Brussels soil mix

Bob Hunter

Shohin
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USDA Zone
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Just received some small JWP from Brussels the soil is still soggy after shipping and no water for 3 days and no fine roots they just pull off. I would recommend to bare root in spring and put them in A/P/L Boons mix

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I don't know how comfortable I would be leaving it soggy like that all winter.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I recently confirmed with Brussel's about their current soil blend.

I bought three entry-level potted bonsai from them last month and they all use an updated soil blend (looks nothing like the soil in the original post).

Their current blend is 50% "high-fired aggregate" and 50% pine bark. Probably still not great, but an improvement vs what they seemingly used to use and ship their bonsai in. Not sure about he exact identity of the aggregate (I'll update if they reply to my question).
 
I know this is an old thread, but I recently confirmed with Brussel's about their current soil blend.

I bought three entry-level potted bonsai from them last month and they all use an updated soil blend (looks nothing like the soil in the original post).

Their current blend is 50% "high-fired aggregate" and 50% pine bark. Probably still not great, but an improvement vs what they seemingly used to use and ship their bonsai in. Not sure about he exact identity of the aggregate (I'll update if they reply to my question).
What did you end up doing? I just got two trident maples from them and the soil is still pretty muggy from the trip. I feel like I should repot into a more free-draining mix but I’m worried that it’s already may.
 
What did you end up doing? I just got two trident maples from them and the soil is still pretty muggy from the trip. I feel like I should repot into a more free-draining mix but I’m worried that it’s already may.
I ended up repotting the Chinese elm, which had started to grow out but is generally considered bulletproof. I also did not bare root during the repot and left most of the roots and current soil untouched - it was more of a slip pot to a larger development container than anything else.

I left my Japanese maple alone though as most of the buds had pushed new growth already and I didn't want to risk it.

If you are only know deciding whether or not to repot, I would opt to wait until winter or next spring.
 
I ended up repotting the Chinese elm, which had started to grow out but is generally considered bulletproof. I also did not bare root during the repot and left most of the roots and current soil untouched - it was more of a slip pot to a larger development container than anything else.

I left my Japanese maple alone though as most of the buds had pushed new growth already and I didn't want to risk it.

If you are only know deciding whether or not to repot, I would opt to wait until winter or next spring.
Yeah I was sorta simply trying to decide if I should repot in early May in 8b (DFW) for these two trident maples. They are my first maples, and usually it’s recommended to repot in early spring before they leaf out from what I’ve read - however I’m not sure if this soil is really so terrible that an emergency repotting is recommended.
 
I would not repot it, but make sure to only water it when it needs it. Maybe use the chopstick method to determine when it needs water.
 
Yeah I was sorta simply trying to decide if I should repot in early May in 8b (DFW) for these two trident maples. They are my first maples, and usually it’s recommended to repot in early spring before they leaf out from what I’ve read - however I’m not sure if this soil is really so terrible that an emergency repotting is recommended.
It's really not bad. It drains relatively well because of the aggregate calcine clay. The only concern is how decomposed the pine bark is. If it's relatively fresh, it's actually pretty good (drains well, holds moisture, holds nutrients).

I only repotted the Elm because I knew it could take the stress. Honestly probably not the best move as it could have easily made it through the season in Brussel's mix.
 
I agree with @TrevorLarsen . Just watch the soil and water when it needs it until the right time. I’ve had more problems rushing a healthy tree in crap soil into bonsai soil. Nowadays if it’s not a life or death emergency with obvious signs of stress, let er rip until a better repot time.
 
As far as Brussels soil goes, I’ve had nothing but bad luck with it, it’s all in my vegetable garden tilled in now and I will never pot a tree in it. Ever again.
I don’t know if the proportions are off or what but it dries unevenly. Either the outside is bone dry and compacted, the inside is still saturated. Or visa versa I had to watch my watering carefully down here while maintaining any tree in it until spring. It’s so humid a soggy pot will never dry out.
I don’t shop with Brussels. Underhill bonsai in Folsom, Louisiana has an excellent soil mix that’s proven. They grow everything in it and I know some very reputable artists that swear by it. You cannot overwater with it. No better soil, for me, for my trees in this climate than what Underhill has to offer.
 
It's really not bad. It drains relatively well because of the aggregate calcine clay. The only concern is how decomposed the pine bark is. If it's relatively fresh, it's actually pretty good (drains well, holds moisture, holds nutrients).

I only repotted the Elm because I knew it could take the stress. Honestly probably not the best move as it could have easily made it through the season in Brussel's mix.
Yeah, I’m not saying it’s the worst soil ever - just based on how it looks, how it drains, how it feels, etc. I was just a little concerned about the tree holding up the rest of this growing season.

I’ll attach two photos here of the soil as soon as I put them on the bench. After looking at it again this morning, I’m pretty confident you are both right and it’ll be fine. It drains fairly well, just not as much as my usual mix. It’s also possible the roots are pretty dense within the pot contributing to what I’m seeing.
 

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You can always up the pot to a larger pot. I am still repotting junipers here in Tennessee, having fallen behind due to work travel. The roots don't look too established, and you can pull them out easily. Be gentle, chopstick the soil; it would be easier on the drier side so you don't tear into the roots. You can also wash the soil with a pressure hose and see how much soil you can wash off. Then, put it into a medium of your choice. Your aftercare is essential depending on the root and soil removed.
 
My Trident clump came from Matt Smith...but he sold Brussels trees.

Mine came in their soil years ago... I found to water accordingly they do fine. The nursery is established...and have trees that thrive in the medium they use...or they would all be dead. Learn to water accordingly...and repot when the window is best.

I don't understand...why ones don't understand to just water accordingly. Their trees aren't dead on their benches. They/Brussels have been around a good long time.

Same with landscape plants turned into bonsai. Water accordingly...and they will be fine. Repot when window is prime.
 
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