Creating a Hollow Japanese Maple

[DrTolhur]

I like the look of trees with large hollows, like the one attached or even all the way up the trunk. It's just a cool and unexpected presentation of a tree. But I also work mostly with Japanese maples, and I know that they're typically considered more elegant than rugged, so people don't usually go this route with their design. I'm interested in possibly artificially creating a large hollow in one of my Japanese maples (at some point), but I'm curious if anyone has done it. Obviously there's plenty of content out there for other varieties, but I'm wondering if no one does it with Japanese maples just because people don't think it goes with the aesthetic or if there's some horticultural reason it doesn't work well. Feel free to share photos and experiences if you've ever tried it.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Bonsai is a art form . Some practitioners believe you should follow rules or guidelines . Or traditional form if you prefer . And perfection is a perfect copy of that model . Others go so far to think anything goes . And everything in between . In traditional Japanese bonsai Dicid trees . Gave no visible scars or deadwood features . Like a hollow . In nature these are after seen in especially hard wood trees . At the end of the day . Bonsai is representation of a tree in a pot . I think your problem is going to be more a actual accomplishment problem . Deadwood features are preserved with lime sulphur and the woods natural resistance to decay , some have used other products like epoxy . In modern times . But it’s still mostly a conifer and or hardwood tree deal . Japanese Maple being a softwood understory tree . Presents complications . .

 

[Shibui]

Years ago westerners slavishly followed Japanese aesthetics and 'rules' for bonsai. As we develop more experience and confidence more of us are breaking with some of those bonsai traditions.

Dead wood DOES occur on deciduous trees. I for one like the look and find it quite natural.
I have a few maples with dead sections. Usually resulting from some dieback after pruning rather than intentional but I thought they had promise and kept a few.

 

[pandacular]

I think there are very practical aesthetic reasons to avoid deadwood on a smooth barked tree like Japanese maples. It’s very challenging to make a convincing transition between the live and dead parts of the tree that look beautiful. I think this is a big part of the reason that you generally see corky bark trees used for deadwood.

If you want to do this with a Japanese maple, I’d go for ‘Arakawa’. You could also try a different maple, as there’s several with rough barks. Of course there’s also deciduous species known for their capacity to be used with deadwood, such as oaks. Lots of good English artists making great deadwood on oaks.

Another consideration is the age of the tree you are attempting to model. I think hollows (uro) are well suited to an old looking deciduous tree. But other features such as jin are more common on younger trees—or at least younger than the image presented by twisted deadwood junipers, for example.

In other words, I think the discussion about deciduous deadwood is often far too binary than necessary: it is beneficial to take a holistic view.

 

[leatherback]

Japanese maples are prone to fungal infections and the wood decays fast. Those are reasons for me to not wish to have deadwood. (And I have some borers in my region which seem to prefer maples above all else..

 

[Paradox]

 

[Cadillactaste]

I actually have a few. This is my heaviest scarred. Preserve the dead would with a wood hardener. Many in the UK have them and they see far more rain than I. So I ventured into scarred trunks awhile back.

 

[rockm]

The issue with hollowing out or putting deadwood on deciduous trees is also about health of the tree. Deciduous wood rots far faster than conifer wood. Conifer wood tends to be more durable and has resins that protect it somewhat from the elements. The wood on deciduous trees doesn't have that. Hollowing out a maple can lead to issues, not only with fungus and rot, but structural problems that can lead to trunk collapse. Even with wood hardeners and treatment, that issue is persistent.

I've heard at least one Japanese-trained bonsai professional caution strongly against hollowing out deciduous trees for those very reasons. He said the Japanese don't do it because it takes decades off of the tree's life. Eventually, the compromised wood leads to issues.

I've seen this with a few maples I have, particularly Amur maples. I got a very very nice mostly "finished" amur at a National Arboretum bonsai surplus sale. It had a trunk that had been hollowed a bit probably a decade before I got it. The rot had taken most of the heartwood over that time. It was sometimes challenging to work on it since the trunk was delicate. It was also a challenge to keep up with applying wood hardener, since that is most effective when applied to dry wood. Exposed Deciduous wood will soak up water like a sponge over time, particularly where it is in contact with soil.

Doesn't mean it can't, or shouldn't, be done, but it comes at a price down the road.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

For all the reasons about structural. Integrity and rot mentioned here . That is why I mentioned . Maple being a understory soft wood tree . There is also natures own defence to consider . Trees with natural rot resistant wood . Have a tendency to allow wounds to remain . And just ignore them . Trees that do not have rot resistant wood tend to grow over the wound to protect it . This is a advantage for wound healing that is used in bonsai . We are wise to follow nature here . If one wants a dead wood Dicid tree . Choose a species that has rot resistant hard wood . To at least get all the advantage you can on your side . The cold climate oaks ( especially the white oak family wood used for centuries in barrels for liquid ) the Malus and prunus family have sone trees .usable . The European olive . The harder wood elms . And others come easily to mind . Look up the thread here . 32 year old acer rubrum . There is a wild collected North American softwood maple . That had a carved trunk . Which over time completely healed the large wound .I think you would be much happier and less frustrated , at the results if you try to enhance the natural tendency of the trees .

 

[Dav4]

Sometimes, when life gives you lemons, you get to make lemonade. The material here really didn't give me much of an option to avoid deadwood, so, I embraced it.







As far as compromising the integrity and health of the tree, I suppose that is somewhat true, but I believe that's mostly a concern for the old landscape trees with rotted cores as opposed to our small potted trees.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Sometimes, when life gives you lemons, you get to make lemonade. The material here really didn't give me much of an option to avoid deadwood, so, I embraced it.
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As far as compromising the integrity and health of the tree, I suppose that is somewhat true, but I believe that's mostly a concern for the old landscape trees with rotted cores as opposed to our small potted trees.

