Help Structural Pruning JBP

[p_anova]

Hello All,

Just picked up my first JBP "Mikawa" from Meehan's and wanted to get some ideas for the first structural pruning to develop the tree. I believe the correct time of year would be late fall here in Washington DC. There is a whorl at the second branch level, about 4 total that needs to be dropped down to 2 but I am not sure which ones to keep. Above that, there is a long stretch with no branches and a touch of inverse taper until a very thick branch near the top is reached. Should I cut everything above the second branch and is this safe for the tree? I have done no work to it yet, just water. Any help styling tree would greatly be appreciated.

 

[vbakatare]

sorry I can't help with the pruning. I have zero experience with pines. I personally like the position in the last photo, maybe rotate a few degrees counterclockwise to get the most of the nebari flare and that'll be your front? and maybe lift the left side by about 10% to try and make the movement no as straight?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Too early for styling, but planning is good. In the spring, I would make these cuts…just as the tree is coming out of dormancy. You might also consider repotting it into good soil, and securing it into a pot that offers structural support since you’ll be growing some long sacrifice branches. Raise the soil level a bit too so you show the swelling base, but not the running roots.

Get rid of problem areas now so you don’t spend years trying to style around them. This will look like a different tree in 2 years.

 

[sorce]

Welcome to Crazy!

I agree with BVF... except this hiding branch that seems to still leave 3 there. I'd keep the tippy top trunk extension for now, so you have more health in this beginning stage, and the option of keeping it to build trunk for x years. Cutting that thick back branch in spring with the others.



Sorce

 

[p_anova]

Welcome to Crazy!

I agree with BVF... except this hiding branch that seems to still leave 3 there. I'd keep the tippy top trunk extension for now, so you have more health in this beginning stage, and the option of keeping it to build trunk for x years. Cutting that thick back branch in spring with the others.

View attachment 395242

Sorce

Thank you all for the advice.. I like the idea of keeping the long top branch for now to help with the recovery. After making the structural cuts in the spring, is it OK to repot as well? Did not want to do too much in one season and weaken the tree too much. If it is OK to repot, should I remove only half of the root ball from the bottom to start?

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Tree was not cheap so wanted to take my time with it.

 

[sorce]

I think if that is a legit working "root pruner bag", you have the benefit of approaching it later, without as much problem root mass that would need to be cut of as in a nursery pot.

Too though, if it has already been in there long enough to create a good root mass, you may have no problem repotting it whenever.

If it is a legit root pruner and you have a good matte of feeders, I'd not worry about repotting at all. Take time to learn the tree. Observe the roots.
Study some.

Sorce

 

[p_anova]

I think if that is a legit working "root pruner bag", you have the benefit of approaching it later, without as much problem root mass that would need to be cut of as in a nursery pot.

Too though, if it has already been in there long enough to create a good root mass, you may have no problem repotting it whenever.

If it is a legit root pruner and you have a good matte of feeders, I'd not worry about repotting at all. Take time to learn the tree. Observe the roots.
Study some.

Sorce

Understood. I was hoping to skip repotting altogether until I was ready to move into refinement. Appreciate the sage advice.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Understood. I was hoping to skip repotting altogether until I was ready to move into refinement. Appreciate the sage advice.

Always get the roots right first. Build a tree from the bottom-up. Get it into a good pot and proper soil next spring, then you can advance the tree because it will be strong.

 

[p_anova]

Always get the roots right first. Build a tree from the bottom-up. Get it into a good pot and proper soil next spring, then you can advance the tree because it will be strong.

When you say good pot, do you mean a proper bonsai pot or more of a growing pot (wide, shallow, etc).

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

When you say good pot, do you mean a proper bonsai pot or more of a growing pot (wide, shallow, etc).

Growing pot, something with structure so the roots can establish themselves. Not too big, but not flimsy.

 

[p_anova]

Just an update. I did the repot early spring and got it into some good bonsai soil. Left all the foliage on to help with recovery. Will probably start fertilizing in May (4 weeks after repot) and see what happens. Maybe try an air layer next year in Spring.

 

[namnhi]

Just an update. I did the repot early spring and got it into some good bonsai soil. Left all the foliage on to help with recovery. Will probably start fertilizing in May (4 weeks after repot) and see what happens. Maybe try an air layer next year in Spring.

You can throw in some fertilizers now as it is already growing. No need to wait for 4 weeks after repot. I see first branch is a bit high so this is going to be a fairly large tree.

 

[p_anova]

You can throw in some fertilizers now as it is already growing. No need to wait for 4 weeks after repot. I see first branch is a bit high so this is going to be a fairly large tree.

I think so. Have a ton of large bonsai pots that need filling!

 

[Potawatomi13]

Left all the foliage on

Some branches better kept/used, seem to be missing. Bottom branch, 1st back branch good, 1st front branch good but where is upward future trunk branch growing from front branch? Trunk above whorl branches is straight long bare area to use as sacrifice; upward branch cut off was needed.

 

[p_anova]

Some branches better kept/used, seem to be missing. Bottom branch, 1st back branch good, 1st front branch good but where is upward future trunk branch growing from front branch? Trunk above whorl branches is straight long bare area to use as sacrifice; upward branch cut off was needed.

So the red line is the eventual chop which I did not perform since I just did the repot. Are you saying that I needed a branch where the green line is?

 

[casun]

Side note: this tree looks pretty unhealthy, like it might have needle cast… or maybe I’m seeing things since I’m dealing with JBP that has it.

 

[p_anova]

Side note: this tree looks pretty unhealthy, like it might have needle cast… or maybe I’m seeing things since I’m dealing with JBP that has it.

Got a good fungicide you could recommend?

 

[casun]

Got a good fungicide you could recommend?

This was a recommendation I found in another thread: “Alternate spraying with copper fungicide and Daconil. Also, treat the soil with Bonide Infuse Granular Fungicide.”

For the copper fungicide I bought Bonide 811 Copper 4E. My experience with these products is measured in hours and days, but the recommendation came from someone who has a lot of experience.

 

[p_anova]

I am Groot!