Boxwood trunk dilemma

[TestedPuddle]

Hey everybody,
I’ve been a long time lurker but for some reason never decided to make an account. But I’d like to get some different ideas on what to do about the trunk on this boxwood that I acquired not too long ago (see photos).

as you’ll find, it’s got two nice thick trunks that split about an inch(maybe 2) above the current soil line. The trunk base is right around 2-2.5” depending on the angle, with a total height of around 12”. Originally, I was just going to do a formal upright and call it good. But I think there may be some better ideas I could play with. The one biggest thing for me is I hate how close the trunks are to eachother.
Somebody suggested using a wedge to separate them. But due to the hardness of the tissue I think I would need to make a cut down the middle where they originate from the trunk base.
I also had the thought of maybe (don’t know if it’s possible with this species) to do a wedge cut on each of those two main trunks to get them to bend away from eachother and have a multi-trunk/clump style tree.
I guess I’m just not sure what path would be best to ensure survival and the best possible aesthetic for the tree overall. I want to preserve as much of this old wood as possible. Is it possible to make wedge cuts on buxus?

 

[JonW]

Not sure about the wedge cut, but I'd either find a way to incorporate the parallel trunks into the design or remove one of the upright trunks with a cut facing the back, so it wouldn't even be visible as the tree heals. The issue with that is that its likely the trunks only have growth on the outside (not on the side next to the other trunk, where is it shaded out and blocked).

 

[BrianBay9]

Perhaps saw straight down the center through the root ball and work with two trees? Rotate each to hide the cut to the back?

 

[sorce]

I'd start by cutting off the more upward growing small outer trunk.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

 

[Forsoothe!]

Live with it. It is an interesting form, and unusual. That which you cannot disguise can be made into a feature, and a nice one, even if you don't like it. If you put this up for trade, you might find what you are looking for. I await, in the bushes...

If you go to the upper right hand corner and click on your Icon, you can add your location and people will be able to customize advice for you. In the bar at the top of the B’Nut page you are on are four symbols: right to left is a magnifying glass for searching; a bell for the number of notices for you; a letter for the number of private messages for you; and your logo where all your preferences are accessible. If you left click on your logo you can see “ Account Details”. Left click on that and you can scroll down to location and enter as specifically or generally as you like.

 

[TestedPuddle]

I'd start by cutting off the more upward growing small outer trunk.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

I'd start by cutting off the more upward growing small outer trunk.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

Thanks Sorce, I hadn’t decided on a plan for those side trunks yet. I think it was one of your threads I was reading about your method of pruning back to two leaves (I’m assuming ones with viable buds) twice per year to speed up ramification. I remember it was supposed to be just before two periods of active growth. Im assuming I’ve missed the mark for this springs initial cutback? I’m also curious, with this method, do you strictly directionally prune, or do you also wire? I’m not too familiar with boxwood, but it seems like it’ll just want to grow vertical.

 

[TestedPuddle]

Live with it. It is an interesting form, and unusual. That which you cannot disguise can be made into a feature, and a nice one, even if you don't like it. If you put this up for trade, you might find what you are looking for. I await, in the bushes...
View attachment 366721
If you go to the upper right hand corner and click on your Icon, you can add your location and people will be able to customize advice for you. In the bar at the top of the B’Nut page you are on are four symbols: right to left is a magnifying glass for searching; a bell for the number of notices for you; a letter for the number of private messages for you; and your logo where all your preferences are accessible. If you left click on your logo you can see “ Account Details”. Left click on that and you can scroll down to location and enter as specifically or generally as you like.

Thanks for the info, still learning the ways of this site. I’m going to keep it until at least next season to see if I can find something I like in it. If not, maybe a trade will be in order.

 

[TestedPuddle]

Not sure about the wedge cut, but I'd either find a way to incorporate the parallel trunks into the design or remove one of the upright trunks with a cut facing the back, so it wouldn't even be visible as the tree heals. The issue with that is that its likely the trunks only have growth on the outside (not on the side next to the other trunk, where is it shaded out and blocked).

Surprisingly it actually has a good amount of branches originating from in between the two trunks.

