Breaking Dormancy

[DonovanC]

I have several trees that have broken dormancy already - I assume it’s too warm in my basement. My larch has already started opening up, all the others are just swelling. The temperature here ( Zone 6a) is getting up in the 40s and lower 50s, so I’ve started bringing my trees out when the temperature is nice then bringing them back in when necessary. The temperature has only been dropping at night (upper 20s), and according to the forecast, this is how it’ll be for at least a while. Any tips on protecting them until the last frost (beginning of May) Should I keep doing what I’m doing? Or would a little frost at night be ok?

Juniper (commonus, Shimpaku, unsure of others)
Emperor Japanese maple
Larch
White pine
Trident maple
Eastern redbud
Hornbeam
Cherry (Romeo)

I hope this is enough information.

 

[Colorado]

Somebody with more experience than me should chime in. But I think it would be problematic to introduce a tree that has been in your basement all winter to sub-freezing temperatures at this point. I’d wait for it to warm up a bit before you move them outside.

The trees need an acclimation period in the fall in order to survive cold winter environments.

 

[Tieball]

I agree with Colorado...the acclimation time.....and a bad idea to move the trees outside right now.

I looked at your list...really....for next year....
Except for the Japanese Maple (just because I’m not sure) all of those trees belong outdoors....right through the winter. All year. Not in a basement.

For next year, with the trees outdoors, it's unlikely that they will break dormancy so early. Possibly......but not likely in my experience. If they do break early...some frost protection can be helpful. Those trees like a good cold winter chill....and lots of snow. My trees are all outdoors....ground level. I do provide a windblock screen around them as I can be sub-zero several weeks with the frigid -25 windchills frequently. Other than that windscreen....I don’t water or provide any other special treatment. Just outdoors.

Your call for indoors or outdoors but I’d suggest you read up on the winter tolerance of the trees. And others will likely chime in here with strategic opinions.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

For now, I wouldn’t subject trees which have leafed out to freezing temperatures. This is the problem with growing trees outside of your zone, or in a too-warm winter setup. This spring growth should be the strongest flush of the year, and you’re likely getting big leaves and long internode growth (etiolated), which will need to be cut back when they go outside.

Do you have a garage that you can overwinter them in next year? Something that will encourage deep dormancy until they’re able to go outside in April?

 

[JudyB]

Sounds like you'll have to do the shuffle.... in at night and out during the day. I would not let them freeze at this point.

 

[DonovanC]

I agree with Colorado...the acclimation time.....and a bad idea to move the trees outside right now.

I looked at your list...really....for next year....
Except for the Japanese Maple (just because I’m not sure) all of those trees belong outdoors....right through the winter. All year. Not in a basement.

For next year, with the trees outdoors, it's unlikely that they will break dormancy so early. Possibly......but not likely in my experience. If they do break early...some frost protection can be helpful. Those trees like a good cold winter chill....and lots of snow. My trees are all outdoors....ground level. I do provide a windblock screen around them as I can be sub-zero several weeks with the frigid -25 windchills frequently. Other than that windscreen....I don’t water or provide any other special treatment. Just outdoors.

Your call for indoors or outdoors but I’d suggest you read up on the winter tolerance of the trees. And others will likely chime in here with strategic opinions.

Thanks for the input - I considered leaving them all out as I’m well familiar with each trees winter tolerance, all of my outdoor trees are fine for my zone and lower, I guess I just got nervous when the temperature started going sub-zero and went against my better judgement. But I’ve learned from it, now I just hope I haven’t done too much damage.
So even when temperatures are sub-zero (-6 is the lowest actual temperature that we’ve had) your trees do fine on the bench?
For the remainder of the frost season, I guess I’m stuck moving them in and out?

 

[DonovanC]

For now, I wouldn’t subject trees which have leafed out to freezing temperatures. This is the problem with growing trees outside of your zone, or in a too-warm winter setup. This spring growth should be the strongest flush of the year, and you’re likely getting big leaves and long internode growth (etiolated), which will need to be cut back when they go outside.

Do you have a garage that you can overwinter them in next year? Something that will encourage deep dormancy until they’re able to go outside in April?

