Anyone recognize the genus of this Acer Palmatum?

[hinmo24t]

thanks guys, with all these crazy names on eBay, its quite difficult to find to the regular plain old "green A.P" which is actually what I'm going after. I don't want any crazy lobe shapes or flaming leaves, etc. Would this be a listing for the "standard" JM?

Green Japanese Maple Tree 2-5 feet tall | eBay

These beautiful Green Japanese Maple Trees are perfect for bonsai, grafting, and great landscape trees. These trees are fast and upright growing and can reach heights of 30 feet.

www.ebay.com

Thanks again guys!

check walmart and home depot too. they carry green APs, i got mine from someone who started it as a cutting or seed, but i plan on finding a bloodgood maple at home depot this year. i like them as much if not more than traditional cranberry acers (i have an 8' tall one in front landscaping)

 

[walee]

Another update, I received a response from the Pacific Bonsai Museum via email (I reached out from all angles ) and here's what they responded.

Thanks for visiting! This is from our curator: “As far as our records indicate it’s a standard acer palmatum. It has been a bonsai for decades so the size of the leaf is reduced as a result.” Hope that helps you work on one of your own!

Warmly,
Sasha
Pacific Bonsai Museum

Still confused since the general consensus is that the Green AP shouldn't get this red. Either way, I've already purchased 2 of those green AP's from eBay so I hope I have some luck, maybe I can snag a nice twin trunk air layer from one of the branches!

@0soyoung thank you,
@hinmo24t Thats so crazy, I just checked HomeDepot and they have some bloodgood available! Albeit for shipping only; you should go snag one!

 

[Shibui]

There are several sub species of JM that exist in wild populations. Each has different leaf shape, size and color.
There are also many different strains of JM as a result of them being used in gardens for thousands of years. That makes JM a really variable species.
Within Japanese maple there are some strains that tend to have reddish leaves and some others that have green leaves. Some of those are named cultivars, others are just seedlings that have not been given cultivar names. Some of those will have green leaves, some will have red leaves, some larger leaves, others smaller leaves. All are Japanese maples but only the ones that have been named are cultivars.

At least some of your confusion appears to be because you do not seem to understand the difference between genus, species, variety and cultivar.

 

[bwaynef]

Japanese Maple aren't known for thriving in Southern California. With that in mind, I'd consider growing Japanese Maple from seed, using a seed source for "small leaf, small seed". They're designated as such because they're prized for grafting and should be readily available. Growing plain species A. palmatum will give you the hardiest tree and most vigorous. Fall color will likely be hard to come by in your location, but there's A. palmatum is likely your best bet for survival and gives more fall color than you're likely to see anyway.

 

[hinmo24t]

Japanese Maple aren't known for thriving in Southern California. With that in mind, I'd consider growing Japanese Maple from seed, using a seed source for "small leaf, small seed". They're designated as such because they're prized for grafting and should be readily available. Growing plain species A. palmatum will give you the hardiest tree and most vigorous. Fall color will likely be hard to come by in your location, but there's A. palmatum is likely your best bet for survival and gives more fall color than you're likely to see anyway.

should go sweetgum instead for cali

 

[StarGazer]

No.

Yes.

The red color arises from anthocyanins that shade the photocenters from too much light (note how the intense red on this tree is the upper, most sun exposed, foliage). So, if fall reds are your thing, you can keep your potted (bonsai) tree in partial shade for a few weeks in late-summer/early-fall, then move it into full sun. I also noted years ago that using too strong a rooting hormone powder when making air layers will also induce this.

I agree with @0soyoung, you can play with the conditions you keep your JM as fall arrives to get more vibrant colors. In my garden I do the transfer from shade to sun in the fall to get a better display.
Vertrees (@0soyoung, thank you for the recommendation!) also suggests a very slight reduction in watering volume to increase JM fall color intensity.

 

[Oerc201]

What is the best time to chop 90 percent of a regular japanese maple? I have one that i got pretty cheap with a thick trunk. Is it ok to chop around this time? Buds have not swollen yet.

 

[0soyoung]

They can be chopped most anytime. I prefer doing it after the first flush has hardened and to chop no lower than just above the lowest branch. If one does this when it is leafless, the equivalent 'rule' is no lower than just above the lowest node. Serious die back of the stump trunk is most likely when done late in the summer or fall.

BEFORE you do it, be sure that the lower trunk is as thick as you want because it won't thicken much after the chop until the new growth is nearly the same thickness.

 

[MrWunderful]

What is the best time to chop 90 percent of a regular japanese maple? I have one that i got pretty cheap with a thick trunk. Is it ok to chop around this time? Buds have not swollen yet.

