When to repot pre-bonsai starter plants?

Hoops

Seedling
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Location
Maryland
USDA Zone
7a
I'm relatively new to bonsai and recently acquired some pre-bonsai starter plants in 3" and 5" plastic pots (ficus, podocarpus, serissa). I plan to grow these indoors in bright indirect sunlight and under fluorescent lights. My questions:

-When should I repot these into training pots? (When roots start coming out the bottom drain holes?)

-When I do repot, should repot into bonsai soil?

-When is it safe to do some initial, minimal trimming for shaping?

Thanks very much for any help!

Hoops
 
Repotting all depends on the species and the climate zone you are in. Start researching those and you'll know exactly what to do!

As for growing indoors I don't suggest it but.....some others have experience with this
 
Thanks for the response StoneCloud. I'm starting with some indoors bonsai and will probably try some outdoors once I get some experience (and figure out an outdoors setup that offers the right amount of sun and shade).

The research I've done so far on species does provide some info on repotting, but nothing about when to repot younger starter plants.
 
If you want to grow them out, repot by simply slipping them into a larger pot with more dirt. Can be done any time.. don't go from a 3" pot to a 3 gallon or anything, bump put to a half gallon or one gallon first, then move up progressively as it grows...

Don't prune much at all. Growth leads to a bigger/ more mature looking tree.

Agree with Stone cloud about growing indoors, but some people can pull it off well I guess... just seems like a lot of trouble, mass in the house an really limits the species you can work with. I prefer trees I and keep outside year round...
 
Hoops....

Do you feel compelled to water using the dunking method?

Welcome to Crazy!

Last time I smashed a backboard......
Nevermind....

Younger Starter plants can take a good whooping.
In fact..
It is the very reason they exist.

3!

How lame would it be if you were a professional hula hooper!
Lame for me...

I wouldn't question your Art!

Sorce
 
Sorce... For watering, I prefer dribbling rather than the dunking method.

Hoops

Lol! That was the Best Response !
Welcome Home!

You still need to know when to repot eh?
We usually repot tropicals in Summer.

To the moon...
Around Mid June...or Mid July would be good.

Oh...Eric Group tossed in a "whenever", I'm with That, long as They're healthy.

But that makes me think about lighting...
Wether or not you're bringing them out for the summer.

I Just put mine out. I go out once when we Won't see lower than 50F...and in when we Won't see over 50F.
I prune em upon out and in to keep em from dropping leaves.

Serissa are most Finnicky about placement.

Inside lights are 4 4ft fluorescents.
16hrs on.

Most important....

Do you have forced air heat or radiators?
AC in The Summer?

Some things to consider.

Pics!

Sorce
 
Thanks for the response StoneCloud. I'm starting with some indoors bonsai and will probably try some outdoors once I get some experience (and figure out an outdoors setup that offers the right amount of sun and shade).

The research I've done so far on species does provide some info on repotting, but nothing about when to repot younger starter plants.

Species of a plant dictates it's care...unless your propagating plants from seeds. I would image possibly a separate set of rules? Honestly I don't grow from seed so I don't know if that applies. But once started on its way on roots well. It would be treated as its species call for. Age would not apply into the factor.

I am a northerner...with cooler temps of corse for winter. So my tropical aren't repotted until end of June or into July when night temps are above freezing. Repotting for those species vary depending in climate. Most deciduous are at bud swelling. Junipers when I see them waking up from dormancy and starting to push growth. *Those/ junipers only get a partial bare root.

Welcome...and enjoy your journey.
 
The research I've done so far on species does provide some info on repotting, but nothing about when to repot younger starter plants.

Here as Darlene said we do sub tropical and tropical work in the hot months while they are actively growing. Not seeing them and you mentioning them being small starters I suspect they don't need a repot at all this year. I might add that any area outdoors for the Summer with dappled light(not full sun) will provide you with the best growth... It may sound like a year is a long time to wait but they will be able to handle aggressive work next Summer far better then this year.

Grimmy
 
Do you have forced air heat or radiators?
AC in The Summer?

I can close the vent in the room and control humidity a bit with a humidifier. The room has very bright indirect light (east and south exposures).

Also, what kind of tree are we talking about?

