bonsaichile
Omono
No pinching.
For what it's worth, you should never pinch a spruce. It only weakens them. Instead, let them grow all summer and in August cut back to a bud.
No pinching.
Hell yeah man! You proved me wrong! Very nice.It came through fine. A little later start than a few of my spruces, but here is the new growth pushing. The plan for now is to let the unmolested root system push the growth all summer. No pinching. Late summer-early fall reevaluate what the next step is. Since you now live in Bend, I’ll tell you that I bought this tree at Eastside Gardens. It was an end of season sale and the tree was way in the back lot. They had a number of big DAS pruned in that spiral topiary fashion.
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Pinching is an appropriate technique when transitioning to refinement. Look at the Mirai streams dealing with their Engelmann cascade. That tree wasn't weakened in the slightest and was pinched in multiple sessions over 3-4 weeks. But @Arcto already knows that - he's taken Elongating Species courses at Mirai.For what it's worth, you should never pinch a spruce. It only weakens them. Instead, let them grow all summer and in August cut back to a bud.
I don't watch Mirai. Not that I don't admire Neil and his artistry. I do. I just can't stand him.Pinching is an appropriate technique when transitioning to refinement. Look at the Mirai streams dealing with their Engelmann cascade. That tree wasn't weakened in the slightest and was pinched in multiple sessions over 3-4 weeks. But @Arcto already knows that - he's taken Elongating Species courses at Mirai.
At any rate, I pinch spruces in refinement with no undesirable effects.I don't watch Mirai. Not that I don't admire Neil and his artistry. I do. I just can't stand him.
Here's one
Yes, it is hard to see.it's hard to see
Pinching is an appropriate technique when transitioning to refinement. Look at the Mirai streams dealing with their Engelmann cascade. That tree wasn't weakened in the slightest and was pinched in multiple sessions over 3-4 weeks. But @Arcto already knows that - he's taken Elongating Species courses at Mirai.
I found that when I pinch spruces, I get all the new buds at the wound, not back in the branch. That is why I prefer to wait until it has set new buds for next year and cut back. Otherwise, the foliage concentrates only on the tip of the branches.At any rate, I pinch spruces in refinement with no undesirable effects.
One of the problems I have with the Mirai videos is that I find them (1) too long and (2) Ryan rambles too much. That makes them confusing to me. There are some outstanding ones, like his wiring explanation. But those live streams when he works on trees... It is like going to a demo without any of the benefits of actually being there. Truth be told, I don't have the patience for them.The entire thought process is based off Ryan's teaching.
I never could grasp his spruce teachings, though K know I missed parts, the parts that exist are enough to know it's kinda...kinda...
Contradictory to his own teachings.
Sorce
Similar to junipers, to maintain the desired silhouette you cut back (to a bud) the long shoots. Spruces grow; it is imposible to keep the silhouette without interior growth that in time will take the place of overgrown branchesThe primary purposes of pinching are to maintain a desired silhouette and to balance energy. It is not a developmental technique and you certainly don’t do it on a weak tree.
Cutting back to a bud may not maintain the currently desired silhouette. Pinching stimulates interior growth, some of which will replace current exterior growth in the future. As @Arcto stated, which technique to use all depends on what stage a branch is in.Similar to junipers, to maintain the desired silhouette you cut back (to a bud) the long shoots. Spruces grow; it is imposible to keep the silhouette without interior growth that in time will take the place of overgrown branches
Problem is, spruces dont backbud as predictably as pines do. And pinching only stimulates budding at the tip of the shoot, not further down the branch. I prefer not to pinch.When the tree is strong, healthy and growing well. When it is in refinement. When it has pads formed and backbudding occurring. When new growth starts to go beyond the silhouette. Then I will pinch as needed. I will continue to prune as needed also. There maybe some confusion for some people about the change in technique between development and refinement. I won’t pinch areas of the tree still in development.
Problem is, spruces dont backbud as predictably as pines do. And pinching only stimulates budding at the tip of the shoot, not further down the branch. I prefer not to pinch.
that assumes you can keep the desired silhouette indefinitely, which is certainly not the case with most trees. Cutting back to a bud usually means cutting down to the bottom of this year's shoots, where new buds will set in August. Keeping the tree's foliage throught the season to maximize its photosynthetic period keeps a tree strong. Forcing it to spend resources in an artificial "second flush" weakens it. You can do it, but if you do it every year, your tree will slowly decline.Cutting back to a bud may not maintain the currently desired silhouette. Pinching stimulates interior growth, some of which will replace current exterior growth in the future. As @Arcto stated, which technique to use all depends on what stage a branch is in.
That’s right, but you don’t pinch unless you already have the back buds which it will stimulate. You can achieve that also with pruning post hardening, but the resulting growth may have longer internodes than you might like.Problem is, spruces dont backbud as predictably as pines do. And pinching only stimulates budding at the tip of the shoot, not further down the branch. I prefer not to pinch.