7 or 8 days in the teens. That is normal where I live and extreme would be below zero.