 

[TestedPuddle]

Perhaps saw straight down the center through the root ball and work with two trees? Rotate each to hide the cut to the back?

I was thinking this may be a possible solution.

 

[sorce]

pruning back to two leaves

"Proper nexts"?

I call it proper nexts specifically because it's not always 2 leaves.

I don't like "cut back to 2 leaves" since no one till Bjorn spoke of the budless leaf.

For me, it is a specific instruction for a vague outcome.

Proper nexts is a vague instruction for a specific outcome, it also makes people actually think about what proper means.

Proper includes directionality.

You can probably wire young shoots that need to grow into branches, but after that clip and grow and all forms of untraditional wiring works best.

You're not really to the point with this where you have to worry about ramification. Actually, at this point I only worry about ....antiramification.

"Antiramification" (this is a new word, old concept) is the act of keeping close keeper parts free of triples and bulges, while letting the outside stuff go to increase branch thickness.
Keeping the keeper parts tidy before you cut back to them is paramount to having something worth cutting back to!
This could be anything from removing spring buds, to old branches....to that trunk.

I don't think you'll happily get a saw in to cut a big trunk. Plus, with a slight rotation of the pot, you can make one look smaller than the other, or even make them look as one. Cutting one off is going to leave you with a shrub in a pot that says, "someone tried to make this look like a bonsai" forever!

Though, with it's evergreeness, you can hide a lot.

You're not passed any time. I'd cut off everything you don't intend to keep. Clean the slate, "draw" the future in your mind, and keep it tidied for it.

Sorce

 

[PaulH]

Nice tree! Since you bought it from me here's what I would have done. I think this tree is a perfect candidate for an oak style. Let the new growth extend until mid summer and then select branches and wire movement into them while they are still flexible. Remove all un-needed branches. Repeat each season with secondary and tertiary branches as they bud out. Boxwoods back bud like crazy if well fed. In the mean time study photos examples of oak trees for inspiration. Multiple branching trunks is often an integral feature of oaks. Removing any of the trunks would create a large scar and boxwoods do not heal over wounds easily.

 

[TestedPuddle]

"Proper nexts"?

I call it proper nexts specifically because it's not always 2 leaves.

I don't like "cut back to 2 leaves" since no one till Bjorn spoke of the budless leaf.

For me, it is a specific instruction for a vague outcome.

Proper nexts is a vague instruction for a specific outcome, it also makes people actually think about what proper means.

Proper includes directionality.

You can probably wire young shoots that need to grow into branches, but after that clip and grow and all forms of untraditional wiring works best.

You're not really to the point with this where you have to worry about ramification. Actually, at this point I only worry about ....antiramification.

"Antiramification" (this is a new word, old concept) is the act of keeping close keeper parts free of triples and bulges, while letting the outside stuff go to increase branch thickness.
Keeping the keeper parts tidy before you cut back to them is paramount to having something worth cutting back to!
This could be anything from removing spring buds, to old branches....to that trunk.

I don't think you'll happily get a saw in to cut a big trunk. Plus, with a slight rotation of the pot, you can make one look smaller than the other, or even make them look as one. Cutting one off is going to leave you with a shrub in a pot that says, "someone tried to make this look like a bonsai" forever!

Though, with it's evergreeness, you can hide a lot.

You're not passed any time. I'd cut off everything you don't intend to keep. Clean the slate, "draw" the future in your mind, and keep it tidied for it.

Sorce

Nice tree! Since you bought it from me here's what I would have done. I think this tree is a perfect candidate for an oak style. Let the new growth extend until mid summer and then select branches and wire movement into them while they are still flexible. Remove all un-needed branches. Repeat each season with secondary and tertiary branches as they bud out. Boxwoods back bud like crazy if well fed. In the mean time study photos examples of oak trees for inspiration. Multiple branching trunks is often an integral feature of oaks. Removing any of the trunks would create a large scar and boxwoods do not heal over wounds easily.

This is probably what I will end up with in the end. Just really was trying to find out if there would be a reliable way to spread the main two trunks apart a bit.

 

[sorce]

apart a bit.

