Bio-stimulant Hydroponics

[cmeg1]

started adding cane molasses to my nutrient.
In ways to get more food for the rhizosphere.To get the benefits of microbes making more bio available nutrients and giving the plant photosynthesis a break so it can have a surplus of sugers and make high brix!!!
Although I hear its good not to go overboard with microbes.

Maybe half strength...but this inert media I use.Probably not an issue.

Goodbye from Maximum Yield

In print and online, Maximum Yield is your source for cannabis and cultivation knowledge, with informative grow articles and tips to enhance your life with mmj.

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[NateDav]

Cmeg, I use Botanicare Liquid Karma for all the exact listings you so graciously posted. It has most, if not all the biostimulants you mentioned. All packaged in one bottle and at a fair price! Previously I mixed my own using 4 and even 5 different products... Now I just use Liquid Karma weekly in addition to my dry fertilizer regimen. Far easier and with nearly identical results.

 

[cmeg1]

Cmeg, I use Botanicare Liquid Karma for all the exact listings you so graciously posted. It has most, if not all the biostimulants you mentioned. All packaged in one bottle and at a fair price! Previously I mixed my own using 4 and even 5 different products... Now I just use Liquid Karma weekly in addition to my dry fertilizer regimen. Far easier and with nearly identical results.

Thanks
Yes,the Karm is good stuff.I got a gallon that have not used in awhile.
I use the powders so I can really dial in the formulas...down to the ppm’s in some instances!!!
I buy bulk everything too to keep the business afloat.
I am also putting the 5:2 ratio of humic acid/kelp formula researched by Virginia Tech.Supposed to initiate adp and sod ( free radical oxide busters) that have been found to greatly sustain the health of plants.Makes 50% more of this in the plants.

Karma rocks though...so does the extra iron in their Calmag Plus.Also the Fulvex is the bomb!!!Look at the seedling below when I used to use botanicare formulas.The most vivid green color on such a young seedling.... very low strength nutrient too.......

 

[Forsoothe!]

I'm using Fulmic @3 + Kelp @ 3 + Humic @ 8 grams/quart (water) watering, periodically. Does that sound right to you?

 

[cmeg1]

I'm using Fulmic @3 + Kelp @ 3 + Humic @ 8 grams/quart (water) watering, periodically. Does that sound right to you?

If powders its easy.If liquids,not so sure.depends on percentage of bio-stimulant.
Without over thinking it ,I choose powders that the hydro teacher produces and that he initially recommended the 5:2 ratio that Virginia Tech did and he advocates.
There we go ......I GOT THE 5:2
Powders ends up being for me is 1/16th tsp fulvic acid,1/16 humic,1/16th kelp.
Or 1/8th any humic substance,1/16th tsp kelp.

essentially the kelp is half the humic.......proven to make 50% more plant protection agents than either product on there own.

I like some fulvic mixed in for nutrient absorption although humic does have a fraction of fulvic also.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Humic

Fulvic

Kelp

 

[cmeg1]

Humic

Fulvic

Kelp

Powders are more economical
I learned hydro from owner of NPK ,Harley Smith.

His parent company is Kalix.....bulk quantities.....now its time to save $$$

Plant Supplements

Shop our wide selection of plant nutrients providing superior results and formulated to meet the comprehensive needs of plants through every stage of growth.

www.kalixcpn.com

His smaller NPK Raw paks are on Amazon.

Bulk is the way to go for large collection.
For $600 I am stocked for the next decade!!!
I have enough to last years

 

[JoeR]

Humic

Fulvic

Kelp

How often do you apply the CleanKelp? Do you use it as a water-in, foliar spray, or both? I just bought a bottle and mixed a quart for foliar spray and used it today. Bottle doesn't specify how often.

 

[Forsoothe!]

I don't like using foliar sprays of nothin' except nice poisons for bugs. I drench soil with all liquid ferts. Very thin leaved trees take sprays badly for me, so applying stuff to soils is my habit. I use Humic at 8 grams + Fulvic at 3 grams + Kelp at 3 grams, all in one quart of water and use that for watering once in a while, maybe bi-weekly or less often. I can't see that it works. I use it and stuff looks OK. I rely on other people's lies about how fantastic things work.

 

[KillerButts]

Could you point us in the direction of the writings VT published? I plan to have a Dutch bucket system running in a newly built 12’x19’ greenhouse. I’d like to use powder as well and in the spring pick a co2 system for directed feed into the bottom of my buckets. Much thanks on this post

 

[cmeg1]

Could you point us in the direction of the writings VT published? I plan to have a Dutch bucket system running in a newly built 12’x19’ greenhouse. I’d like to use powder as well and in the spring pick a co2 system for directed feed into the bottom of my buckets. Much thanks on this post

I never could find this article...I guess Harley Smith knows first hand.....He is a big advocator of it in the course I bought from him.

Hopefully no one sais’ he promoting his product.
I find him quite honest...many people tout silica as a miracle plant additive whereas he states right on the packages he sells that silica is of no benefit to dicot plants.......only monocot?
I have lost count of the growers that sware by silica when in a lot of cases it is a total waste........Harley sais’ essentially ...do not waste your money....I think a dicot plant is one with two leaves at germination??
All the bonsai I grow are dicot I believe...

 

[KillerButts]

All forms of silica are a carcinogen so I’ve read. I cannot confirm but I bet someone here can. I hope maybe that info gets posted someday I bet the study is very helpful especially on what not to do.

