Ezo murasaki tsutsuji

[Adair M]

on this last tree i only used aluminium though, you are right i shouldnt really use copper but on that first tree copper seemed the best choice to hold the bends or it had to be very thick aluminium which is hard to apply.

As for the cold, maybe you are right but this is not a common azalea, this grows in mountainside in hokaido where temps can get very low. I think this is probably the most cold hardy rhodendedndrum there is, or 1 of anywayz. So i dont think it will do any harm to it.

On azalea and deciduous trees, wire is only effective during the growing season. It's the addition of new cells that cause the bends to "take", and no new cells are produced during the winter.

An azalea would be a difficult tree to make into a windswept. Not because of the branches, it's the leaves. Azalea leaves pretty much come out in all directions. Under the influence of wind, the ones facing the wind would be blown back - so they would be curled back or turned upside down or something.

 

[JudyB]

On azalea and deciduous trees, wire is only effective during the growing season. It's the addition of new cells that cause the bends to "take", and no new cells are produced during the winter.
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I disagree that wire will not "take" in winter. I wire lots of D trees in winter and remove at potting time. At least for regular bending, not super big bends, I see it work all the time.

 

[0soyoung]

I disagree that wire will not "take" in winter. I wire lots of D trees in winter and remove at potting time. At least for regular bending, not super big bends, I see it work all the time.

I agree. What @Adair M said seems true for gymnosperms (or should I just say conifers?), but angiosperms (aka 'deciduous' or flowering trees) stiffen markedly during the winter (I presume this is because of 'lignification' occurring).

Around the time of leaf drop, maples in particular, are flexible but aren't so much so come spring when those bends will stay in place when I (we?) take that wire off. The bends are retained. Not so with conifers (as pines, thuja, and spruce in my case) - at least one growing season is necessary.

 

[Adair M]

I guess it all depends on when in winter you wire. Wiring early in winter, the trees perhaps not fully dormant yet.

The best time to wire deciduous is when the new shoots have leaves, the stems are soft and flexible.

 

[Eric Group]

This is a rhodendendrum dauricum. Shohin size
I got about 2-3 months ago, bought in hokaido. It was already getting pretty cold at the time there with freezing temps at night.
I styled it 2 weeks ago. Still a lot to be done but i could open it a lot, i sadly lost my before picture... Goddamn stupid mobile. ..I stopped for now as i accidently broke half of one of the trunks, i guess you can see where. There is no change to be seen yet so i might be safe.
Anywayz, the weather has been warmer then usual here plus the fact i brought it from hokaido has made it flower. 1 is open now but looks like another bud is thinking about it too..
View attachment 88871 View attachment 88872

There is something really... GOTH about this tree! If it was a 12 year old girl it would wear black lip stick, black nail polish and listen to death metal! If this tree were a rose it would be BLACK!

Really interesting variety. Love the blooms! The leaves are so dark it almost looks like Chinese Fringe Flower.

 

[JudyB]

I guess it all depends on when in winter you wire. Wiring early in winter, the trees perhaps not fully dormant yet.

The best time to wire deciduous is when the new shoots have leaves, the stems are soft and flexible.

You always seem to be so sure of this, and though I would never question your expertise in coniferous plants, I do think that experience with deciduous trees is lacking in some of the absolute rules you place on D trees and their care.

 

[Adair M]

Oh, no rules are absolute! Lol!

You're asking about wiring the young shoots, yes?

Ok, let's discuss it. Let's use maples. First, we have to take a step back to late last fall or early winter. When looking at the dormant buds on a maple before the shoots emerge, the buds are in pairs right? And when you cut back in fall, you cut back to which pair? The buds alternate, one pair goes side to side, the next pair goes up and down. Right? So which pair do you cut back to?

Submit your answer, and we'll go on from there...

 

[JudyB]

Oh, no rules are absolute! Lol!

You're asking about wiring the young shoots, yes?

Ok, let's discuss it. Let's use maples. First, we have to take a step back to late last fall or early winter. When looking at the dormant buds on a maple before the shoots emerge, the buds are in pairs right? And when you cut back in fall, you cut back to which pair? The buds alternate, one pair goes side to side, the next pair goes up and down. Right? So which pair do you cut back to?

Submit your answer, and we'll go on from there...

I won't muddy this thread. Will just say that I wire more than new shoots as you know. Most folks do.
Not starting any pot stirring, and you are right that the best time to wire is when growth is young. But it is not the only time.

 

[Adair M]

I won't muddy this thread. Will just say that I wire more than new shoots as you know. Most folks do.
Not starting any pot stirring, and you are right that the best time to wire is when growth is young. But it is not the only time.

Fair enough. When I have time, I'll start a new thread on the subject in the maple section.

 

[Steve Kudela]

About the only time that I won't wire is in the autumn when things are getting ready to go dormant, after they drop leaves it's on. I wire and shape all winter long except on freezing days. That's with deciduous and conifers. Wiring continues all season long until early autumn as stated above. I think that your climate matters, y6u both experience more cold and lower temperatures than I do. I would probably change methodology if I lived in Judy's climate, but no change for north Georgia, I assuming Clayton area. I've been involved in bonsai for 34 years and have never had any issues that I'm aware of with dormant season wiring. I can see the branches and buds better than when they are full of leaves. As far as which buds to cut back to....cut back to the ones that grow in the direction you want it to grow. Thanks.................SK

 

[Djtommy]

Thinking of cutting some branches of this one, well i probably layer off the left side as i think it has some cool curves, or if anyone knows of a design where i can keep the left part?
From rim of pot to the top leaf measure 14 cm.

 

[TomB]

You could tilt the whole thing to the left for a semi-cascade, if you want to keep that part. However your virtual has a great trunk line if you can keep the top section small.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The virtual looks more tree like. The original is a fair start on a clump style, as one would do with Chojubai. You could stick with the clump style for a few more years, then prune to the tree style. Up to you, either is attractive. Clump style if you can use it as accent for a larger tree. Tree style to go in a shohin box display. The longer it is a clump, the thicker the base of the trunk will become.