I personally don't like crossing wires because people told me it looks bad. I used to do them too, but since a year or two I try to think about which branch I'm going to connect with another. Doing this mind game first helps reducing the amount of crossed wires, which in turn gives a smoother look.
I think the wire on the trunk, especially on the lower part, might be a little too tight. It could constrict the sap stream if the tree grows well.
I think the start is good, but if you use some thicker wire, you can make this trunk dance a little (more bends, more elegance) unless you're going for a formal upright tree of course, then this should work just fine.
On the top of the tree there are a few branches on both sides that originate from the same node, this will probably cause some swelling later on and might lead to inverse taper (thick parts high up the trunk). So it might be a good idea to remove some of those in the near future.
All in all a good start! You did not take off too much, which is a good thing!
I'll be for sure working on that and thinking.Nice work! I agree with @Wires_Guy_wires, in the future I would try to avoid crossing wires if possible, and the bar branches at the top are definitively an issue, but if you just cut them, it might look weird since the distance between branches near the top should be shorter than between lower branches:
View attachment 373156
How about losing the top and wiring one of the bar branches to be the new leader?
View attachment 373158View attachment 373160
As to when to prune, I'm not sure, maybe someone else might chime in on that.
Understood, this was mostly an experiment.It needs to grooooowwwwww
for a few years Up-pot every couple of years. Lots of fertilizer.
IMHO
It's hard to leave our trees alone, but that's what you need to do.
Keep up the enthusiasm!
Yes it does live inside, but next to a window that remain always opened.Almost got that scalene triangle going on.. nice enthusiasm!
Many good quality, important information already slung your way.
This tree doesn’t LIVE indoors, does it?
There are going to be certain windows for (Higher probability of success) repots... this a tree species that REALLY likes to follow this rule. Frequent/poorly timed/poorly managed repots kill many trees.... many... trees.
So learn your “windows”. (I know them, buuuut I figure you have a while before you should repot, so you will learn them) We NORMALLY do root-disruption whilst the plants are in “limbo”.. bouncing their energies from top to bottom, top to bottom..while the temperatures “even out” for that particular “period” of the year. (Too many hints?)
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Pretty much anything should work. If you ask 100 people on this site, you'll get 100 different answers.Understood, this was mostly an experiment.
But I will repot it to grow in the next year, what fertilizer do you recommend?
So I'm in doubt about pruning it, when should I do it? Here in Brazil is the beginning of winter, temps go from 10 to 20celsius...
Thank you!Mimicking it's natural cycle is best.
Taking into consideration the "not so natural" placement that is next to an open window in Brazil.......
I've found that winter kills branches naturally, and summer drought kills branches naturally, so the tree is most well equipped to regrow from a pruning during these times as well.
So pruning is best done as close to within a week before spring growth and fall growth as possible.
Sorce
Thankss!!Hi Munch9
plant looks nice and healthy, also the shortened apex is an improvement to the image!
as a first try: well done! the new movement in the trunk also looks good!
Best regards
Herman
If expecting survival remove from house! Natural outdoor Sun not through window needed for good health of any coniferYes it does live inside, but next to a window that remain always opened.
Bad idea if wanting bigger than toothpick trunk. Bigger box or grow pot needed several years as well as sacrifice trunk/branchThankss!!
I'm now thinking a smaller and darker pot, would be better.