Very nice what do you do to preserve the wood

 

[Dav4]

Very nice what do you do to preserve the wood

I don't. At least, I haven't yet. The raft wood has been exposed for ever and doesn't appear to be actively rotting. The first maple with the uro had lots of punky wood that was carved away and will likely be refined this year. The bottom of the tree core has rotted out, and the wood doesn't stay persistently wet in there anymore so I'm betting the rot will significantly slow down now

 

[Frozentreehugger]

I don't. At least, I haven't yet. The raft wood has been exposed for ever and doesn't appear to be actively rotting. The first maple with the uro had lots of punky wood that was carved away and will likely be refined this year. The bottom of the tree core has rotted out, and the wood doesn't stay persistently wet in there anymore so I'm betting the rot will significantly slow down now

What species is the raft .

 

[Dav4]

What species is the raft .

Japanese maple, started as a cutting from the first Japanese maple pre-bonsai I ever owned. In my experience, maple wood is fairly rot resistant if it dries out regularly.

 

[Cadillactaste]

If you have Instagram...look up Bonsaisteve. He has many Maples with rotted trunks. Based in the UK where they see a wet winter and well a lot of rain period. He's had them for years.

I based my adding them to my collection over seeing the time in on his bench to be truthful. End of the day...I too have a shelf life. but it doesn't concern me at all...the maples I have that have natural shari or scarred wood.

I'll say this.. I would rather have that character on my bench for as long as it lasts. Than put time into a species that is short lived 10 years or so. Young thing just getting developed to die. No.. not worth my time. But a tree with much Character...seeing an example of some in a climate far more wet than my own. Oh yes...I'll bank on deadwood,scars and whatnot all day long with a joy they bring me. They also happen to draw my attention longer... than ones that doesn't. That's just me.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Sometimes, when life gives you lemons, you get to make lemonade. The material here really didn't give me much of an option to avoid deadwood, so, I embraced it.
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As far as compromising the integrity and health of the tree, I suppose that is somewhat true, but I believe that's mostly a concern for the old landscape trees with rotted cores as opposed to our small potted trees.

That raft is absolutely deliciousness, my friend.

 

[rockm]

This can also depend on where the rot is. Surfaces clear of the soil and exposed to sunlight will rot more slowly. Those that remain wet, or are constantly being wet down and dried out, not so much. Species also is factor.

My big live oak has a huge dead root in the front (see pic below), which I've carved over the years, the wound goes up through the trunk to a hole in the top of another portion of the tree's root base. I've had the tree for going on 35 years now. No rot at all. White oak and southern species of live oak in particular, have extremely durable wood that has been used for centuries for sailing ships.

Bald cypress is another species that will resist rot (up to a point, since the resin called cypressine) isn't present in enough quantity in the wood until the tree is a couple of hundred years old. Bald cypress wood is also subject to infection by a fungus that eats away at pockets of wood, the resulting "pecky cypress" with the telltale rot pockets brings a premium for the wood used in flooring and the like.

 

[rockm]

If you have Instagram...look up Bonsaisteve. He has many Maples with rotted trunks. Based in the UK where they see a wet winter and well a lot of rain period. He's had them for years.

I based my adding them to my collection over seeing the time in on his bench to be truthful. End of the day...I too have a shelf life. but it doesn't concern me at all...the maples I have that have natural shari or scarred wood.

I'll say this.. I would rather have that character on my bench for as long as it lasts. Than put time into a species that is short lived 10 years or so. Young thing just getting developed to die. No.. not worth my time. But a tree with much Character...seeing an example of some in a climate far more wet than my own. Oh yes...I'll bank on deadwood,scars and whatnot all day long with a joy they bring me. They also happen to draw my attention longer... than ones that doesn't. That's just me.

Not criticizing your beautiful maple. Just saying there is a practical reason beyond the "there shouldn't be deadwood on deciduous trees" thing beyond simple esthetics. Having dealt with the issue on a number of softer wood trees (from black cherry to maple) it is a concern.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Not criticizing your beautiful maple. Just saying there is a practical reason beyond the "there shouldn't be deadwood on deciduous trees" thing beyond simple esthetics. Having dealt with the issue on a number of softer wood trees (from black cherry to maple) it is a concern.

I get that you aren't criticizing. Truly...

That said...my gerbil stumbles on accepting the rest. Just by the trees I see on benches of friends in the UK. Collected Yamadori deciduous trees with scars/deadwood. They aren't doing it wrong...Harry Harrington...and Sean Stolp and ones...are not doing it wrong. That's where I stumble.

I've seen a decline on deciduous in the market of my trying to buy good bones. Scott Lee was my main go to. He's gotten out of a lot of deciduous...his words. The market isn't there.

Got in a discussion with one in a group. And they went on about flawless trunks and how hard it is to achieve a good deciduous tree. Again I paused...

I love Sergio is a huge deciduous guy. I hope his trees inspire ones to go heavy on deciduous again. Because...the market isn't there...concerns me. When I am a deciduous gal...and truly love them.

But if the market isn't there over flawless perfection...why not try and add merit to another avenue of deciduous? That's my stance.

I'll never accept...our reasoning for a flawless trunk. Just because I have to many UK based bonsai friends. I see their trees...and my mind can't aline with what ones say here. That's on me I reckon. But that's where I stand.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Japanese maple, started as a cutting from the first Japanese maple pre-bonsai I ever owned. In my experience, maple wood is fairly rot resistant if it dries out regularly.

Was fairly sure . Just checking . Not something you see after do you have a pic in leaf .