Can anyone give me advice how to finish styling this maple?

[isaaquitas]

I would see the approach proposed by @River's Edge as just the start of growing a new bonsai. The trunk and new branches would all grow and develop over the next 5-10 years and probably be above - where your tree is now.
Frank's proposal and reasoning are valid but, as he says, others will see other options. Please see below.

The new photos give much better look at the trunk and branches - where they start and which directions they grow in which is all valuable info when making design decisions. I can also see there's a lower branch that was hidden behind the trunk in the first image.
Unfortunately I'm not so good at making a 3D vision in my head from a series of 2D images. I can provide some possible options but you will still need to make sure what I imagine is really there.
ALWAYS take online advice with plenty of salt and check carefully before committing to any course of action. What someone sees in a phot may not necessarily be there in real life.

Another couple of possible design options for your tree.
Because I can't make out where some of the branches end up I can't fully commit to either.
Both are probably lesser quality that could be developed with Franks harder chop but these will give you something like a bonsai in less time - say 2-4 years. both appear to make better use of the existing trunk bends and direction.
Option 2:
View attachment 547438
Cut at red lines. Lower left branch to be removed entirely. Most of the others cut back to encourage more shoots to emerge to create better branching. Remaining branches bent in teh direction of yellow arrows to spread the canopy.

Option 3 is from the other side.
View attachment 547439
Again, remove branches marked red entirely. Cut branches marked blue short to encourage more shoots and branch ramification. Bend remaining branches in direction of arrows.

One of the reasons for 2 opposite options is that I can't fully make out where the upper branches that will be the new trunk lines go. The new apex needs to be slightly forward of the trunk base. Not sure if the ones I've chosen are coming forward enough or too much - need on ground proofing to decide.
2nd option tries to use that lowest branch but it needs to grow toward the side rather than directly to the front. Need to check whether that can be physically achieved or just remove it and go for a larger tree.

Sorry for giving you so many different options to think about. In the end only one will become the tree. If all seem to be good then it does not matter which you choose.

This is such a amazing response I appreciate it. I think I most likely follow the diagram in the first image as I think I prefer it. I will just let the tree grow a bit more before I do it Thanks for the advice.

 

[isaaquitas]

I would see the approach proposed by @River's Edge as just the start of growing a new bonsai. The trunk and new branches would all grow and develop over the next 5-10 years and probably be above - where your tree is now.
Frank's proposal and reasoning are valid but, as he says, others will see other options. Please see below.

The new photos give much better look at the trunk and branches - where they start and which directions they grow in which is all valuable info when making design decisions. I can also see there's a lower branch that was hidden behind the trunk in the first image.
Unfortunately I'm not so good at making a 3D vision in my head from a series of 2D images. I can provide some possible options but you will still need to make sure what I imagine is really there.
ALWAYS take online advice with plenty of salt and check carefully before committing to any course of action. What someone sees in a phot may not necessarily be there in real life.

Another couple of possible design options for your tree.
Because I can't make out where some of the branches end up I can't fully commit to either.
Both are probably lesser quality that could be developed with Franks harder chop but these will give you something like a bonsai in less time - say 2-4 years. both appear to make better use of the existing trunk bends and direction.
Option 2:
View attachment 547438
Cut at red lines. Lower left branch to be removed entirely. Most of the others cut back to encourage more shoots to emerge to create better branching. Remaining branches bent in teh direction of yellow arrows to spread the canopy.

Option 3 is from the other side.
View attachment 547439
Again, remove branches marked red entirely. Cut branches marked blue short to encourage more shoots and branch ramification. Bend remaining branches in direction of arrows.

One of the reasons for 2 opposite options is that I can't fully make out where the upper branches that will be the new trunk lines go. The new apex needs to be slightly forward of the trunk base. Not sure if the ones I've chosen are coming forward enough or too much - need on ground proofing to decide.
2nd option tries to use that lowest branch but it needs to grow toward the side rather than directly to the front. Need to check whether that can be physically achieved or just remove it and go for a larger tree.

Sorry for giving you so many different options to think about. In the end only one will become the tree. If all seem to be good then it does not matter which you choose.

Once again, these responses are amazing and have so much valuable information. I think I will most likely stick to option 2 as I like the way the branches would be positioned. Do you think I should wait until next year after repotting to make this larger cuts?

 

[Shibui]

Japanese maple can be cut any time of year. I prefer late Spring and early Summer or early Winter for my area. The spring/summer option gives the tree time to grow again in the same season. The early winter option is good because I can see the entire structure without leaves so it is easier to plan and execute. I avoid pruning maples later in winter or early spring as they tend to bleed a lot if cut when the sap is rising.
Another time to prune maples hard is when repotting. They don't seem to have any problem with prune and root prune in one operation.
Leave it up to you to decide - soon and get a quick response OR spend time thinking and getting used to the idea then prune next season.

