Moss keeps the bark moist, and rots it away. JBP have good bark, nice thick plates are best. Moss obscures it, and weakens it.
Chuhin JBP
- Thread starter james
- Start date
Woodland Spirit
Chumono
That makes sense.
Thanks.
james
Shohin
Dirk,
Here is a picture of the back when acquired. The rear branches you see have been brought down. Adair may post a picture of the back, if he is at Boon's now. The branch development from the back I believe is better than front at present (more branches, in better position, etc).
With respect to trunk chops/scars ... A whole crop of the trees were field grown and have found their way to Boon's. I believe Boon had something to do with how they were grown. What has resulted are a generation of these JBP in various sizes which come out of the ground with limited trunk scarring, a single stove pipe main escape trunk and ridiculous taper. Limited branching and trunk top need to be grown on. I have chopped this tree twice, and the last styling had a <1cm leader removed.
I my mind, there is still some mystery as to the nearly comical taper achieved with limited scarring.
Here is a picture of the back when acquired. The rear branches you see have been brought down. Adair may post a picture of the back, if he is at Boon's now. The branch development from the back I believe is better than front at present (more branches, in better position, etc).
With respect to trunk chops/scars ... A whole crop of the trees were field grown and have found their way to Boon's. I believe Boon had something to do with how they were grown. What has resulted are a generation of these JBP in various sizes which come out of the ground with limited trunk scarring, a single stove pipe main escape trunk and ridiculous taper. Limited branching and trunk top need to be grown on. I have chopped this tree twice, and the last styling had a <1cm leader removed.
I my mind, there is still some mystery as to the nearly comical taper achieved with limited scarring.
dirk hoorelbeke
Omono
Thanks for the picture of the back. There is no visible scarring. Nice taper on the back too. The low bend / direction change might be a part of the answer. Being able to produce stock like this is a dream to me... Always challenging. Keep up the good work with the tree. Does the tree stays at Boon's place for winter protection or is there an other reason?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
I was about to ask the same question about the moss. I am always battling to keep moss off my corkier trees.
james
Shohin
Dirk,
This tree and several others purchased from Boon, and have remained there since. The reasoning is I wanted to develop several trees with his direct mentorship. I have most of my trees at home in South Dakota, zone 4. All these trees are in greenhouse.
This tree and several others purchased from Boon, and have remained there since. The reasoning is I wanted to develop several trees with his direct mentorship. I have most of my trees at home in South Dakota, zone 4. All these trees are in greenhouse.
dirk hoorelbeke
Omono
Having a tree like that, i would like to see it every day... but i understand the reasoning. Will be a very nice one...
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Nice tree!
KennedyMarx
Omono
Very cool tree. Interesting to see one field grown with this kind of taper and the limited scarring. I'm trying to follow Eric Schrader's instructions on growing JBP from seed in pond baskets.
Boscology
Mame
I like it a lot and agree that theyre all about the bark, its just so unique. Arent JBP very very slow growing I know that I have heard of people being reccomended not to even attempt to work with JBP until they are quite experienced. I do hope to own one at some point but I don't know if for me it is worth starting one from seed and waiting for 10-20 years or buying one in the future, theyre quite expensive and I believe at least some of that is due to its slow growing nature.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Actually a lot of people work with JBP because they are so fast to develop. I think you are talking about JWP.
If you want to learn the JBP culture, get a Muranaka starter JBP. They're started well and you can learn the tree without a huge layout of cash.
If you want to learn the JBP culture, get a Muranaka starter JBP. They're started well and you can learn the tree without a huge layout of cash.
Eric and I talked about growing JBP trunks yesterday...
The only way to get the big fat trunks is to grow them in the ground.
The best way to get really nice nebari is to grow in colanders.
We also decided that the colanders work best to develop nebari between years 2 and 8. Beyond that, well... You have to decide how big you want the nebari. Too wide, you can't get it in a pot!
So, colander grow for 6 to 8 years, then put it in the ground.
