Hollywood Juniper - Bush to bonsai

[girv]

Hey everyone - wanted to provide an update on the tree as I did a lot of thinning in late winter but now realize the tree isn't in the best shape and trying to identify the issue. A lot of new buds were popping in early spring, but now the foliage has started to turn a pale green with white tips everywhere and new growth has stopped. I assumed it was getting overwatered as it has rained a ton here the past few months, but am now questioning this as I did the skewer test and the soil seems pretty dry even after watering it two days ago. I have been watering with a hose vs. submerging, so possibly the soil is not getting completely wet? It does seem very root bound but as the tree was healthy when I got it last fall I feel that most likely isn't the issue and I didn't want to repot and thin in the same year. As I don't want to further stress the tree out, any ideas on guidance?

 

[Japonicus]

I assumed it was getting overwatered as it has rained a ton here the past few months, but am now questioning this as I did the skewer test and the soil seems pretty dry even after watering it two days ago. I have been watering with a hose vs. submerging, so possibly the soil is not getting completely wet? It does seem very root bound but as the tree was healthy when I got it last fall I feel that most likely isn't the issue and I didn't want to repot and thin in the same year. As I don't want to further stress the tree out, any ideas on guidance?

The #1 issue most experience with bonsai is watering. I’ve never understood that, but when you’re saying
it is dry after watering it 2 days ago...welllllll I’m frequently...since late March, watering 2x/day.

Forget the garden hose. Just don’t even consider it. Use a watering can.
A hose is good for a sharp stream to knock the spider mites down a couple days
and generally a tool. Master watering before using a hose to water with and then, still use a can.

Ok, yes. Your description of the skewer test is classic root bound result if water does not pass
through the soil quickly. Attend to the roots. Lift from the pot, slice the roots scoring vertically
and plant it in the ground. Mulch. Water as needed. April, when growth is pushing, revisit the roots
cutting half the mass off horizontally. Tease out the remaining outer roots, and work in
bonsai soil to the roots using a pot or nursery can or grow box, or the ground again.
If you want the best chance of survival, right now the ground is your best friend.

Spring push then failure for the plant to follow through with that push also points to root issues.
It wants to grow but cannot. Also dry dead roots due to improper watering or whatever reason
will do likewise. It bears repeating, for the best chance of survival plant it in the ground.
The ground is your best friend at this time, especially being a typically poor time to repot.
The ground is your best friend.

 

[Japonicus]

Oh, and next time you thin, do it while the tree is growing.
You can wire and bend in early Winter, but wait a couple more months next time to thin.
When you repot in Spring, skip Spring and Summer thinning, but do clean under branches and dead debris.

 

[girv]

Got it and thank you for the feedback & info. Trying to figure out where in my yard I can plant as there isn't much for sunny spots available.

Anyone have feedback on the white tips? Dried out from over/under watering?

 

[Japonicus]

Got it and thank you for the feedback & info. Trying to figure out where in my yard I can plant as there isn't much for sunny spots available.

Anyone have feedback on the white tips? Dried out from over/under watering?

The foliage state of health is probably a direct reflection of the root health.
In hind sight, the nursery can should have been removed April-May and the roots tended to.
Now the reason I saying the ground is your best friend ATM, is because you can get away with
ground planting versus potting up even say a JM out of season. This is because the roots will remain
in better condition...longer between waterings. Wind will be less of an issue for any new fine feeder
roots that begin growing. I have faith it is still alive even though junipers can coast along looking
as if it is alive for months sometimes, even though it has entered an irreversible spiral plunge.
It’s possible now, but I think what green is there still looks good. I think it is imminent that you tend to it now though.

I don’t think it is mites, but...they will attack a weakened plant very easily, so spray Insecticidal soap on the foliage
to drip state, repeat in 10 days for protection unless you’ve already began a spray regimen.

Yes a sunny spot would be ideal, but just for this growing season I would look for a spot
with afternoon shade. Next Spring it should be fine to revisit the roots more aggressively
and leave the foliage alone till it has recovered well.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Chances are the white tips are from getting too dry between waterings, It can be caused by as little as missing ONE watering when needed. That 3 day weekend trip could have done it.

Watering too frequent and not often enough or alternating between too frequent and not often enough is the number one cause of root and foliage problems. The roots get in trouble, the foliage shows it.

