Acer Palmatum - How to progress?

[Ozz80]

I bought this acer palmatum from a nursery today. I know it is a bit early to ask but, when February comes, how should I progress with the design by removing branches or chopping? At the moment, I am thinking of:

Option 1: Keep the V shape without touching two main branches. Remove most of the branches up from the red line. But keep one or two sacrifices for each main branch. Then repot to a large and flat wooden growing pot at the same season when buds swell. Keep nurturing for 5-10 years, while removing and creating sacrifices, until trunk thickens a bit more and transition from nebari to the main trunk becomes smoother.

There is one problem with that approach however: there is a reverse taper at the side view. When I keep the V shape, I will be keeping the reverse taper at the same time. I expect that two branches will merge in time at the bottom. Is there a way to achieve faster thickening at the bottom of the V, compared to the merging point of the V, so that reverse taper will be corrected? I remember reading somewhere that making small cuts or even needling at the bottom of a trunk causes swelling and getting relatively more thickness. Can it be done on an acer?

I am not considering a fast transition to bonsai pot in this option, since I would prefer to correct the sideview reverse taper as much as possible.

Option 2: Remove the thicker main branch of the V completely, in order to give more taper to the design. Chop the remaining branch up from the red line and let the new leader grow on the direction of the yellow line in order to get a movement.

After that;

- Either accept the sudden taper change from nebari to trunk . In that case do not hurry to repot to growing medium (since plan is to directly move it to a bonsai training pot asap when ramification is done) . Wait for a few years, until the leader gets acceptable thickness and enough ramification is achieved. When these objectives are achieved, repot to a bonsai training pot.

- Or try to correct this sudden thickness change by focusing on thickening the trunk. In that case move to the large flat wooden pot same year, grow some sacrifices, wait 5-10 years or as how long it takes.

The downside of this approach is, there will be a huge scar on the side. (maybe that will heal a bit with branching there) On the other hand, there will probably no issue with the reverse taper.

Option 3: Remove the thinner main branch of the V, prioritizing movement over taper by chopping the tree at the red lines. Chop the remaining branch at an upper point. Other strategies for this alternative is the same with the option 2: Either grow trunk or prepare for bonsai pot.

Option 4 Chop the main trunk below the merging point of the fork and start from scratch for branch growth and tapering.

Which option will be best, given that I am in no hurry and I really don't favor big scars on the front on a decidious tree? I am also open to alternative ideas.

My next question will be, is the trident shape at the nebari and the sudden thickness change from nebari to the trunk acceptable in a bonsai? (Without knowing the design principles, I feel that trident is maybe OK, not the best though, but sudden change in thickness looks rather unnatural and ugly).

My final question will be, what is the subspecies of this acer palmatum? The nursery owner had no idea about that

Option 1:


option 2



option 3



Side view reverse taper



Foliage

 

[Ozz80]

I am uploading two additional photos so that the trunk base and nebari can be seen better

 

[dbonsaiw]

You could also consider keeping the tree as a mother tree and removing pieces by airlayer. This way you can pick the sections with more movement and start with much better nebari/base.

 

[Ozz80]

You could also consider keeping the tree as a mother tree and removing pieces by airlayer. This way you can pick the sections with more movement and start with much better nebari/base.

Thanks for the advice. Considering that I don't have a greenhouse and it becomes pretty hot here in Istanbul at late summer and early fall, how thick can I go on air layering? Can I airlayer at the very bottom of the trunk?

Or maybe something like this?

Do you think that this tree is garbage material?

 

[dbonsaiw]

Thanks for the advice. Considering that I don't have a greenhouse and it becomes pretty hot here in Istanbul at late summer and early fall, how thick can I go on air layering? Can I airlayer at the very bottom of the trunk?

Do you think that this tree is garbage material?

Maybe others from hotter climates will chime in, but I've airlayered JM trunks over 2" thick and know people have done bigger. Yes, you could airlayer wherever you want, including at the bottom of the trunk. You could airlayer below the splits and have a double trunk or mother/daughter. There's a lot of potential material on that tree that can be used for several trees. I believe this is my 4th year in bonsai and I've spent much of it fighting with nursery JMs. Considering that I've butchered/killed almost all of them in the learning process, I can tell you that I would be further along today if I simply took a few airlayers at the get go and developed at the bonsai pace.

You could airlayer a few branches above where you proposed any of the chops and still preserve the base you originally wanted to work with. This will give you a few more free trees from the same stock to play around with. I find it a little easier to appreciate the lower trunk once the overgrowth (here the airlayers) is removed. Next year when you repot the mother tree you can see what the roots really look like (base looks a little rough from what I can see) and can cut the tree back based on the decisions you make between now and then. You'll be able to see how much better the airlayered radial roots are than the nursery stock. A good base is everything in bonsai. Height can always be easily added back - thickness and taper need to be developed over time starting with a good base.

P.S. you can fix the roots on the main trunk in the future if need be either with grafts or another layer really low down.

 

[Ozz80]

Maybe others from hotter climates will chime in, but I've airlayered JM trunks over 2" thick and know people have done bigger. Yes, you could airlayer wherever you want, including at the bottom of the trunk. You could airlayer below the splits and have a double trunk or mother/daughter. There's a lot of potential material on that tree that can be used for several trees. I believe this is my 4th year in bonsai and I've spent much of it fighting with nursery JMs. Considering that I've butchered/killed almost all of them in the learning process, I can tell you that I would be further along today if I simply took a few airlayers at the get go and developed at the bonsai pace.

You could airlayer a few branches above where you proposed any of the chops and still preserve the base you originally wanted to work with. This will give you a few more free trees from the same stock to play around with. I find it a little easier to appreciate the lower trunk once the overgrowth (here the airlayers) is removed. Next year when you repot the mother tree you can see what the roots really look like (base looks a little rough from what I can see) and can cut the tree back based on the decisions you make between now and then. You'll be able to see how much better the airlayered radial roots are than the nursery stock. A good base is everything in bonsai. Height can always be easily added back - thickness and taper need to be developed over time starting with a good base.

P.S. you can fix the roots on the main trunk in the future if need be either with grafts or another layer really low down.

That sounds logical. I will do as you suggested, starting airlayering from the top.
Thanks again