How important is shade for native full sun species?

[Salvarez]

I notice in peoples "set ups" there is always a spot built for shade or even a greenhouse with cover. Being in my first year I am sticking to plant species that I know can take full sun and heat in my area.

Being in south Louisiana should I be concerned about needing some shade at some point next year for full sun species? What is there to think about when it comes to shade? For example if I have a Crapemyrtle in a trainer pot, would it better serve the plant to move to shade during high heat events? All of this is with the premise that all watering is done correctly.


Thanks,

Sebastian

 

[Srt8madness]

Keep in mind, a tiny pot changes things, so a tree in the ground that can handle full sun, might require so shade during the hottest parts of the day. My crepes do fine in full sun but aren't in bonsai pots yet. They do require daily water even in potting soil if in all day sun.
Pines have been fine, bald cypress fine, junipers fine.

 

[Srt8madness]

Have a shade spot is helpful for recent repots, quarantined sick plants, and similar. Mainly for repots IMO.

 

[eugenev2]

I notice in peoples "set ups" there is always a spot built for shade or even a greenhouse with cover. Being in my first year I am sticking to plant species that I know can take full sun and heat in my area.

Being in south Louisiana should I be concerned about needing some shade at some point next year for full sun species? What is there to think about when it comes to shade? For example if I have a Crapemyrtle in a trainer pot, would it better serve the plant to move to shade during high heat events? All of this is with the premise that all watering is done correctly.


Thanks,

Sebastian

I would say it will depend, you will have to see how your trees react to full sun in a bonsai pot. As @Srt8madness mentioned, my pines and junipers are fine. But i have a senegalia galpinii which is a native African tree in the African sun that did not do so well, i have since then planted it in much deeper pot, as this is one thing people do locally do to mitigate it, as well as moving it to a shaded are in the afternoon. And it's doing much better, other trees like my Japanese maple is basically permanently under shade cloth as it is a big baby and cannot handle our sun

 

[rockm]

Complete shade can be a tool to help stressed plants.

Full sun species in the south can benefit from having only their pots shaded in the summer.

I have bald cypress, live oak and cedar elm. All get mostly full sun all summer here. On the hottest days (over 90) I wrap their pots in white towels in the morning. That shields the pots from the sun's direct rays and keeps them cool. Overheated roots are what you need to prevent. The exteriors of pots exposed to full sun in the summer can reach killing temps (like 130 F). That can raise internal root mass temps to killing level also, particularly if the string of hot days lasts and nighttime temps don't go below 75.

 

[Shibui]

I think it is less about how the species handles sun and much more about how your pots dry out in full sun.
Sun means the trees need more water to cool down. In the ground water is often in reasonable supply but in the restricted space of a small pot available water can run out before lunchtime leaving the tree to cope with hot sun with few resources to manage.
Sun needs to be balanced with water and it does not matter whether the tree is a full sun species or not. Conifers can cope with dry soil better than most broadleaf species so will usually do better in sun. Depending on your ability to apply water most broadleaf species do better with some afternoon shade in hotter climes.
Each grower will need to work out a balance that suits their microclimate and management schedule.

 

[HardBall]

As mentioned above, shade is often necessary for repotted trees. Even very vigorous, full-sun trees will need shade in the peak of summer when their roots have been reduced.

 

[Salvarez]

Thank you guys for the responses. I think water management is going to be one of my key challenges in learning how to bonsai.

I spoke to someone yesterday in my area. He told me he’s always had a hard time with Japanese maples. He suspects it might be the water? Now I’m really frustrated. Do you guys really think Louisiana tapwater could kill a Japanese maple?

 

[Tums]

Thank you guys for the responses. I think water management is going to be one of my key challenges in learning how to bonsai.

I spoke to someone yesterday in my area. He told me he’s always had a hard time with Japanese maples. He suspects it might be the water? Now I’m really frustrated. Do you guys really think Louisiana tapwater could kill a Japanese maple?

Have you looked up your utility's water quality report? Most municipal water is alkaline to avoid pipe corrosion, which isn't great for maples, but it could more or less of a problem depending on your local water quality.

 

[Salvarez]

Here is link to report https://www.brwater.com/images/pdfs/water_quality_reports/brwc_ccr.pdf Not sure if I can tell the aklinity from the report.

 

[Tums]

The only thing I can see is in the Water Source section:

The Baton Rouge Water Company operates 100 ground water wells completed in the various sands of the Southern Hills aquifer system which underlie our service area. Water from these sands is of excellent quality with a natural low hardness concentration and is not subject to surface water influences.

 

[Salvarez]

Maybe he just cant keep Jap Maples alive.... nothing to do with water! LOL

 

[AJL]

Why not invest in simple rain water barrels to collect and store water draining off your roof from the down pipes?( Faucets in American) That would be better for many trees such as Japanese maple as it has zero calcium salts and should be mildly acidic.