Not safely I reckon.

Once...or if.. you get it going, it won't stop.

Besides I think separating them will bring more attention to their sameness.

Sorce

 

[Sekibonsai]

Here is one no one has thrown out.

Do a slight rotation in one direction or another to eliminate the whole sling shot appearance of the trunks with a boring symmetrical base. This will deemphasize that there is two trunks in the middle. The two outer trunks should be developed to have foliage pads at different levels so they don't look so much like bar branches.

OR

What about whacking/air layer one or the other back to lose some of the post-iness and create some differences in height. Get it headed off in a new direction outward maybe.

I would probably start with a good wire out or tying down of all the branches to sort out the whole mess and see what you have to work with. Then you might have a clearer idea of a path forward. I am initially inclined to lose the whole right center trunk and keep it at 3, doing some carving, hollowing maybe, 4 being unlucky and in this case redundant...

 

[Sekibonsai]

"Proper nexts"?

I call it proper nexts specifically because it's not always 2 leaves.

I don't like "cut back to 2 leaves" since no one till Bjorn spoke of the budless leaf.

For me, it is a specific instruction for a vague outcome.

Proper nexts is a vague instruction for a specific outcome, it also makes people actually think about what proper means.

Proper includes directionality.

You can probably wire young shoots that need to grow into branches, but after that clip and grow and all forms of untraditional wiring works best.

You're not really to the point with this where you have to worry about ramification. Actually, at this point I only worry about ....antiramification.

"Antiramification" (this is a new word, old concept) is the act of keeping close keeper parts free of triples and bulges, while letting the outside stuff go to increase branch thickness.
Keeping the keeper parts tidy before you cut back to them is paramount to having something worth cutting back to!
This could be anything from removing spring buds, to old branches....to that trunk.

I don't think you'll happily get a saw in to cut a big trunk. Plus, with a slight rotation of the pot, you can make one look smaller than the other, or even make them look as one. Cutting one off is going to leave you with a shrub in a pot that says, "someone tried to make this look like a bonsai" forever!

Though, with it's evergreeness, you can hide a lot.

You're not passed any time. I'd cut off everything you don't intend to keep. Clean the slate, "draw" the future in your mind, and keep it tidied for it.

Sorce

Guess no one says check for buds at the base... one would think a no-brainer.

I like the whole defoliate and leave leaves at the tip... get some good popping going on.

Another tip I've learned is leave two pops from one point where a branch is desired... let grow out then eliminate one - I guess the photosynthetic freight train at that point helps with the thickening of both branches vs. only one. Something to try out...

 

[Sekibonsai]

Oops It seems Sorce did mention rotating above.

 

[TestedPuddle]

Here is one no one has thrown out.

Do a slight rotation in one direction or another to eliminate the whole sling shot appearance of the trunks with a boring symmetrical base. This will deemphasize that there is two trunks in the middle. The two outer trunks should be developed to have foliage pads at different levels so they don't look so much like bar branches.

OR

What about whacking/air layer one or the other back to lose some of the post-iness and create some differences in height. Get it headed off in a new direction outward maybe.

I would probably start with a good wire out or tying down of all the branches to sort out the whole mess and see what you have to work with. Then you might have a clearer idea of a path forward. I am initially inclined to lose the whole right center trunk and keep it at 3, doing some carving, hollowing maybe, 4 being unlucky and in this case redundant...

I do like the idea of possibly air layering one of the outer branches and carving what’s left into a small Jin... it would give some room to work with the main trunks. At which point I could rotate the tree and have a little bit of a better silhouette.

 

[Sekibonsai]

I do like the idea of possibly air layering one of the outer branches and carving what’s left into a small Jin... it would give some room to work with the main trunks. At which point I could rotate the tree and have a little bit of a better silhouette.

I would air layer one of the main trunks... Give you a chance to develop one with taper and movement in the upper part...

 

[TestedPuddle]

I would air layer one of the main trunks... Give you a chance to develop one with taper and movement in the upper part...

I thought of that, still in the back of my mind. It would be difficult though as there is only a few millimeters between the two main trunks