Fix this reverse taper?

When you say surgical, you mean sterile right? Or are you referring to technique?

When I said it...I meant whatever BVF meant.

I'm still figuring out good cuts, and not on maples yet!

That cut....way too big for me!

Sorce
 
I reckon both.

Or like
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Sorce
 
I do not agree with doing it in the beginning of the growing season. On a maple it is better to do it in the fall, unless there is freezing danger and snow /winter problems. Doing it now will result in large lips of callus tissue and will look like....err.... lady parts. Doing it in the fall will allow it to compartmentalize and slow down the need for immediate repair. If this is a suitable transition for you then cut it, otherwise I might seek out a better way to fix this tree. No offence to Brian, he has great trees and knows what he is doing. The picture he erased looks great, but that's not what it will look like. I am showing you what it will look like, so choose wisely.

DSC_000100016.JPG
 
My first impression, "wow, that's simple and stunning and... all it needs is to grow back out with the ramification", (and yes, I'm somewhat aware of time/years involvement, yet not at all totally, and "simple" ain't always simple).
My question because I'm trying to learn, now that I'm back on another day looking at Brian's new rendition and pondering my own posible stink'n think'n, would any of the smaller branches at the first cluster be saved and wired "horizontal" (are they already too stiff) to be the start of low branches or would they be whacked along with all else in that region???, essentially starting over with this new stalk.
 
I do not agree with doing it in the beginning of the growing season. On a maple it is better to do it in the fall, unless there is freezing danger and snow /winter problems. Doing it now will result in large lips of callus tissue and will look like....err.... lady parts. Doing it in the fall will allow it to compartmentalize and slow down the need for immediate repair. If this is a suitable transition for you then cut it, otherwise I might seek out a better way to fix this tree. No offence to Brian, he has great trees and knows what he is doing. The picture he erased looks great, but that's not what it will look like. I am showing you what it will look like, so choose wisely.
Seeing as it's been established that it doesn't actually roll, it's new tissue, won't it just get big lips again the following season anyways if not in a warm climate?
If branches help heal it faster wouldn't that also depend on how many branches and where there are? Or am i misunderstanding how calluses heal?
 
My first impression, "wow, that's simple and stunning and... all it needs is to grow back out with the ramification", (and yes, I'm somewhat aware of time/years involvement, yet not at all totally, and "simple" ain't always simple).
My question because I'm trying to learn, now that I'm back on another day looking at Brian's new rendition and pondering my own posible stink'n think'n, would any of the smaller branches at the first cluster be saved and wired "horizontal" (are they already too stiff) to be the start of low branches or would they be whacked along with all else in that region???, essentially starting over with this new stalk.
Smoke isn't wrong about the callus swelling concern, but his example is extreme; that cut appears to be about 180 degrees of the branch diameter. Yours will not be. Done right, you can use the swelling that will result to your advantage, since it will be to the outside of a curve that you want to accentuate anyway. Remove the little shoots first, then, with a small sharp saw, remove the heavy branch so the angle of the cut is parallel to the bottom of the branch. Clean up and seal the wound, and let the tree finish the growing season. If you leave the rest of the growth for now, the callus will likely cover 1/3-1/2 of the cut, and you can always smooth out rough edges as it heals.

The fact is, you have a tree with a severe fault, that will leave a severe wound. Deal with it now or hate it forever.
 
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