Best water meter ever invented is the human finger. Dig your finger deep into the mix, if it feels damp, cool, wet, do not water, check again in 24 hours. If it feels barely moist, then it is time to water, if it feels dry, you should have watered yesterday. At the same time, heft the pot, pick it up and notice the weight. In no time you will calibrate your sense of weight for your tree. Pot is light, needs water, pot is heavy, doesn't need water. It is an acceptable short cut, so you don't have to get your finger dirty every single time you water. Electronic water meters are notorious for going faulty as the battery ages, and if you don't use your finger or weight the meter can cause disastrous errors.

Best way to water is to totally saturate the mix in the pot, let drain a few minutes then flood the pot with water a second time. You want no dry spots. I have a nice Dramm brand water breaker on my garden hose, it gives a soft spray so I can flood the pots with water without splashing soil out of the pots. Plunging the pot in a bucket of water is a very good way to water your trees too.

I hate using a watering can, yes the one recommended to you has a nice water breaking nozzle, but it is a pain in the bud once you have more than 10 trees to water.

 

[girv]

Thank you for all the advice. I think I'm still new to this I've read so much about overwatering junipers especially I went too far in the other direction.

 

[Japonicus]

Chances are the white tips are from getting too dry between waterings, It can be caused by as little as missing ONE watering when needed. That 3 day weekend trip could have done it.

Yup, one drying out will take a toll on the plant.
One drying out of a newly repotted tree can kill it. #1 reason I suggested the ground
at this time as well as keeping the roots cool in the heat.

Plunging the pot in a bucket of water is a very good way to water your trees too.
I hate using a watering can, yes the one recommended to you has a nice water breaking nozzle, but it is a pain in the bud once you have more than 10 trees to water.

I knew a "local" who watered his bonsai he sold on the side of the road (I bought one) by fully submerging the entire plant
foliage and all in a bucket of water for a couple minutes (till the bubbles stopped rising).
He used chicken grit on top of his soil (crushed granite).
One day I stopped by and asked his wife where he was, he had to stop his business due to the chemicals.
I can only guess one reason there.

As for the watering can...you Leo have many nice trees, and are quite knowledgeable on what makes plants tick.
I believe using a hose should be reserved for those who understand watering quite well, and are not using nozzles
that make it even more difficult. I know myself, watering landscape trees in drought, that it takes an understanding of how many
gallons pass through the nozzle in 60 seconds, and realize how easy it would be to be impatient, and move on to the next tree
gallons before it was time or not come back again and again.
Then there's the spread of the pattern and possible waste using a typical garden hose nozzle with
only the handle as a valve. Gets tricky. Your heft the pot is a huge huge positive way to become intimate with the needs of the
hydration of the tree. Each pot is different weight in my setup, from a couple pond baskets, to wooden grow boxes, nursery cans
plastic training pots, and pottery. I do the soil scratch test when I get home in the afternoon. In the mornings most everything gets
watered unless the previous afternoon was slow too dry. Those trees I have to keep a closer eye on, as usually they have 8822 DE
n them and or shaded.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

My dislike of the watering can is with as many trees as I have, the chore of having to refill, refill and refill again the watering can until I have watered everything would make the chore of watering laborious beyond my ability to make my fat old butt go threw daily, or most days of the week. Too inefficient time wise to water all the trees I have. (most are sticks in pots, not saying my whole collection is good trees) but still, a watering can is too much work.

 

[girv]

Fall update: The tree is much healthier at this point which is great since I would not be able to plant in the ground... planning on moving in the spring. Over the past few months I have been letting the tree recover after the massive foliage reduction from the spring and some wiring. I do think this is pretty root bound and should be repotted as soon as the tree is up for it, hopefully late winter/early spring but I realize I did quite a bit already. There really isn't soil in there, just roots. Other than that I think I have identified a few fronts I will consider over the winter. I want to graft on some tighter foliage but have not done a ton of research yet on the best approach.

I havent mastered the art of bonsai photos so with that combined with the hollywood foliage photos do not do a great job of capturing some of the branch options. Per usual, all feedback appreciated.


This is my preferred front for now. I dont like the lowest jin pointing straight at the viewer however.




Slightly rotated as another option


This was my original preferred front, with the right upper twin branch that has raffia to be jinned. If my other options this would be blocked by the front trunk

 

[sorce]

Slightly rotated is way better.

Sorce