 

[River's Edge]

I would see the approach proposed by @River's Edge as just the start of growing a new bonsai. The trunk and new branches would all grow and develop over the next 5-10 years and probably be above - where your tree is now.
Frank's proposal and reasoning are valid but, as he says, others will see other options. Please see below.

The new photos give much better look at the trunk and branches - where they start and which directions they grow in which is all valuable info when making design decisions. I can also see there's a lower branch that was hidden behind the trunk in the first image.
Unfortunately I'm not so good at making a 3D vision in my head from a series of 2D images. I can provide some possible options but you will still need to make sure what I imagine is really there.
ALWAYS take online advice with plenty of salt and check carefully before committing to any course of action. What someone sees in a phot may not necessarily be there in real life.

Another couple of possible design options for your tree.
Because I can't make out where some of the branches end up I can't fully commit to either.
Both are probably lesser quality that could be developed with Franks harder chop but these will give you something like a bonsai in less time - say 2-4 years. both appear to make better use of the existing trunk bends and direction.
Option 2:
View attachment 547438
Cut at red lines. Lower left branch to be removed entirely. Most of the others cut back to encourage more shoots to emerge to create better branching. Remaining branches bent in teh direction of yellow arrows to spread the canopy.

Option 3 is from the other side.
View attachment 547439
Again, remove branches marked red entirely. Cut branches marked blue short to encourage more shoots and branch ramification. Bend remaining branches in direction of arrows.

One of the reasons for 2 opposite options is that I can't fully make out where the upper branches that will be the new trunk lines go. The new apex needs to be slightly forward of the trunk base. Not sure if the ones I've chosen are coming forward enough or too much - need on ground proofing to decide.
2nd option tries to use that lowest branch but it needs to grow toward the side rather than directly to the front. Need to check whether that can be physically achieved or just remove it and go for a larger tree.

Sorry for giving you so many different options to think about. In the end only one will become the tree. If all seem to be good then it does not matter which you choose.

Excellent reasoning. One can obscure the fault in the trunk with the planting angle and break up the node length with an additional branch. Perhaps over time the trunk thickness can be adjusted with sacrifice branches to improve taper in the one lengthier section. Reasonable alternatives to consider. Nice work @Shibui

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Acer Palmatum (Japanese Maple) #5

A palmatum from seed. Grew well this year. Figure id start a thread.

www.bonsainut.com

 

[BThibodeaux]

Excellent thread... thanks for sharing all this.

 

[isaaquitas]

I would see the approach proposed by @River's Edge as just the start of growing a new bonsai. The trunk and new branches would all grow and develop over the next 5-10 years and probably be above - where your tree is now.
Frank's proposal and reasoning are valid but, as he says, others will see other options. Please see below.

The new photos give much better look at the trunk and branches - where they start and which directions they grow in which is all valuable info when making design decisions. I can also see there's a lower branch that was hidden behind the trunk in the first image.
Unfortunately I'm not so good at making a 3D vision in my head from a series of 2D images. I can provide some possible options but you will still need to make sure what I imagine is really there.
ALWAYS take online advice with plenty of salt and check carefully before committing to any course of action. What someone sees in a phot may not necessarily be there in real life.

Another couple of possible design options for your tree.
Because I can't make out where some of the branches end up I can't fully commit to either.
Both are probably lesser quality that could be developed with Franks harder chop but these will give you something like a bonsai in less time - say 2-4 years. both appear to make better use of the existing trunk bends and direction.
Option 2:
View attachment 547438
Cut at red lines. Lower left branch to be removed entirely. Most of the others cut back to encourage more shoots to emerge to create better branching. Remaining branches bent in teh direction of yellow arrows to spread the canopy.

Option 3 is from the other side.
View attachment 547439
Again, remove branches marked red entirely. Cut branches marked blue short to encourage more shoots and branch ramification. Bend remaining branches in direction of arrows.

One of the reasons for 2 opposite options is that I can't fully make out where the upper branches that will be the new trunk lines go. The new apex needs to be slightly forward of the trunk base. Not sure if the ones I've chosen are coming forward enough or too much - need on ground proofing to decide.
2nd option tries to use that lowest branch but it needs to grow toward the side rather than directly to the front. Need to check whether that can be physically achieved or just remove it and go for a larger tree.

Sorry for giving you so many different options to think about. In the end only one will become the tree. If all seem to be good then it does not matter which you choose.

Thanks so much for all the advice. I choose option 2. Here is a picture of it.

 

[Paradox]

Thanks so much for all the advice. I choose option 2. Here is a picture of it. View attachment 551552

Looks good

 

[Perplexody]

Thanks so much for all the advice. I choose option 2. Here is a picture of it. View attachment 551552

Wiring is much better this time around, better than I see some people who have been growing trees for years
Quite a cool little tree. I'm looking forward to seeing the progression

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Awesome! Is that wire actually doing anything? If its not, Id just remove it.

