Bio-stimulant Hydroponics

cmeg1

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So,I am always researching similarities of bonsai substrate and hydroponics media.
Many say is identical in many respects.I lean more towards that camp.

I will post my findings in this thread.
 
I will get into bio stimulants and their roles and my findings using them for more than a year now.
When I have time actually.

Anyway here is a great article hopefully dispelling the myth that microbes serve no purpose in hydroponic type media( essentially drain to waste hydro is pouring our water/nutrient through the inert media for living plants).Hence the similarity of hydroponics and bonsai in many cases.

Here is the microbe article...
 
Preferred inoculants

my two innoculants I currently rotate to get a wide range.
Phot + has some different photosynthesis types ...sulpher too.
I use these mainly for the beneficial bacteria as I have learned through scientific instruction that if using salt based instant type phospherous that mychoriza will be expelled by the root as pathogen response,whereas an organic phospherous like rock phosphate will definately need the fungi to make it available to the plant.

 

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The benefit of an aggressive biome/rhizosphere

By aggressive I mean it exists and is doing its function.
Without getting very scientific(which I cannot) what I have learned is very beneficial is the biomes ability to sequester nitrogen in an amino acid? form from root exudates instead of being plant energy utilized.
The root exude/amino form uses WAY LESS plant energy reserves and will then permit a surplus of energy in the leaf and stems instead of depleting it (and will create lipids,oils,terpines,flavenoids,
and this will create healthy,stable,natural resistance to disease and pests along with essentially a higher suger(brix) content.This permits better absorption of calcium and nutrients and vascular systems too.
Assimilating nitrogen is very taxing to photosynthetic energy.
 
Why not add Amino Acids Also🙌
L amino acids
I add the organically derived type made from hydrolosis which helps all mineral chelation.
My favorite is also adding an extra portion of tech grade amino acids L Glycine & L Glutamate which has been scientifically proven to enhance calcium uptake by 1000’s of times by creating root ion channels......as opposed to the one ion at a time through the transpiration cycle of water( it’s normal means).These are in the omina product as well.... I like the extra boost though.
 

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My two products thus far using bio-stimulant hydroponics.

So after dialing in my nutrient for over a year ,these two trees are showing signs of the extra calcium intake along with high brix......especially the deciduous.
These are grown indoors quite a lot of the year,but next season I may give much more sunshine to really see the effects other than an early start indoors to the year.

The deciduous definately has a leaf texture that almost resembles a synthestic latex/rubbery quality.As I understand it ,this is lots of calcium pectate within the leaf cells from masses of calcium absorption from amino acids(natural Dutch fungicide).Will withstand fungus attack from funguses that penetrate into stomata and feed and live there.The liped and pectin is too dense for the propagule of the mold or fungus to penetrate it in sufficient time...so the spore will die.

The JBP is definately low branching and squat from the bio-stimulant additive of kelp.I will explain in another post.It is only 4 mnths old and has been grown in a co2 environment.

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5:2 ratio of humic acid/kelp

A quote from a well known plant scientist..
.”By combining humic acid and seaweed extracts in a 5:2 ratio, mother plants can produce up to 50% more of a powerful anti-oxidant called superoxide dismutase (SOD). Elevated levels of SOD protect the cell walls, the chloroplast membranes and the mitochondrial membranes during times of heat and drought stress”.

Humic acid is a carbon substance with big molecular weight.It stays in soil chelating minerals holding them next to roots.
Fulvic acid is lower molecular weight humic substance and passes tbeough cell walls quite easily carrying any nutrient or growth promoting elements with them into plant in as little as 4 hours...quite remarkable really!

When either humic substance is mixed in a 5:2 ratio of humic acid powder/kelp powder it will create 50% MORE of a powerful plant protection agent called superoxide dismutase or SOD.
This was discovered in a 10 year study by Virginia Tech.
Keeps the plants very healthy and strong against cell degredation from oxidizing free radicals.

This is how I apply kelp.....humic or fulvic or both in the roots,but always fulvic in the foliar feed.KELP CAN BE USED IN ROOTS EVERY WATERING,BUT ON THE FOLIAR SPRAY NO MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK.......IT WILL BURN LEAVES.

Totally some great stuff....I think the power of kelp is quite overlooked.........especially when combined with thes powerful humic substances.

Fulvic acid in the rootzone can lower fertilizer salt usage by around 20% and be able to get same outcome with less fertilizer salts in the media.......It pulls the nutrient solution ions directly into the plant quite efficiently.


These humic substance also supply carbon that is needed for the biome/rhizosphere microbes so they can create nutrients in the form of the amino acids from root exudates easing the workload consideralbly on the plant ...which normally uses plant energy to assimilate these nitrients......this way the plant will have the important surplus energy and have more lipids,terpenes,flavenoids and oils along with suger to have higher brix and achieve the elevated health dramatically.


