It is typically more of a refinement technique...so that means your trunk and primary branches are already where you want them.
Hedge Pruning a Trident Maple
- Thread starter BonsaiMatt
- Start date
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
I’m considering filing the wounds with epoxy and trying to get them healed. But then again, I kinda enjoy them and they add to the naturalistic feel on this tree.
What do people think? Fill them in or leave them as uro?
shohin_branches
Chumono
I personally wouldn't use epoxy. Just use a sharp knife to clean up and re-open the scars and cover with cutpaste so the tree can heal over it.
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
I would need to fill them with epoxy to have any hope of healing over. I carved them out with a dremel a few years ago, so they are pretty deep hollows (see post #13).
ForrestW
Shohin
Just my taste, -- on this particular tree I would leave them.
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
I would keep the hollows. It looks like you used ink in them in the first images, which im not keen on, it looks contrived, but it looks to have lightened up in the photos after. In the past where I used ink, ive always ended up carving out the stain and burning it instead with a pen torch.
But I suppose youre now going to show us the tree a few years on, with the scars healed over right?
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
My hedge pruners are getting itchy.
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
Instead of another year of hedging, I decided it was time to do some refinement on this tree.
Over the weekend I partially defoliated, wired and trimmed this tree. Some lower branches were allowed to keep their leaves, and were left longer than they will be eventually.
Over the weekend I partially defoliated, wired and trimmed this tree. Some lower branches were allowed to keep their leaves, and were left longer than they will be eventually.
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Sounds like youre having a lot of fun, with the combining of different methods and the tree is rewarding you. Looks healthy
To create the illusion of perspective that we want in bonsai, you have to go through and make sure the internodes get smaller with each node, which doesn't seem to be the case with the hedge technique. That is why some trees feel like a bush, because the scale and perspective is lost. Now that your tree is defoliated, you will need to restart many branches wherever the internode length is reversed. These hard cut backs may feel like a set back, they will be a good thing because they will create even more backbudding and will make more taper and you will have a higher quality tree.
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
Which branches are you referring to?
I will be cutting back the lower branches eventually once they gain some vigor, they have been intentionally left alone to elongate this year.
Anything over a thumbnail in length should not be in the outer canopy. This is the classic approach, mind you, to maximize that forced perspective. If your goal is to step back and have a big full canopy then hedge away.
The classic approach looks like this:
I picked an older photo for clarity but anywhere the node stays the same length or lengthens
The classic approach looks like this:
I picked an older photo for clarity but anywhere the node stays the same length or lengthens
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
There are many methods we can use to develop trees, I don’t always use the hedge pruning method, but it’s fun to experiment, so I’m trying it on this tree.
I remember drooling over Walter’s trees online 15-20 years ago. Back then I really wanted to try his methods, but I was not in a position to do so. I know hedge pruning has gone out of style these days, but sometimes it’s worth it to try things yourself. I think this tree is a good test subject to try to build a ‘Walter’ style tree and live my bonsai dreams from 20 years ago
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
I appreciate you taking the time to make those virts to explain your point. I agree with the 'rule of thumb'—anything over a thumbnail in length looks out of proportion in the outer canopy. Easier said than done however …
This particular trident is extremely vigorous, and with trees like this, it's beneficial to leave a few nodes to cut back to. In my experience, when you prune aggressively during strong spring growth, vigorous tridents respond by pushing out another round of elongated internodes, often exceeding 2 inches in length. This continuous cycle prevents you from achieving compact, controlled growth. When I leave several nodes on each shoot, I get progressively weaker growth further back along the branch.
This approach is the essence of the hedge pruning method as I understand it—where rather than cutting back immediately to final interior branches (as it seems you are recommending), you allow the stronger outer shoots to grow and then prune them back over time. This ensures that the weaker inner growth, which will eventually be cut back to, is allowed to develop. These inner nodes will ultimately form the final structure of the tree, leading to a more compact and well-proportioned canopy.
Will it work out? Only time will tell!
Are you getting buds to pop between nodes? My only point is when you eventually prune back to create a proportioned canopy you will have to go back many segments to regain taper/node scaling
Typically you cut them back again and again, eventually the total ramification and slowness of the tree enables small nodes, which takes a few years. That's why if you are ok with your final canopy you can start this process sooner than later. Its a bridge we all have to cross eventually to show the tree.
BonsaiMatt
Shohin
To each his own. I’m not a fan of sumo-tapered branches and a tiny canopy for this tree. Going for more of a spreading naturalistic look for this one. Maybe my taste will change in the future, we’ll see. I appreciate your input.
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