 

[Gabler]

Awesome! Is that wire actually doing anything? If its not, Id just remove it.

If you're referring to this branch, I would pull it down just a little bit. A very gentle bend along the whole length of the branch. If it weren't already wired out, I'd be inclined to use a guy wire to pull it down.

 

[isaaquitas]

Looks good

Thanks

 

[isaaquitas]

Wiring is much better this time around, better than I see some people who have been growing trees for years
Quite a cool little tree. I'm looking forward to seeing the progression

Thanks

 

[isaaquitas]

Awesome! Is that wire actually doing anything? If its not, Id just remove it.

Yeah, it's not a lot but it is bringing down some of the branches slightly

 

[isaaquitas]

If you're referring to this branch, I would pull it down just a little bit. A very gentle bend along the whole length of the branch. If it weren't already wired out, I'd be inclined to use a guy wire to pull it down.

View attachment 551576

Thanks, I will try doing that

 

[Paradox]

Thanks, I will try doing that

Do it gently

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks so much for all the advice. I choose option 2. Here is a picture of it. View attachment 551552

The lower right branch is wired in a good position. I would not lower it before I considered the following aspect. As currently designed the trunk has a fairly straight paperless section that extends from below the lowest branch to well above it. illustrated in a marked up picture attached! the right side with the lower branch wired as is shows a near perfect trunk movement and taper for development of an informal upright maple!
If you lower the right branch it will ruin that foundation. if you decide later that you are not as happy with the straight section the right section will no longer be as nice an opportunity for development.
pictures are difficult to work with, but that being said. I would suggest checking the length and taper of the section I have noted before deciding to lower the right branch.
Perhaps a bit picky and seeking a higher level result, but I would sure kick myself if I spoiled that future possibility! it is very easy to graft branches where needed but much more difficult to develop a nice trunk line with both movement and taper!

 

[isaaquitas]

The lower right branch is wired in a good position. I would not lower it before I considered the following aspect. As currently designed the trunk has a fairly straight paperless section that extends from below the lowest branch to well above it. illustrated in a marked up picture attached! the right side with the lower branch wired as is shows a near perfect trunk movement and taper for development of an informal upright maple!
If you lower the right branch it will ruin that foundation. if you decide later that you are not as happy with the straight section the right section will no longer be as nice an opportunity for development.
pictures are difficult to work with, but that being said. I would suggest checking the length and taper of the section I have noted before deciding to lower the right branch.
Perhaps a bit picky and seeking a higher level result, but I would sure kick myself if I spoiled that future possibility! it is very easy to graft branches where needed but much more difficult to develop a nice trunk line with both movement and taper!

View attachment 551722View attachment 551723View attachment 551724

Thanks for the detailed reply. So to check if I understood what you said are you suggesting I keep the lower right branch as it is so that if I decide to cut the whole of the left side off the tree and only keep that lower right branch it would create a better tree? Could you let me know if this cut is what you were originally suggesting?

 

[Gabler]

@River's Edge knows more about this than I do. Take his advice seriously.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks for the detailed reply. So to check if I understood what you said are you suggesting I keep the lower right branch as it is so that if I decide to cut the whole of the left side off the tree and only keep that lower right branch it would create a better tree? Could you let me know if this cut is what you were originally suggesting?

Yes and Yes! From a detailed perspective for design seeking the best possible form for the material being considered.
1. the trunk line is the key to quality along with nebari.
2. the tree is young and still under development in Bonsai terms, not a finished or designed tree! its of time for development and refinement. With only one section to correct on the trunk line. it already has a very nice lower portion or in other words a great start.
3. desirable trunk characteristics for informal upright include a combination of movement and taper. This combination should display shorter internodes and progressive taper as the trunk develops from bottom to top. Each progressive section from bottom to top should be shorter in length and progressive in taper while continuing the movement beginning at the base. So id the base has gentle turns that should continue further up!
if you choose to develop the left side you are keeping a longer straight section with little or no taper beside a base that has nice curve and taper in the beginning. Also the second section above the lower right branch is a longer internode ( section) than the one below the first branch even though it is the same width. This actual creates visually a much loner and more obvious straight section for the trunk line. Not desirable!

Many would be satisfied with and happier to have less work to do and a shorter time frame to get to a more finished look on the bench! Not everyone works toward developing higher quality trees. However, you did ask for advice and I feel you should understand what you are giving up in terms of quality if you keep the left and change the angle of the lower right branch.
It is hard to point out possibilities without expressing judgement. I am comfortable with whatever you decide for your tree.
thanks for considering my comments.