Grafting Mugo Pine

[Nishant]

Hello Friends,

I live in London and have a nice Mugo Pine Bonsai. However I am concerned that some of its branches are largely leafless and therefore was thinking of grafting new buds in clear and leggy parts of the branches. My question is
(1) What is the typical success rate of Graft in Pine? Are Pines difficult with Graft, just like with Air Layering?
(2) I have another Mugo pine, but a different species and this plant has several buds/tips that I can use as Scion. Will grafting a different species of Mugo pine be more challenging.?
(3) When is the best time to do the Grafting?

Thanks for your responses.

 

[Jurriemr2]

They can Bud back Bud on old wood. Don't think you need to graft.Reed the Mugo train Thread.

 

[Nishant]

Jurriemer, I have read about this that Mugo can bud back on old wood but there is no certainty in that. I was thinking of Grafting as last resort and that I might as well try this season to get some experience. I really love this plant and don't want to see it become a leggy one.

 

[sorce]

pics!

Sorce

 

[0soyoung]

Jurriemer, I have read about this thecat Mugo can bud back on old wood but there is no certainty in that. I was thinking of Grafting as last resort and that I might as well try this season to get some experience. I really love this plant and don't want to see it become a leggy one.

So, there is really nothing to loose by trying to graft. It is an art requiring lots of practice, though quite simple to do, in principle. I think you will want to study up and try side/veneer grafting. Give it a shot. You'll just cut off the tip of a strong branch to make the scion.

If it doesn't work (and you are likely to fail on your first attempts) you can always wait for the tree to pop buds close to the trunk and grow a new branch. Since that will take several years, you may as well try again the following season. Maybe also try it in the fashion of a 'bud graft', using a scion as a 'bud'. This is basically the technique for grafting on a big trunk.

Please, do try and try again. It is a very valuable skill to learn. You've got a perfect subject. I put off grafting far too long, myself.

As I recall, the area area around London is a USDA zone 8 climate like mine. The best times to graft, here are around October/November and in early spring before there's a lot of sap running, February/March. It would make sense to do it in the winter too, but 'my sources' say to not make grafts in freezing temps. The key to all grafting is matching the scion's cambium to the stock's cambium regardless of how you do it.

Anything else I can say to encourage you to try, try, try, @Nishant ?

 

[Nishant]

Thanks Osoyoung for encouragement. I intend to this in second week of Feb, hopefully when there wont be anymore frost.

Do you know which kind of grafting has better success rate. Just wondering why Grafting should be done when there no sap running? I am sure there is some science behind it?

The picture of the plant is attached.This is the only picture I have. It does not show the leggy branches though.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Some places can be cut back to compact first. Also can grow bigger tree where current spaces become of no matter. Good you have no branch whorl bulges in trunk.

 

[petegreg]

(2) I have another Mugo pine, but a different species and this plant has several buds/tips that I can use as Scion. Will grafting a different species of Mugo pine be more challenging.?

That's a nice aged little tree. If you want to graft I'd use only scions from the same tree. Do not use different cultivars, please, it would be visible forever (needle difference).

 

[sorce]

only scions from the same tree.

Should also help....

Do you know which kind of grafting has better success rate

Which...I think, each person's answer will be...whichever they are personally better at!

I have never saught grafting info, but I have caught the Ryan Neil Bud Grafting flick twice, and it is the best info on grafting I've ever stumbled on.

Just for a confidence boost...

I put some cuttings the size of larger bud graft scions in yhe ground last year....and thet remained green most of the year...
Properly grafted, they should easily stay viable and take.

I think bud grafting is much less intrusive, less future scarring should they not take.

The tree looks Soooooo healthy!

Seems you could either cut back and get buds....or....graft successful with all that sap flow!

That said...don't experiment with a hard cut back on a branch that may absolutely need a graft on...graft it with all that sap run for better success.....

But...my Mugo theory says, if you prune it, hard in winter, that is when it will bud on needleless wood.

While summer, gives you the explosion of back buds just behind the cut.

So....if there is a good candidate for a safe heavy cut, maybe a Thick branch that could use a slow down....that will still have green if you hit it hard....

I would sure try, since Natural is better IMO.

Really impressed with the vibrance of that tree!

Love the pot!

And the watering container if it is one!

Sorce

 

[0soyoung]

Do you know which kind of grafting has better success rate. Just wondering why Grafting should be done when there no sap running? I am sure there is some science behind it?

First, the reason for 'when no sap is running' is that the scion is so well lubricated that it possible out like a watermelon seed in trying to secure it, plus the mess. With bud grafting one lifts the bark to exposed the cambium atop the wood. This is much easier to do when the sap is running. I've only tried this on maples so far, myself. I suspect it has the same oozy sticky slick mess trouble when the sap is running in pines - I'll be finding out for myself on the coming months.

Approach and thread grafting are analogous to layering on that the scion is supported by its own roots during the process. Side/veneer and bud grafting is analogous to rooting cuttings and so great care must be taken to keep the Scion from desiccating in the process. The variants are there because they solve certain practical problems that arise in different circumstances.

 

[0soyoung]

Egad, so many typos ^. Maybe it is decipherable - ran out of exit time

 

[Vance Wood]

I have never found grafting to be necessary on a Mugo,------besides I'm too lazy. Grafts tend to take a couple of years to gain strength and if I am looking to work on a tree waiting on a graft does not fall into my list of favorite techniques.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks Osoyoung for encouragement. I intend to this in second week of Feb, hopefully when there wont be anymore frost.

Do you know which kind of grafting has better success rate. Just wondering why Grafting should be done when there no sap running? I am sure there is some science behind it?

The picture of the plant is attached.This is the only picture I have. It does not show the leggy branches though. View attachment 173656

The sap can interfere with the cambium union, putting a barrier between the two cambium. The best time is just as the tree is coming out of dormancy. it does make a difference if you can complete the graft quickly so preparation, doing things in the right order and practise is important to successs level. Scion veneer grafting would be my choice in this instance.

The tree does look pretty healthy, i would try fertilizer, and cutback to create new buds in the interior. Ideally for the next three or four years i would situate it in a grow box for this stage of further development.
Mugho's are great trees for bud back when properly cared for.

 

[Nishant]

Thanks All for the suggestions. After reading the replies, I understood that Mugo can bud back. That's a sort of relief to know. Will try cut back only as last resort.

I dread at the idea of snipping away tip for scion, let alone cutting back hard. Its because I love the plant so much and am really afraid of losing it. I got it from someone last year. This summer it was attacked by green colored powdery stuff ( fungi, algae etc ), which was causing the needles to drop. However I cleaned every single needle with water and tissue paper and that stopped further loss of needles.