Love them blueberries, eat 'em up, yum.
People in areas with limestone derived soils can not grow blueberries planted in the ground. But blueberries can be successfully grown in containers. Depth only needs to be maybe 6 inches, (15 cm) roots tend to be shallow. 24 inches diameter or larger, think at least whiskey barrel diameter to the diameter of a 55 gallon drum. Each containerized bush should yield 4 to 7 pounds after being fully established a couple years, and if protected from birds. Most blueberries are self fertile, but larger fruit is created when pollen is exchanged between different cultivars. In a cluster of berries, the big fat ones were the flowers pollenated by a different cultivar. I like 'Bluecrop' as a main season and 'Duke' and 'Sweetheart' as early blueberries. 'Elizabeth' is famous for flavor, and 'Elliot' is relatively mediocre flavor but nearly a month later in ripening. All flower more or less simultaneously. So with planting a few cultivars in containers you can have berries over a 10 to 12 week period.
For container growing roughly equal parts fir bark and coarse peat moss, to this add perlite or pumice if desired, not really needed. Blueberries were bog plants. If irrigation water is higher in calcium than 100 ppm, add powdered elemental sulfur as a top dressing. The sulfur will aide in keeping mix acidic over time. Every year top dress with additional bark and elemental sulfur. Elemental sulfur is sold in full line Garden centers that cater to organic growers. It comes in 2 grades. A very fine powder for use as a fungicide spray and a more coarse grind for use as soil pH adjustment. Either will work. The fungicide fine powder breaks down faster, so add less, more often. The soil amendment grind is best as you only need to add it once a year in my experience (the farm and my home both had irrigation water at roughly 190 ppm as calcium carbonate. If your irrigation water is significantly higher in calcium, add more, more often.