Remember that you can always put branches on where you want them by grafting.
We've been busy with the show, I forgot to get a picture of the back of James' tree. But, the concept is let a sacrifice run, cut it back. Let a new sacrifice run, the scar from the first one heals as the new sacrifice grows. Rinse and repeat.
There's 20 trees, approximately, like that at Boon's.
The only way to get the big fat trunks is to grow them in the ground.
The best way to get really nice nebari is to grow in colanders.
We also decided that the colanders work best to develop nebari between years 2 and 8. Beyond that, well... You have to decide how big you want the nebari. Too wide, you can't get it in a pot!
So, colander grow for 6 to 8 years, then put it in the ground.
Remember that you can always put branches on where you want them by grafting.
We've been busy with the show, I forgot to get a picture of the back of James' tree. But, the concept is let a sacrifice run, cut it back. Let a new sacrifice run, the scar from the first one heals as the new sacrifice grows. Rinse and repeat.
There's 20 trees, approximately, like that at Boon's.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
As to moss problems; a couple of years ago I quit watering the upper tree unless on a day doing foliage feeding. Since I water by hand it saves volumes of carried water as well as lessening favorable conditions for fungus growth. Market has some moss killers available and believe there some home remedies as well
. Picking off may be bad idea as can pull off pieces of bark.
Last edited:
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
As to moss problems; a couple of years ago I quit watering the upper tree unless on a day doing foliage feeding. Since I water by hand it saves volumes of carried water as well as lessening favorable conditions for fungus growth. Market has some moss killers available and believe there some home remedies as well
I know you are right... I should water by hand. Sadly I am not always around to care for my trees, so I have a sprinkler system. Therein lies the moss problem, no doubt.
yenling83
Omono
Very nice trees!
At Aichien Nursery, I was taught to use vinegar 50/50 mixed with water painted on with a brush to help reduce moss on trunks.
At Aichien Nursery, I was taught to use vinegar 50/50 mixed with water painted on with a brush to help reduce moss on trunks.
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Ny, maybe 30!
I guess there's a thousand trees in Boon's garden. Some are show ready. Some in process, some just getting started, and some very rough stock. Not all are owned by Boon. (How he keeps up with who's is who's is beyond me! Some of them are tagged ).
Some trees he lets Intensive students work on, some he doesn't. Some of his clients let Intensive students work on their trees, some don't. Boon will make sure the student is qualified to do the work!
Students and members of his club buy/sell/swap trees with each other. Boon actually bought back from me a tree I've owned and kept there. I bought a better tree from another of his club members, so the one I had was surplus. Boon bought it back, and will sell it to another student needing a project.
Some trees at Boon's are considered "rites of passage". You know that once Boon lets you work on it, he considers you reasonably competent.
"Godzilla" is one of those trees:
That was me, exhausted, after a full day of removing wire, pulling needles (which you can see all over the floor), and thinning excess buds. Godzilla is looking at me as if to say, "That's it? That's all you got?? Wimp!"
Lol!
I guess there's a thousand trees in Boon's garden. Some are show ready. Some in process, some just getting started, and some very rough stock. Not all are owned by Boon. (How he keeps up with who's is who's is beyond me! Some of them are tagged ).
Some trees he lets Intensive students work on, some he doesn't. Some of his clients let Intensive students work on their trees, some don't. Boon will make sure the student is qualified to do the work!
Students and members of his club buy/sell/swap trees with each other. Boon actually bought back from me a tree I've owned and kept there. I bought a better tree from another of his club members, so the one I had was surplus. Boon bought it back, and will sell it to another student needing a project.
Some trees at Boon's are considered "rites of passage". You know that once Boon lets you work on it, he considers you reasonably competent.
"Godzilla" is one of those trees:
That was me, exhausted, after a full day of removing wire, pulling needles (which you can see all over the floor), and thinning excess buds. Godzilla is looking at me as if to say, "That's it? That's all you got?? Wimp!"
Lol!
