Choosing the right nursery stock, what to look for

[WHB123]

I have been watching some YouTube videos where someone will turn a small “nursery stock” juniper type tree into a bonsai. So I was looking at some Cryptomeria japonica ‘globosa nana’, and Thuja occidentalis (can’t remember the variety). I then realized I don’t really know what I’m looking for besides a trunk that’s not too thick.

All the plants were the size of the picture I included, and I tried to take some pictures of the trunks. The Cryptomeria all had multiple stems, and the Thuja was mostly straight but some were already slanted.

I own a bonsai that I bought recently and have not had to prune yet and would like to start to make my own bonsai.

I live in central Georgia so the climate is hot and humid.

What should I look for in these trees?
When is a good time of year to prune them/wire them, and repot them?

This is my first post so if anyone knows a better thread to post this in or tags to use please let me know

 

[Headhunter843]

Welcome aboard. I'm also in central Georgia, so we will share the same heat and humidity challenges. I have nothing to add regarding these varieties, other than you should try to find a thick trunk with the best nebari potential. Good luck!

 

[Shibui]

In general, look for the following when selecting stock for bonsai:
Thicker trunk - thicker trunk always looks older than thinner stick trunk. Exception is if you plan to bend your trunk.
Find the surface roots - This may mean digging down a little as commercial trees are often planted deeper than necessary. Buried trunk can be thicker (which is usually good) or may be too long to the first branches (not so good).
Branches - More branches is generally better as we can cut some off pretty quick. Takes a lot longer to grow new ones.
Foliage closer to the trunk where possible. Long bare branches don't look great for bonsai.
Bends in the trunk is often good but more and more commercial grown trees seem to be very straight these days.

Cryptomeria is used as bonsai sometimes in Japan but the growth habit of the original tree is quite different to most of the dwarf cultivars.
I would avoid most cultivars with globosa and/or nana in the name (except for Juniper procumbens - see below). It usually means they grow very slow so it can take many more years to develop good bonsai from these varieties. They do look good as container plants but when you try to select a few branches it's likely you'll be disappointed with the results, unless you like the look of a round ball on a stick.

Thuja can make reasonable bonsai but the flattened foliage pads can be a little challenging to make attractive foliage pads, especially on smaller bonsai.

If you are keen on conifers for bonsai try looking for Juniper procumbens 'nana' which is actually a quick growing small conifer with tight branching and foliage. It is used extensively both by enthusiasts and commercial bonsai growers.
Most of the Juniper chinensis cultivars should also be good.

 

[BobbyLane]

I look for trunk movement, which is often difficult to find in nursery stock. So the next best thing is well placed low branches, good root flare, health.

Trees with good tops have air layering potential, see Mirai video above.

Trees with branching on one side could be potential raft material ,see Mirai video

I mention to the staff, that if they see me digging around in the soil, im just looking for a good basal flare and not damaging the plant, they're always ok then. Sometimes I show them bonsai photos. I build a rapport. Last place I visited took my contact details so they can send pics of stuff they get, that nobody else might want, rabbit or squirrel damaged stock for eg