Extended season starting trees indoors

Wait wouldn't that add up to between 120000 and 160000 trees per year? Very inpressive
 
I am also using the AB34 in Anderson flats for my seedlings. I need to buy some more for next year. I am also using the next size up (ab35 or ab36) for the larger saplings to continue growing. I think the 35/36 bands will be the last band before putting the seedlings in grow bags or pond baskets.

My seedlings have done well with band pots so far. I have yet to take one out of the pots to see what the results will be as I been using them for less then a year.

Fair warning on the bands. If you have a perfectionist streak you may have some work to do once you get them. Almost all of mine came with the injection mold nub left on that pushed the center of the band inwards and prevented them from standing up by themselves. I ended up using my concave cutters to cut the nubs almost flush on probably about 200+ bands.

I love the quality "feel" of the Anderson products, but I do wish their injection process also removed the nubs afterwords.
 
TIME TO GET THE JAPANESE BLACK PINE SEEDLING CUTTINGS GOWING.
Really easy plan this season.I will root them in the 10x20 flats as usual and this season I plan to just leave them there undisturbed.
This gives them the healthiest start and most speedy growth.
Can fit nearly 200 in each flat.It is important to transplant at the right time though or they shade and stretch and this is quite disastrous....so you cannot start them too early.

Then in Spring they will be transplanted into the Anderson Band pots and also regular 3-4" pots.

So right now I am filling the 70 gallon reservoir with RO water a couple days.Also the seeds have been in moist spahgnum a couple weeks to give a more even and higher rate of germination.1 lb of seed!!!!!

I will plant the pre-cuttings in a few days....I will probably stagger the seed flats like 2 trays every three days or so or I will have too many at the same stage and will not be able to make cuttings of them all at the same time.........this would be bad as they can get too woody for good cuttings...........I left a picture of the best stage to make cuttings.....way better then in a green succulent state.....100% success rate nearly.
This slightly harder stage also allows the very strong 5x strength of dip& gro also without burning the stems....... a 5 minute dip...no longer.I got great results with that!

Perlite grade #2....... and some vermiculite when they are outside in 12 weeks so they don't dry too quickly.20251222_230405.jpg20251222_230615.jpg20251222_230634.jpgScreenshot_20251212_220424_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20251212_220414_Chrome.jpg20251028_213405.jpg20251009_202854~2.jpg20251006_232121.jpgScreenshot_20251025_203647_Chrome.jpg
 
MIXED NUTRIENT FOR THE SEEDLING CUTTINGS

Now this is a pre-cutting propagation formula. I use for seedling germination,pre-cutting seedlings and any propagation fertilizing when a NPK is needed.It has an equal 1:1 ratio of Nitrogen to Potassium......the 1:1 greatly increases rooting in cuttings and pre-cuttings or mother plant preperation.
All at a very low ec of 55 ppm or .1 ec!!
This is a very awesome factor when using a pure ro water.......My RO water is @ 7ppm.
So this is only water and usable nutrients.
Seedlings actually grow faster with more water.........in the early stages🙂

And as you can see in the pictures....low on NPK and strong on the Bio-Stimulants.The humic and fulvic acids are strong on micro nutrients and even macros such as calcium....along with kelp.

There is also vitamin b-magnesium in the npk portion ( yellow solution) and also a ton of tech grade amino acids( L GLYCINE & L GLUTAMATE) in the Bio-Stimulant portion.The tech grade aminos give a 1000x boost of calcium uptake!! These L Aminos are present in kelp too! The Japanese have used kelp for centuries....massive calcium boost.

Then I added enzymes and also yucca powder...enzymes for rinsing the media of salts.....and yucca is a surfactant to keep npk and bios in suspension and mixed adequately.

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PLA TED A COUPLE FLATS OF JAPANESE BLACK PINE SEED.

I am thinking perhaps a couple flats every 5-7 days.This way the growth stage is staggered every two flats.I definately do not want trays and trays of seedlings all at the same stage because I will not be able to keep up making the cuttings during the optimal seedling maturity.
I also kept the flats somewhat thin so the seedlings can mature and not crowd and start stretching the meristems.Best kept short and stocky in pre-cutting phase.
I domed them for lots of humidity during initial seed germination.This helps alot.

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STARTED THE 2ND WAVE OF SEEDLINGS AND ALSO ZELKOVA PROSPECTS .

I started the 2nd wave of JBP for the seedling cuttings.Staggering these seedlings so they are ripe for cuttings at appropriate times so they will not get past the sweet spot before I can get to them.
The first flats are sprouting so I removed the domes.The 2nd wave are over in the less intense light with humidity domes in straight perlite.

Also I will try again the indoor early start on Zelkova......mainly Kabudachi style air layering.I noticed the best results I ever have with zelkova is pure perlite.I will devote room for about 500 or so and ring ark them in Spring and during the grow season.

The indoor start zelkovas are fantastic and I will keep planting till' I succeed.The seed for zelkova is in the mail and I will plant right away after a couple day soak in some kelp water20260101_164306.jpg20260101_164258.jpgEA554523-4BF5-4260-A773-0615FFAD98AD.jpeg16645598-C3DE-486F-B820-19100621DFF0.jpeg021DC90B-30F2-4C9F-A72A-CC127AE3590C.jpeg5981149A-593E-42DE-BB2E-B0BA13F1F508.jpegA1B9CCEC-4EAC-4A74-8E5C-CD8FF569502F.jpegA754ED81-1F7A-4247-8F82-D2A71673C718.jpegF1B4494B-7A35-461B-A894-B87556035D3F.jpeg20CCEAC4-B722-4662-8DB0-1254E2895AE9.jpeg338048EE-B786-42C8-9F8A-85E66ACFD9FD.jpegBD6CEBCD-C121-4F9D-9DFF-C380B630ED67.jpegFD6150E8-196B-4061-A95B-ED23E7F30ABC.jpeg8096AD04-3A44-448A-955D-D20F3744D939.jpeg6433C786-1DC5-4DC8-8121-59B4C7A8D9CD.jpeg894241D8-992F-4CBC-BE50-1DF08DE68729.jpeg
 
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DID THE FIRST BI-WEEKLY RESEVOIR FLUSH.

This is essential.Every two weeks.I keep the water at about 70 degrees F.This ensures oxygen abundance in the water and also less chance of weird biofilms or pathogens multiplying.........hot water will cause the already present pathogens to form since the lack of oxygen from overly warm water temperature.......These pathogens are actually already present everywhere....lack of oxygen make them take over.

A good 8 gallon shop vac makes this a breeze.I also just run some chlorinated tap water over the flood table for about 10 minutes.....I then use a good long handle soft bristle scrub to clean the reservoir with basic city chlorinated tap water .....shop vac it out and then refil with RO water.


The refil takes about 48 hours or so.
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