Thank you, I don’t currently have any other option other than the basement, but by next winter I’ll have a greenhouse that they can go in if I get nervous again. I’m learning that I should have just left the trees alone - and that I should have just asked lol. My trees are all suitable for my zone, so this is a problem that I’ve created. For next year I’ll just leave them be or put them in the greenhouse.

 

[DonovanC]

Sounds like you'll have to do the shuffle.... in at night and out during the day. I would not let them freeze at this point.

That’s what I assumed/was afraid of lol. I have like 20-some trees, so now I’m really kicking myself, but if that’s what I have to do. At least I know what to do for next winter.

 

[DonovanC]

Thank you all for the help! I wish I would have asked for advice before making the decision to bring them in for the winter, but at least I’m learning from this.

 

[DonovanC]

Somebody with more experience than me should chime in. But I think it would be problematic to introduce a tree that has been in your basement all winter to sub-freezing temperatures at this point. I’d wait for it to warm up a bit before you move them outside.

The trees need an acclimation period in the fall in order to survive cold winter environments.

I left the trees out for the beginning of the winter, so I guess they would have been fine. Thanks for the advice, I guess I’m stuck with my decision now. But I’ll know better for next winter.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Even leaving them out all winter may not work with some of those if this trend in warm early spring temperature pattern becomes the new normal. I wintered my larches, bald cypress and some J maples outsode but they all now have buds on them and in the cas of the maples leaves and like you I am in zone 7. However, my juniper, spruces, hemlock, and hinoki are all still dormant as are my hornbeam, Am. Beech, and hawthorns. So it is a mixed bag. Nkstead of soing the shuffle I may just give in and buy a small greenhouse for the early spring bud poppers.

 

[DonovanC]

Even leaving them out all winter may not work with some of those if this trend in warm early spring temperature pattern becomes the new normal. I wintered my larches, bald cypress and some J maples outsode but they all now have buds on them and in the cas of the maples leaves and like you I am in zone 7. However, my juniper, spruces, hemlock, and hinoki are all still dormant as are my hornbeam, Am. Beech, and hawthorns. So it is a mixed bag. Nkstead of soing the shuffle I may just give in and buy a small greenhouse for the early spring bud poppers.

In your experience, what damage is done when they break dormancy and are then hit with a hard freeze? I’m curious of the damage that might happen if I miss a frost and forget to bring them back in and they freeze after the buds are out.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Depending on the species, its health, and its inherent susceptibility you may see poor, stunted, or distored growth, a greater susceptibility to disease, and if it is a strong freeze, death.

 

[Tieball]

In your experience, what damage is done when they break dormancy and are then hit with a hard freeze? I’m curious of the damage that might happen if I miss a frost and forget to bring them back in and they freeze after the buds are out.

I had Hackberry Celtis Sinensis trees outside all winter. Worked very well. In spring last year we had a hard frost in May. The new shoots and leaves that had opened in April took it hard. There were blackened and dead....that quick too...overnight. No prolonged maybe or maybe not period.

I just shook my head and pinched off all of that destroyed growth that died after the frost. The buds at the stem connection seem to be naturally protected. Two weeks later the tree put out all new growth that stayed....healthy as if the frost had never happened. At that time I figured if there was going to be another frost I would go out late evening and thoroughly mist the trees. I’ve done this before. The mist would freeze creating a protective cover that naturally melts off with the morning rise back up in temperatures.

 

[DonovanC]

I had Hackberry Celtis Sinensis trees outside all winter. Worked very well. In spring last year we had a hard frost in May. The new shoots and leaves that had opened in April took it hard. There were blackened and dead....that quick too...overnight. No prolonged maybe or maybe not period.

I just shook my head and pinched off all of that destroyed growth that died after the frost. The buds at the stem connection seem to be naturally protected. Two weeks later the tree put out all new growth that stayed....healthy as if the frost had never happened. At that time I figured if there was going to be another frost I would go out late evening and thoroughly mist the trees. I’ve done this before. The mist would freeze creating a protective cover that naturally melts off with the morning rise back up in temperatures.

Thanks for sharing - I’ve not heard about misting, that’s a really good idea! Thanks!