Two varieties of ficus, a podocarpus, and a couple of serissa (which were a goof on my part --I thought I was getting something else). If I can figure out how to upload photos, I'll post some pics.

I planned to keep these indoors, but I guess I should reconsider placing them outside for the summer (if I can create dappled sunlight).

Hoops
 
Definitely outdoors for the summer, indoors for the winter. Repot when the trees are actively growing, not just when it's warm.
 
Some photos:

Ficus
ficus.JPG

Podocarpus
podocarpus.JPG

Serissa
serissa.JPG

Thanks to everyone who has offered comments.

Hoops
 
I planned to keep these indoors, but I guess I should reconsider placing them outside for the summer (if I can create dappled sunlight).

I don't fuss with my ficus much.
Once in and out. BIP. BOP.
(bring in pruning. Being out pruning.)
Cheap lights, analog timer.

I haven't lost a leaf in 4 years...
Until recently...
Because I had too much growth shading stuff out!
NAP. Not a Problem!

https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/purpose-of-the-past-post-giant-ficus.17047/

https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/ficus-ben-over-rockish-type-material.17483/

https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/concrete-hollow-patch.20769/

KISS.

Sorce
 
Update: I've been schooled. Rather than keep these indoors as I had originally planned, they are going outdoors for the summer. I just set up a sheltered area on my deck where I can control (somewhat) the shade and sun so I can gradually acclimate the plants to the stronger sunlight.

Thanks again for the feedback!

Hoops
 
I think those are nice healty starters and they do not need repotting if you can keep them happy in that soil. Just learn how to water and feed them and watch their response.
If you're tempted to do it, start with ficus, it's the most forgiving of them. You can bare root and repot ficus spring-fall if it's growing actively.
 
Welcome to bonsai, I've been growing orchids and a few sub-tropical and tropical trees under lights year round for more than 40 years. It can be done, and done well. I also have grown bonsai outdoors, for 40+ years, and some of my subtropicals are outdoors in summer, indoors in winters.

Honestly, growing and watering techniques for indoor growing and outdoor growing are somewhat different, of course principals are the same in terms of what each species of plant needs to be healthy, but learning how to grow well under lights or on the windowsill won't help a lot with growing bonsai well outdoors. The main differences will be in watering.

The species you have, podocarpus, ficus and serissa are all quite do-able outdoors for summer and indoors for winter. The Ficus will do the best in Maryland done outdoors or summer, in for winter, but of the list, Ficus is the only one you can really do a good job with growing indoors year round. Providing enough light in winter is always a problem for indoor trees, but Ficus will do better than most.

About watering. in my experience, dribbling water into your pots from a watering can is bad. It works okay for houseplants in potting soil or peat moss because these media will wick water around to all parts of the pot. BUT as your bonsai develop, you will want to move them to a more granular, inert potting media. When you do the mix will not wick water very well, and dribbling in water from a watering can or wand will leave dry pockets in the pot, leading to root damage and eventually death. The ''proper way'' to water is to flood the pot with water, let it drain a minute or two and then flood again, let drain then return to the windowsill. You want every particle of media in the pot to get wet, then let the pot drain so it isn't dripping, then return it to the shelf.

With only a few plants on the windowsill, best is to walk them to the sink to water them. If you have 50 or so on the windowsill, dunking the plant in a bucket of water, then returning it to the windowsill is a bit quicker than walking each to the sink. When I went over 100 plants indoors to water I set up my light garden in a way where I could drain to a sewer (in the basement) so I could use a garden hose indoors. But with only 4 bonsai, you should take the time to walk them to the sink, water thoroughly, let drain, then return to the windowsill.

When to water is an art. best water meter is your index finger, better than any electronic device. Dig finger in at least a quarter inch or more below the surface, feel for moisture, if moist, watering can wait, if bone dry watering should have been the day before, if barely damp, the perfect time to water. Notice the weight of the pot, the heft will change as it goes from wet to dry. A few weeks of using your finger to check moisture will ''calibrate'' your sense of weight, or heft, of the pot. Soon you will know if it needs water just by its heft when you pick it up.

Good luck, and welcome aboard.
 
little secret of the pro's, the tip of your peter is actually the very best water meter, better than any device.
 
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