Powers of kelp in the next post!!!
I have deemed this the absolute wonder addition to foliar application....crazy backbudding in most tree species.... along with its cell dividing implements for growing of roots!!!
Totally overlooked.
 
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5 mm silica based quartz
plus
Aged compost

Ficus p. - 9 parts quartz
1 part compost

soil mix taken from nature

Without the compost this would be - hydroponics.

Enjoying your research.
Good Day
Anthony
 
Preferred inoculants

my two innoculants I currently rotate to get a wide range.
Phot + has some different photosynthesis types ...sulpher too.
I use these mainly for the beneficial bacteria as I have learned through scientific instruction that if using salt based instant type phospherous that mychoriza will be expelled by the root as pathogen response,whereas an organic phospherous like rock phosphate will definately need the fungi to make it available to the plant.

Looks very interesting. I appreciate the information. The only prohibitive factor for me is the price.
I have been using Root Ruckus for 3 years. It has unspecified innoculats and mychrozoa with a 5:2 seaweed to furvic ratio referred to in the study. I believe it is useful however I have not compared it to a control. I have noticed what you pointed out: it is easy to burn foliage with foliar misapplication.
This year I'm only using it as a drench weekly with a low dose of chemical fertilizer. ( FYI Root Ruckus is $16 and Great White is $59)
 
Seaweed extracts

ok I have seen results first hand with kelp in my growing.Here is an exerpt from A well known hydroponic expert:
“Seaweed extracts also have a positive effect on brix. Seaweed extracts include mannitol, a natural sugar that chelates micronutrients and makes them more available to the plant. Seaweed extracts are also loaded with natural plant growth hormones that stimulate cell division. When used at the root zone, seaweed extracts stimulate cell division of root cells, resulting in more lateral root growth and greater root mass. Improved root growth creates more surface area for the uptake of water and minerals, further improving the brix of the plant. Seaweed extracts are synergistic with other organic biostimulants, so using a combination of additives is better than using any single additive alone.”

Kelp is good for EVERYTHING !!
Everyone has heard of it,but its benefits have become overlooked.
Besides increasing Brix and aiding photosynthesis and making micro nutrients available and making ATP & SOD in much higher quantites,I have noticed EXTREME side bud and backbudding in most plants I used it on aside from gingko or hwthorne which are notoriously hard to side branch.
On zelkova,Elm ,JBP it works wonders for early backbudding. It is a lot of the majic to get my pine seedling cuttings to have up to 8 leaders right on top of roots or 17 shoots extending fairly equalized on a 4 mnth old JBP( aside from co2 fertilization).

The science is the kelp has cytokonins that are transported into leaf and soft stem cells( especially effective when aided with fulvic acid) then the cytokonins trigger an auxin break signal beoing produced in the meristem leader and this makes plant use is ancient genetic responce to branchbreak survival and it throws buds back along the branch.
The good thing is this happens without having to prune your leader prematurely to get this effect.
So,yes!! Backbudding on 1 inch branches and seedlings is the result...quite useful!!!!

It also works wonders at making natural plant hormones from foliar application to seedlings or cutting where rooting is in the future...whether motherplants seedling cuttings or cuttings,air-layers.NEVER FOLIAR FEED KELP MORE THAN ONCE A WEEK IT WILL CREATE SO MUCH ENERGY IN LEAF IT WILL BURN THEM.......IN THE ROOT MEDIA DRENCH IS FINE THOUGH AS MUCH AS DESIRED.

Use the 5:2 ratio of fulvic acid powder/kelp powder
Or 1/8th tsp fulvic : 1/16tsp kelp.
This ratio is only useful for kelp application along with humic or fulvic.
Fulvic is foliar since it is smaller molecular weight and you want to transport growth promoting elements into cells( happens in like 4 hrs!!!)
Also add tiny amount of yucca powder 1/16th per 5 gallons!!!I ise an atomizing hair sprayer on plants that are waxy...the tucca surfectant helps alot and spreads like dew.

Humic better for roots as it chelates and holds in the rootzone.
Humic is good as a leaf wash that I use every day.I mix with tiny amount of yucca...a surfectant that also makes a slight film on plants and is a mild fungicide.Yucca also adds strengthening chemistry of desert surviving plants directly to your plants( the science is evolving).
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Obviously foliar feeding kelp is way to get backbudding in 5:2 ratio fulvic acid powder/kelp powder.KELP IS LOADED WITH CYTOKINES!!
Here is a great link to a Japanes paper that Bjorn Bjorholm has suggested!
Download the pdf...save it!
 
