Garage To Bonsai Workshop Transformation! Need Your Wisdom!

chicago1980

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Garage → Bonsai Workshop Transformation! Need Your Wisdom! 🌲🔧

Hey everyone,

I’m starting a fun project and could really use the collective wisdom of this community. I’m converting my garage into a dedicated bonsai workshop, and before I get too deep into planning, I’d love to hear from people who have already set up indoor or garage workspaces.

I’m trying to understand what actually works in real day-to-day use, so any experience is helpful — big or small.

Here’s what I’m hoping to learn:

1. How do you currently use your garage or indoor space for bonsai?
Potting, soil mixing, wiring, winter work, tool storage, carving, etc.

2. What parts of your setup ended up being the most valuable?
Lighting, benches, soil storage, tool racks, heaters, sinks, flooring — anything that made a real difference.

3. Any mistakes or “I wish I knew this earlier” lessons?
Ventilation, dust, moisture, outlets, insulation gaps, workspace layout issues, whatever comes to mind.

4. Upgrades you added later that you now consider essential?
(I'm trying to plan ahead so I don’t miss the obvious things.)

5. If you were building your dream bonsai workspace from scratch, what would you prioritize first?

Photos or examples would be fantastic if you’re willing to share.

Thanks in advance — I’m really excited about this project, and hearing from people who’ve already walked this path will help me design something functional and enjoyable.
 
At our last house, my trees were right outside the basement door, leading to my office/bonsai workshop and it was really easy to grab a tree and bring it in to work on and photograph. Built a great display bench with black background and a pulldown projector screen, with shelving below to store stands and jitta boards. I also had a workbench and rolling tool cabinet to hold tools and wire. Soil, chemicals, repotting table and big pots in the garage. Logistically, it was ideal, but the back yard was not a great environment because it got strong sun until 2:00 PM and then everything was in the shade of the house. Harsh for d-trees, and not enough direct sun for evergreens.

In the new house, my outdoor display area is at one side of the back yard and my workshop is in the basement on the opposite side of the house, so I find myself working on trees where they are, and photographing them less in the studio. I may move my display area to the other side of the back yard so they’re closer to the studio, but I’ll still have stairs…unless I can convince my wife to let me convert the sunroom…

To do again, workshop close to the trees, plenty of light inside to work by, plenty of shelving, a good tokonoma to photograph in. Possibly an outdoor area good for working on trees and photographing them.
 
At our last house, my trees were right outside the basement door, leading to my office/bonsai workshop and it was really easy to grab a tree and bring it in to work on and photograph. Built a great display bench with black background and a pulldown projector screen, with shelving below to store stands and jitta boards. I also had a workbench and rolling tool cabinet to hold tools and wire. Soil, chemicals, repotting table and big pots in the garage. Logistically, it was ideal, but the back yard was not a great environment because it got strong sun until 2:00 PM and then everything was in the shade of the house. Harsh for d-trees, and not enough direct sun for evergreens.

In the new house, my outdoor display area is at one side of the back yard and my workshop is in the basement on the opposite side of the house, so I find myself working on trees where they are, and photographing them less in the studio. I may move my display area to the other side of the back yard so they’re closer to the studio, but I’ll still have stairs…unless I can convince my wife to let me convert the sunroom…

To do again, workshop close to the trees, plenty of light inside to work by, plenty of shelving, a good tokonoma to photograph in. Possibly an outdoor area good for working on trees and photographing them.
I agree with Brian on the lighting. You will need more than you think to do detailed level work
 
Our winter workshop for propagation, winter work, wiring, pruning, potting etc and the hands on part of our classes is in a garage. Wish it were a dedicated room out back, but that’s not possible.

It has ten 4’ long led in the overhead of the garage. It also has five led propagation lights above two 6’ propagation shelves off the window. We use two Milk house heaters to heat the place. SS Deep sink in the mud room.

On site late spring through late fall work is done in the lower pavilion tented area off the display area.

If I were to design my own (with no classes) it would be about 400 sq ft with similar lighting and good heat/controls and ventilation. Also windows and skylights for natural lighting. Direct access to display area,

Propagation shelves as above. Many shelves for pots, media etc. a deep sink washing area with about 10-12’ counter space and a photo area. Proper rotating “barbers” station x 2 (for best half), a rolling tool/wire caddy, a really good rotating chair with back support and a hydraulic lift .

Also good WiFi and AV set up.

What a dream shop!