I would do it mid summer.

 

[Oerc201]

Thanks guys

 

[walee]

Thanks for all your suggestions, tips, and help guys! My two starter Japanese Maples arrived in the mail this past week and have already potted them in 1 gal pots, will let them fatten up for a while. I'm thinking about growing roughly 3ft high bonsais. Time to start fattening up the trunk!

 

[Africanherbman]

Vertrees (@0soyoung, thank you for the recommendation!) also suggests a very slight reduction in watering volume to increase JM fall color intensity.

Is this also during fall? For how long would you do this for? The entire fall season? Or just around about when I'd expect the colors?

 

[StarGazer]

Is this also during fall? For how long would you do this for? The entire fall season? Or just around about when I'd expect the color

In terms of moving the maples to a sunnier spot in the fall, the main thing is to avoid sunburn on the leaves. If you move your maples to a less shady spot, do so when they start or are about to change color. Likewise, in terms of the water reductions leaves start changing color, Vertress really emphasizes that this should be done very slightly, so as not to hurt the tree. Do not skip watering.

 

[walee]

Hi friends,

I think I messed up. Went away for a week and set up a drip system at a very slow rate of drip and one of the plants may have suffered from overwatering. I hope it's not verticillium wilt. The temperatures averaged mid 80F's daily. Anyone able to offer any words of possible good news or is it over for this poor guy? The plant on the left looks fine, the plant on the right is the one in need of help.

 

[Tums]

Christ, it's in the 80s in socal already? Are you sure it's not underwatered?

 

[walee]

@Tums today's high was 90F! Slightly unseasonably hot, but we're also in a drought year so you never know what to expect!

Not sure about the watering since I was gone for a week, but I can say that the pot that wilted had a slightly higher drip rate which I thought might be okay at the time. I had it timed to roughly 43secs/drop (using an IV drip) which calculated out roughly to 0.49 cups of water per day. The soil feels wet at about an inch depth, but not soupy saturated. My soil mix is 10% perlite, 10% pumice, 10% akadama, 30% sifted decomposed granite, and 40% Miracle Gro Cactus Mix, so I would think it's got sufficient drainage.

I'll check deeper for dryness tomorrow as perhaps the drip lines only watered shallowly. For the time being, I disconnected the drip-lines incase I was drowning the plant!

 

[SeanS]

@Tums today's high was 90F! Slightly unseasonably hot, but we're also in a drought year so you never know what to expect!

Not sure about the watering since I was gone for a week, but I can say that the pot that wilted had a slightly higher drip rate which I thought might be okay at the time. I had it timed to roughly 43secs/drop (using an IV drip) which calculated out roughly to 0.49 cups of water per day. The soil feels wet at about an inch depth, but not soupy saturated. My soil mix is 10% perlite, 10% pumice, 10% akadama, 30% sifted decomposed granite, and 40% Miracle Gro Cactus Mix, so I would think it's got sufficient drainage.

I'll check deeper for dryness tomorrow as perhaps the drip lines only watered shallowly. For the time being, I disconnected the drip-lines incase I was drowning the plant!

1/2 cup of water per day? That sounds like under watered in a well draining soil

 

[Dan92119]

San Diego here. I keep my deshojo on the north side of my house. It gets morning sun only. It’s the only AP I have been to keep alive here. Late summer when it gets really hot and windy the leaves get crispy. No fall colors for me.

 

[Juanmi]

If I'm not mistaken japanese maples need cold temperatures in order to get nice fall colors.
I heard some people put them on the fridge for a week or so before going to exhibitions. (Only by night I think)

 

[Tums]

@Tums today's high was 90F! Slightly unseasonably hot, but we're also in a drought year so you never know what to expect!

Not sure about the watering since I was gone for a week, but I can say that the pot that wilted had a slightly higher drip rate which I thought might be okay at the time. I had it timed to roughly 43secs/drop (using an IV drip) which calculated out roughly to 0.49 cups of water per day. The soil feels wet at about an inch depth, but not soupy saturated. My soil mix is 10% perlite, 10% pumice, 10% akadama, 30% sifted decomposed granite, and 40% Miracle Gro Cactus Mix, so I would think it's got sufficient drainage.

I'll check deeper for dryness tomorrow as perhaps the drip lines only watered shallowly. For the time being, I disconnected the drip-lines incase I was drowning the plant!

I'm really leaning towards underwatering due to the temperature and the clay pot. Especially since if you let the peat in the Miracle-Gro dry out it will be super difficult to rewet. In the Eastern US sometimes we get rain for multiple days in a row and the soil stays pretty wet all throughout fall-winter-early spring yet the trees don't rot out if well drained.