Could use some ideas on this unknown species I collected last year!

[Leo in N E Illinois]

From a practical standpoint does it really matter which species of American Celtis?

I believe the only "bonsai difference" is Celtis laevigata has more pronounced corky wings develop on the trunk of young trees, before they fuse and become a rough bark. So slightly rougher bark, a few years sooner than Celtis occidentalis. Slightly larger fruit on C. laevigata.

Hackberry pie - eat your bonsai !!!!

C. laevigata is fairly common on my sister's 40 acres, in southern Illinois. She is about 100 miles southeast of Saint Louis. On my farm, 76 acres in SW Michigan, I only have found one single Celtis and I think it is occidentalis, growing up against the ruins of a dairy barn. I have searched, but find no seedlings. and no other mature trees on the farm. Doesn't mean there are none, I just have not found them yet.

 

[JoeR]

I believe the only "bonsai difference" is Celtis laevigata has more pronounced corky wings develop on the trunk of young trees, before they fuse and become a rough bark. So slightly rougher bark, a few years sooner than Celtis occidentalis. Slightly larger fruit on C. laevigata.

Hackberry pie - eat your bonsai !!!!

C. laevigata is fairly common on my sister's 40 acres, in southern Illinois. She is about 100 miles southeast of Saint Louis. On my farm, 76 acres in SW Michigan, I only have found one single Celtis and I think it is occidentalis, growing up against the ruins of a dairy barn. I have searched, but find no seedlings. and no other mature trees on the farm. Doesn't mean there are none, I just have not found them yet.

They are wind pollinated, so I assume if the trees are that far apart they are likely not getting pollinated and thus no seedlings.

 

[Daniel son STL]

Thanks for the advise everyone.
Hackberry it is then.

Aftercare is something..
Did you bare root this hackberry?

Anyway..late summer aphids are or can be a problem, orange white or whatever, I’d be (am) aware...who knows

What ALL (wild) hackberry get everywhere I’ve lived in the southeast is a black on the leaves before they fall in autumn. If this happens I would not be alarmed, almost wonder if some frass/fungi symbiosis of sorts, especially seeing as how this is one of the most prolific trees around here, however; that’s possibly the result of woolly aphids on established long lived trees...
This is a list, but the woolly..UK has some legit sources of info for my greater region.

Common Insect Pests of Hackberry

www.uky.edu

Collected about 13-14 months ago. Don’t think I fully bare rooted. Knocked a lot of the original soil out and sprayed down with a hose. So yes bare rooted

 

[TN_Jim]

Thanks for the advise everyone.
Hackberry it is then.


Collected about 13-14 months ago. Don’t think I fully bare rooted. Knocked a lot of the original soil out and sprayed down with a hose. So yes bare rooted

Right on.
Regarding your approach, I’m not sure I initially at collection will truly clean bare root any tree ever again despite successes with the approach.

 

[Daniel son STL]

Update:

tossed in a little movement.

looking for advice. Should probably start a new thread titled “advice needed”, oh well.


So I’m trying to build a broom, but not a traditional broom. I want the lowest branch on the right to be the thickest, next branch up thinner, and so on. I’m basically just growing them out. I’ve also got some secondary branches to work with. Should I even worry about secondary right know at all, even though some I feel are in good places??

as far as growing out the primary branches for thickness. Since all growing at the same time I’m thinking i should leave the bottom branch to grow, prune the next branch up a few inches, prune harder on the next branch up and so on. Would this be a suitable method for growing different girth branching at the same time??

thanks for any help
And if somebody has any other ideas regarding the development of this tree please feel free to share

 

[Daniel son STL]