Cheers
DSD sends
 
I'm average sized for my country but considered tall for world wide standards, a good table makes all the difference.
I train my lower back but after two hours of wiring it starts to hurt.
A table that's adjustable and has enough flat surface to do everything and have space for tools and workstuff, that's my number one wish right now.

Lights come second. I got a USB powered ring light with adjustable feet, that I can hook up to a powerbank. General influencer thing, but it works like a charm. Was 11 euros at the dollarstore.

On ebay I found plastic sheets that have corners with pop/click buttons, so they can fold up making a tray. Waterproof, edges stand up about an inch and a half in height. They're easily folded up and I can just thrash the contents in the compost bin and store the sheet in a drawer. No need for sweeping, and during repotting it keeps most dirt contained. Saves me about three hours of vacuuming and sweeping each year.

Currently I have three shelves and a ground surface. Soil and dirt are in plastic containers on the floor, tools are one shelve above that, pots are another shelve up. Wire is on the highest shelf.
If I drop wire, it's light enough to not hurt pots.
If I drop a pot, that's bad from all shelves.
If I drop a tool, it doesn't land on pots.
If I drop the soil, it's on the floor.
I store my wire away from tools and pots because of the snagging hazard.
My chemicals and liquids are in a PP5 container with edges high enough to contain all the contents in case of a leak.

No cables on the floors, no low edges to hit a shin or knee on.
Wire racks look cool until you put a tree on it and a piece of wire snags your jeans pocket, yanking the whole thing to the ground. Coil goes on the table, or clipped right from the shelf.

And heat. I work a lot on conifers, mostly actually. So fall, winter and early spring are the times I wire them. Cold fingers and prickly foliage are a painful combination because hot water worsens the effects of juniper and spruce irritation. Working in a nicely heated area makes a lot of difference.

I used to be a big fan of keeping materials close, but walking a couple feet to get something will tell you how the joints and muscles are faring. Over-exertion is the main cause of long term problems and getting up and grabbing something is a good way to sense it before it becomes a six months physical therapy bill. Being too comfortable can be a bad thing.

Good luck!
 
Occasionally I go on the local buy nothing page to get empty cat litter bins for substrate components. Next step is to build a rack so they all sit at an angle and I don't have to re-stack them to get in the bins at the bottom. It's way better than having a bunch of half-used bags laying around on the floor. Painters tape makes changing labels much easier.
20251013_123004.jpg

Also anti-fatigue mats if you have a standing potting bench.
 
If you’re not already following this post here take a spin through it. Markyscott is killing it for “go-to” bonsai workshop ideas and implementing them.
 
Bins bins bins. The kind where the lid has a center hinge so you don't have to remove the lid to get at the soil stored inside, just flip the half lid up. A display/photography area like @Brian Van Fleet had is a must, photographing trees is a large part of how you can see the trees flaws, and fix them. Heat, light, cooling and water are all things that will help you use the area to the fullest.
 
For lighting I would like to recommend a direct-wired multi-LED fixture like this one that I have: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...Lumens-5000K-Daylight-HLF-HD08a-200/322814532

Super bright, natural light that is multi-source so there are no shadows. It is like working in diffuse natural sunlight.

Don't forget about trash disposal! You will generate a lot of trimmings, and beer bottles.
 
I have a large walk-out basement area with double doors that lead directly to my bonsai shelves. I like having access to the heat in the winter, or the A/C in the summer. Some of the features:

Plenty of shelving for pots / tools / chemicals.
Three garbage cans on wheels that are full of soil components. Space for other soil components on shelves or on the floor.
Plenty of bright LED shop lighting - I used these lights that you can adjust brightness and color temp - as well as angle some of the light elements (if you want)
Two garbage "cans" - one for garbage, one for green waste.
Work station that consists of board across top of garbage can (to collect additional green waste). Garbage can is on wheels to facilitate my emptying it outside.
Comfortable work stool with adjustable height.
Dog-washing station that doubles as tree watering / repotting / handwashing station.
 
I work outdoors in the garden until our six month, rainy season. Then, I work in a small greenhouse. If I were able to change anything about my garden, greenhouse and work areas, I'd prioritize everything being on a level surface as it would allow some sort of mechanical transport of trees to a work area. Second on my wish list would be a flat, vertical surface to make it easy and almost without thought to take pictures without a distracting background. (I'm terrible about recording the development of my trees and am sure much of it is due to the effort required for me to take decent pictures.)
 
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