Ebihara maples

[markyscott]

First thing to do is thin the leaves. Focus on the strong extending shoots. On the top, remove both leaves for the first couple of nodes on the shoot. Then remove one leaf at each node. Generally one leaf will be high and one will be low. For branches on the top of the tree, remove the upper leaf. On the bottom branches, remove the lower. But leave the weak interior growth alone. Weaken the strong and strengthen the weak. Do this over the whole tree.

 

[markyscott]

It's critically important that the interior growth remain healthy. Consider this branch:



It's long, straight, and there's no taper. It looks like a young branch. The future are these shoots:


These can be used to create shape, branching, and taper - like this


But not if they die. If they do, there'll be nothing to cut back to and you'll be left with that boring branch. So make sure the light gets to the inside.

 

[markyscott]

Thinning to one leaf is a Japanese maple technique. Tridents are worked differently. Also - developed Japanese maples may become very dense with growth. Even after removing 1/2 the leaves over the entire tree it may still be too dark on the inside. In that case, cut the remaining leaf in 1/2 like this:

 

[markyscott]

While you're in there, thin the growing shoots. You'll find some nodes that have put out a mass of shoots. Thin to two. Keep the upper shoot if you want to extend the branch, or the horizontal shoots if you want to create branching. See - here's a problem branch.


At least five shoots coming out of that one node. We'll thin this one to two horizontal shoots - like this:

 

[markyscott]

In other cases, you'll be able to cut back a branch to create taper. Look for those interior shoots that have grown strongly this spring. If they're strong, you can cut back a branch to the new shoot. Here's one where I cut back to an upper shoot because I want to keep lengthening this branch. Then I wired it down.



If you cut back to a side branch, you can twist it when you wire to make it the top. If you want to do this, make sure that you turn the wire in the direction you'd like to twist the branch. That way it tightens as you twist it. Then wire the new shoot down.

 

[markyscott]

Then finish wiring out the tree. If you're trying to let the branch grow longer or thicker, keep the growing tip. Cut back the spring shoots on the apex - this is the strongest part of the tree and the soft shoots will thicken really rapidly to the point where they can be used. So keep the apex in check.

After thinning and before wiring.


After wiring.


One down ...

 

[0soyoung]

I (think I) fully understand the reasons for fretting about interior branches/buds when a bonsai is in maintenance, but when one is developing branches (on a deciduous tree), it doesn't seem to me that interior foliage and branches matter, generally speaking (i.e., there may be special circumstances that I am not including). One can always prune back to a node at some future date and it will release buds - the most distal buds will always release shoots. Right?

btw, fun and interesting discussion (this thread)

 

[markyscott]

I (think I) fully understand the reasons for fretting about interior branches/buds when a bonsai is in maintenance, but when one is developing branches (on a deciduous tree), it doesn't seem to me that interior foliage and branches matter, generally speaking (i.e., there may be special circumstances that I am not including). One can always prune back to a node at some future date and it will release buds - the most distal buds will always release shoots. Right?

btw, fun and interesting discussion (this thread)

Hi Oso - good question. You can certainly prune back to a node. That's part of winter cutback. During spring, I only cut back to a shoot. If you cut back after the spring push on a Japanese maple, one several things can happen.

1. You can get a new bud in the right spot.
2. The branch could die back past where you want the new shoot.
3. The branch can die completely.
4. You can get a new bud to shoot, but pointed in the right direction.
5. The branch could just sit there and bud out next season.

I generally don't cut back in spring at all unless there is a strongly growing shoot. It's safer when the tree keeps growing.

But when you get those interior shoots, it's good to keep them healthy. It's important to promote young interior shoots so that you have viable soft branches to cut back to in winter. It's good to keep them healthy, even on developing trees.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

The main problem i see when not keeping the inner growth is that you get uneven, strong growth around the tree when cutting back. It tends to have big internodes, growing strong upward and make the tree out of control for another year. Cut a branch to a but in fall and it will produce a big shoot in spring. Cut a branch to a small developed branch in fall and it will redirect the energy more inward, producing the "soft" growth we need.

 

[0soyoung]

The main problem i see when not keeping the inner growth is that you get uneven, strong growth around the tree when cutting back. It tends to have big internodes, growing strong upward and make the tree out of control for another year. Cut a branch to a but in fall and it will produce a big shoot in spring. Cut a branch to a small developed branch in fall and it will redirect the energy more inward, producing the "soft" growth we need.

Ah, a key point --> weak interior shoots have short internodes!
Short internodes sometimes happen in apical shoots grown late in the season, but short internodes are almost guaranteed on interior shoots - right? Then, I think everything Scott said logically follows.

 

[markyscott]

I think the key is balanced growth. You don't want super weak interior growth and super strong exterior shoots. You don't want the top strong and the bottom weak. In black pines, we all know the techniques used to achieve balanced growth - needle pulling, decandling, etc. On broadleaf trees, the moral equivalent is wiring, selective leaf removal and pruning.

Weaken the strong and strengthen the weak.

 

[markyscott]

I did. His response was - it depends. He showed me this tree from Kinbon. It's a zelkova grown by Ebihara. Apparently rejected a lot of money for it, according to the stories.

View attachment 91356

It was 36 years in training when this photo was taken.

This was the original tree. Photo taken in 1976.
View attachment 91358

This was taken 9 years later in 1985.
View attachment 91359

It was grown exclusively in training pots using this technique, according to the article and Boon's recollection of his conversation with Ebihara.

Boon's maple has been board planted for 3 years. This was the first repotting since the techniques was applied. He estimated that one or two more repottings to finish - so about 10 years.

Scott

I found a picture of the zelcova in leaf taken with the master - Shigeo Ebihara. I really like the photo with him in it - it really gives a sense of scale. This is really an immense tree.



This was taken in 2008 - in training for 42 years. Only container grown. Amazing.

 

[fredman]

Amazing for sure !!! Million bucks tree

 

[aml1014]

Amazing for sure !!! Million bucks tree

I'd consider it priceless!

Aaron

 

[markyscott]

I'd consider it priceless!

Aaron

I think he did too. He didn't sell it at that price when offered, according to the stories.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Scott, my fellow big Texan, I've been looking at some of my grafts, and I'm sure I need to improve on my technique. For some reason I have way too much swelling near the grafts where I've done approach grafts. Perhaps I need to slow down the growth of the tree with pruning or have better timing of when to start the grafts. Anyhow, I see it looks like you have some of the swelling, but much less than I have on one of my maples. It's messing with the taper. I've considered scarring the trunk in other areas to correct the taper, but could some of the swelling or knobs just be removed for correction? Would I need to leave a concave wound so that it will heal smoothly?

 

[MACH5]

Great documentation Scott! Thank you for always taking the time.

 

[AlainK]

This was taken in 2008 - in training for 42 years. Only container grown. Amazing.

Wow!...

 

[j evans]

First, thanks Scott for taking the time to provide all the great information backed up with very nice photos plus everyone else for contributing. Now if I can just retain 10% of it I'll be a lot better off. Thanks again

 

[AlainK]

Now if I can just retain 10% of it I'll be a lot better off. Thanks again

+1

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