Fix this reverse taper?

[don b]

Purchased this Red Maple this spring. Not having a very good eye for rough stock, I chose this tree for its movement near the base. I now realize that there is a very bad case of reverse taper a couple inches from the base.

My thoughts now are that this tree may become a clump style. My question then is: Do I do anything now to start fixing taper?

 

[don b]

Full tree

 

[don b]

Another option for a front. About 180 turn.

 

[don b]

Looks like the two large branches and four smaller branches all sharing an origin is the cause of the big knot there. And the tree seems to really like that spot because it keeps making tiny little new buds in that area. Some visible in these pics. Should I rub those off?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

 

[don b]

View attachment 110596

Wow. That'd take care of the reverse taper alright! lol
What time of year would be best for this kind of work?

 

[petegreg]

View attachment 110596

Bingo, clean and nice. I would remove all thinner branches now and use cut paste. Plus reduction of the thickest trunk to one node with leaves. I think the best time to make a big wounds is spring. You will have all the length of season for healing.

 

[jcrossett]

Good eye @Brian Van Fleet gives the tree a great movement also.

 

[don b]

So scrap the clump idea?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Do it now. Scrap the clump idea; gotta cut away the bad stuff ASAP.
Make nice, clean surgical cuts. Take your time, seal them up.

 

[Timbo]

She has a nice butt IMO....oops, did i say that outloud!?

 

[0soyoung]

So scrap the clump idea?

Yes, do scrap this idea.

To make a group you would need to layer it, cutting the top of the girdle just below where all the stems emerge. It will be so close to the soil surface that there is no possibility of a shoot sprouting below the girdle. This means that the roots will no longer be fed, the instant you've completed making the girdle. The roots will then only live until the starches stored in the roots runs out. If you don't succeed in generating new roots before then, the roots die and take the entire tree with them! Ground layers are risky!

BVFs suggestion is far less risky, despite the fact that a bunch of stuff is pruned away (ouch, you say?). But the do-loop of tree life (roots supply water and minerals to the foliage, the foliage feeds the roots and everything between) remains intact. It is far less risky.

 

[Shima]

Wow. That'd take care of the reverse taper alright! lol
What time of year would be best for this kind of work?

I hope you're young.

 

[don b]

She has a nice butt IMO....oops, did i say that outloud!?

I do enjoy a nice butt.. Hence why I purchased this one.

I hope you're young.

I estimate I'll have about 60 more years of bonsai if I'm lucky.

 

[petegreg]

Hmm butts...I had to change a front and completely restyle one small jwp, because was told not to show the butt of old lady. Heck, it is the young lady and still think she was better before.

 

[don b]

Hmm butts...I had to change a front and completely restyle one small jwp, because was told not to show the butt of old lady. Heck, it is the young lady and still think she was better before.

Gee, I hope cutting all of that doesn't come around and bite me in the butt.

 

[petegreg]

I hope too. I'm usually careful, maybe too much. If Brian says cut it now it must be right.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Use sharp disinfected tools and seal cuts. Should be alright.

 

[sorce]

The surgical part is key, and shouldn't be overlooked.

Sorce

 

[Stickroot]

View attachment 110596

That's what I see!