Can you ease my mind

shane0

Seedling
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A few years ago my dog brought home an acorn and buried it, it then started to grow and i got really attached to it and repotted it but this year i noticed a few roots coming out of the tub so i asked for some advise at the garden center and they said john innes No.3 in a big tub, so ive done that but i feel like its not enough, one of its leaf looks like its starting to go yellow. Do i need to add lava rocks or more sand? its like the water doesnt want to drain and stays on top of the soil for a while and this is getting me worried, i want it to outlive me so. Am i just overthinking it and all will be good for a few years?
Thanks.
 

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Hi. FWIW, garden centre staff aren't often apt to offer any real advice concerned with keeping small trees in pots. That said, lots of my development trees are in a very compost heavy mix and are absolutely fine. The thing with pure compost is that it can be difficult to drain properly if over watered, but that the top will form a near impenetrable crust if it dries out too much. You may want to gently probe down to the roots and make sure that water is getting to them and not just running off a compacted layer to the sides, particularly after getting baked last week. You can also put a mulch layer of bark or such to stop the compost drying out and baking in the sun.

For growing out in large pots I often use a mix of 60% compost, 30% potting bark, 10% horticultural grit. All ish quantities. Cheap and seems to solve most issues.

I imagine being so young it will be just fine. Just don't go messing with the roots too much. Oaks aren't particularly fond of regular, harsh root work.
 
Don't overthink; it should be fine. However, do realize that growing bonsai is not the same as growing nursery stock. For optimal results some rootwork and trunk shaping is needed. Best hook up with a bonsai community, rather than a nursery.
 
I find that seedlings are the opposite. I get the rootwork in every 1-2 years in the first years now, and see great results.
With oaks as well? I've found they can sulk for a while, though my experience isn't extensive...
 
I find that seedlings are the opposite. I get the rootwork in every 1-2 years in the first years now, and see great results.
With oaks as well? I've found they can sulk for a while, though my experience isn't extensive...

I've been doing the same. A two-year-old seedling can handle a 90% root reduction without skipping a beat.
 
Just musing within the thread for a bit. Reducing the tap root in the first few repotting is important. That being said there is no harm in reducing it gradually. The trick is to ensure that the roots remaining have enough side shoots to support the plant. Common sense should prevail! I often wonder if enthusiasts consider when a root can be cut back before doing so.
ie: What is left if I cut this off?
Stem cutting works in a very limited number of species from my experience. unless of course you are experimenting with advanced propagation systems.
 
Just musing within the thread for a bit. Reducing the tap root in the first few repotting is important. That being said there is no harm in reducing it gradually. The trick is to ensure that the roots remaining have enough side shoots to support the plant. Common sense should prevail! I often wonder if enthusiasts consider when a root can be cut back before doing so.
ie: What is left if I cut this off?
Stem cutting works in a very limited number of species from my experience. unless of course you are experimenting with advanced propagation systems.

After the first year, I find there is typically a point on the taproot where multiple side roots emerge at the same level. I cut off the tap root just below that point, and I remove all side roots above that point. If there are not enough side roots, I cut the taproot approximately in half and try again the next year. Are you aware of a better way, or do I have it about right?
 
Yellowing is likely due to soggy soil. That soil looks to retain quite bit of moisture

In addition the barrel of whatever the tree is in is far too large for this seedling. Large pots have large areas of soil that will be void of roots. That means those areas stay wet. Areas with roots dry out sooner since roots take up moisture when they colonize the pot. The larger the pot and the smaller the root mass the longer the pot stays soggy
 
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After the first year, I find there is typically a point on the taproot where multiple side roots emerge at the same level. I cut off the tap root just below that point, and I remove all side roots above that point. If there are not enough side roots, I cut the taproot approximately in half and try again the next year. Are you aware of a better way, or do I have it about right?
If you have a system that works for you it is best. This does not happen with some of the species I work with, The root system differentiates more slowly or in different patterns.
I follow a system I was taught by Boon which involves visually checking the number of the feeder roots on each longer and stronger root before determining how far to cut it back. With tap roots depending on the species I remove 1/3 to 1/2 at a time when repotting seedlings. Provided I am comfortable with the remaining root mass.
Probably not much different from what you are practising.
 
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