Another excellent article mentioning humic acids/kelp 5:2 ratio

 
Next up I want to write about benefits of high brix(suger) content in our trees.
Along with terpenes,oils,lipids and such
.

Meanwhile here is a great article by well known plant scientist,Harley Smith.......awesome stuff!
I will further my study and manipulate techniques to increase brix by purchasing a brixometer and making readings 😀
Has many benefits to increase disease,pest resistance along with hardines and general overall health with all that is created even to get a high brix plant!!!

 
Brix in bonsai!!!!!

Ok,following up here from previous post.
The article above is really a thourough explanation.
I want to see the effects of high brix content with plants/bonsai that are outdoors at least a large part of the season.
Apparently above brix 12 alot of sucking insects will not even recognize as food.I believe I have witnessed this on the Hornbeams outside.The leaves got munched,but seems the bug moved on instead of entirely eating the whole leaf.And I must say the leaf healed very nicely(probably vitamin B assists this along with overal vigor of a high brix plant).
Anyway without having my brixometer yet...here are pictures of what seemed unusually high brix leaves from trees I’ve grown.I understand with use of amino acids and calcium the brix can be literally off the chart of most brixometers!!!!!
 

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Watching this thread closely.
When are the new batch of JBP and Korean Hornbeams ready? Been waiting anxiously ;)
 
Quickly healing bug damage of high brix/healthy leaf.

Some close-ups of a Hornbeam leaf outside.
I use vitamin-B with a magnesium carrier.Puts plants on high alert from any damage.Quickly repairs.Also all the brix initiating bio-stimulants...kelp,calcium,amino acids(L glycine & L glutamate),Humic acid,fulvic acid.

Anyway the close-up from the Hornbeam leaf shows what seems to me is a quick coagulation of sorts of calcium pectate? Lipids and such bonding the damage quite effectively....the leaves shine quite noticebly when high brix.
 

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exerpt from article of vitamin B and magnesium

Quote:

One of the latest developments in magnesium nutrition is combining B-vitamins with a magnesium sulfate carrier. B-vitamins stimulate carbohydrate metabolism, producing abundant energy in the form of ATP molecules.

Magnesium, on the other hand, positions the ATP molecules so the energy can be released for plant growth and reproduction. In fact, the relationship between ATP and magnesium is so intimate that many biologists refer to ATP as magnesium-ATP.

Since B-vitamins work at the microscopic level, just a small amount of B-vitamins can have a positive effect on the function of magnesium, especially when the energy needs of the plants are greatest.

The bottom line is plants need a steady supply of water-soluble calcium and magnesium to reach their true genetic potential.”

 
exerpt from article of vitamin B and magnesium

Quote:

One of the latest developments in magnesium nutrition is combining B-vitamins with a magnesium sulfate carrier. B-vitamins stimulate carbohydrate metabolism, producing abundant energy in the form of ATP molecules.

Magnesium, on the other hand, positions the ATP molecules so the energy can be released for plant growth and reproduction. In fact, the relationship between ATP and magnesium is so intimate that many biologists refer to ATP as magnesium-ATP.

Since B-vitamins work at the microscopic level, just a small amount of B-vitamins can have a positive effect on the function of magnesium, especially when the energy needs of the plants are greatest.

The bottom line is plants need a steady supply of water-soluble calcium and magnesium to reach their true genetic potential.”

Thanks for sharing again. I feel that your threads havent been receiving the attention they should. Im going to be starting a hydro system modeling yours very soon
 
Watch out with additional potassium (though is excellent).

Adding 1/64th-1/32 tsp of potassium sulphate is excellent when plants are being pushed as.....maturing in LED’s,co2,blooming....or strong growing and rapid growing in maturity.
Keeps plants from stalling and getting a hidden hunger by adding a pinch of potassium sulphate.
WATCHOUT THOUGH!!! an excess of potassium will show up as a calcium or magnesium deficiency or both!!! And will totally halt any benefits of increased calcium ....calcium is king!!!
These is easily corrected by pulling back on the potassium and just fix the deficiency with some magnesium or calmag.Magnesium deficiency shows as green veins,but yellow leaf starting on bottom leaves and tips of needles......easily corrected in a few days though!
Having higher potassium to the nitrogen ratio is very beneficial in increasing brix though.
I always add a pinch when plants start maturing and I am pushing them or when candles are extending indoors or out.

 
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Watching this thread closely.
When are the new batch of JBP and Korean Hornbeams ready? Been waiting anxiously ;)
Pines be ready 1st week of October...I will send a notification.
Had issues getting legal shipping certification for any new species I wanted to add this year because of the covid.USDA working from home and just renewed current plant certifications I already had.
I can get in BIG trouble if I ship a lantern fly out of state lol
Without inspection.
 
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