 

[cmeg1]

Finding slightly better results adding more calmag to my PURE RO WATER.
Was only using 1/16th tsp per 3 litre jug,so bumped it up a bit to 1/8th+1/32tsp.
And after two days they turned more green.
I do this after they are just starting to push mature needles.Total EC is only 1.0 without extra potassium(do not use extra potassium till they are starting to mature in an intense environment like led’s,co2,or outside in long sun) and like 1.1 EC with the potassium addition(extremely beneficial in maturing growth).
Very low salts........lots of bio-stimulants.
Can start with 1/64th potassium in slightly younger plants then bump up when more mature,as too much potassium will be a toxicity and show up as a calmag deficiency which defeats the whole purpose of Dutch Hydroponics.
The base npk can be increased of course towards specific goals.I rarely go over 1.6 and that is not till’ later season or perhaps a mature plant.
I use kalix in the link or smaller quantities from NPK RAW (same company)

KALIX CPN | Precision Nutrition for Cannabis Cultivators

Crop Streering is serious business and KALIX is engineered for serious growers. Our precision nutrients amplify yields, enhance plant health, and refine cannabinoid profiles. Tailored for professionals in hydroponics or soil, greenhouses, and indoor or outdoor commercial operations.

www.kalixcpn.com

 

[cmeg1]

My JBP SEEDLING CUTTING looks great being hybrid indoor/outdoor grown.1” trunk at almost 7 mnths now!! (Co2 fertilization of course).

 

[Forsoothe!]

All forms of silica are a carcinogen so I’ve read. I cannot confirm but I bet someone here can. I hope maybe that info gets posted someday I bet the study is very helpful especially on what not to do.

Huh? It's the most common element on earth, or should I say of earth. Silica dust, like every other dust of any constituents is hazardous to the lungs, and anything that embeds itself in the lungs will "cause" "cancer". It may very well damage other internal body parts if ingested for approximately the same reason. I seriously doubt that raw silica particles in and of themselves are chemically reactive with any bodily fluids.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Silica is for all practical purposes chemically inert. Basically, like glass, it does not react, does not dissolve in any common acid or base, except hydrofluoric acid. It is impervious to all organic solvents. It simply does not react.

Silica is biologically active in human lungs when the particle size is extremely fine, thousandths of an inch, to micron size dust. Silica dust so fine that it is more like smoke, rather than dust, becomes imbedded in the tissues of the lungs causing MECHANICAL damage, that results in emphysema and or cancer. Chemically, silica is non toxic. The fine dust is an occupational hazard. Generally brief, one time exposures are unlikely to cause any problems. Repeated occupational exposure will cause emphysema like condition called silicosis. If you are not being exposed multiple times a month, chances are rather low that one would experience health issues.

 

[Sekibonsai]

Silica is for all practical purposes chemically inert. Basically, like glass, it does not react, does not dissolve in any common acid or base, except hydrofluoric acid. It is impervious to all organic solvents. It simply does not react.

Silica is biologically active in human lungs when the particle size is extremely fine, thousandths of an inch, to micron size dust. Silica dust so fine that it is more like smoke, rather than dust, becomes imbedded in the tissues of the lungs causing MECHANICAL damage, that results in emphysema and or cancer. Chemically, silica is non toxic. The fine dust is an occupational hazard. Generally brief, one time exposures are unlikely to cause any problems. Repeated occupational exposure will cause emphysema like condition called silicosis. If you are not being exposed multiple times a month, chances are rather low that one would experience health issues.

Accurate (career EHS professional). Unless you are occupationally exposed (concrete cutting, exposure to dust streams containing silica, a resident of desert areas)silica dust is rarely something to worry about.

Silica solutions are a drowning issue long before they would become a silicosis threat...

 

[cmeg1]

Good to know......cool.
I just knew that dyna rok was good for me and my trees.............


DynaRok 2 by dyna gro............was available for like a year.

 

[cmeg1]

NON-FUNGICIDE TREATED PINES -UPDATE!!!

Although I say no fungicide,these actually get an organic very mild fungicide of yucca powder diluted into a leaf wash spray of water and a bit of humic acid.
And also the exciting part is the in reased calcium uptake which is an effect of the bio-fungicide methods of adding certain L Amino acids to increase calcium uptake by 1000 times.
This is exactly what I do instead of the chemical sprays.I add lots of L Glutamate and L Glycine in an tech grade crystaline form.And it has been proven to produce calcium uptake channels on the roots to increase calcium ion uptake by a thousand times compared to the regular one ion at a time that the transporation or evaporation of water from the plants leaves process.

I have already noted on deciduous trees how the leaves actually take on an almost plastic appearance as all the pectin that the calcium pectate fills the leaf cells with greatly increases cuticle strength against tublars of mold and such that normally stick their first invading tubular spore into a water filled leaf cell……….when the calcium is in reased by 1000 times though there are instead vast amounts of calcium pectate instead and the mold spore cannot penetrate it.

I can a tually see the calcium pectate as plane as day as leaves and needles are very ,very tough and shiny.
If this is coupled with less nitrogen assimilation to slow meristem extension their is a conservation of plant energy and slower and smaller growing leaf and stem cells or plant cells that are tougher and more suger content and the photosynthesis is making reserve energy which in turn will produce triggers to make naturally occuring growth elements and even a naturally occuring NPK right on roots from the exudates and if microbes are present…..so less fertilizer salts…..A generally tougher plant with mich smaller and tighter cells.

So long and short I am seeing this effect on the pines….this is only their 2nd grow season and the shiny coating is very apparent and no sign of black dots under the needles or anything……the needles are quite hard too…….I am impressed……I absolutely hate using fungicide sprYs and insecticide……..trust me …the leaves of deciduous get very protective covering on the from the calcium pectate…….and limewise on the pine leaves….can see quite a proounced covering in the close up photos.Just zoom in.

 

[nuttiest]

While I love seeing the success you have attained with the kelp, not sure I agree this is something that can be used on trees less salt-tolerant. Does kelp always contain sodium and iodine?