My first bonsai

[Zuxxnet]

Hello bonsai people.
I just joined this forum, i have been trying out bonsai for 2-3 years, mostly started with the generic bonsai plants indoor (ficus ginseng) which are super easy to work it.

Then in 2024 i decided to try and plant some appleseeds with the kids at work, as a fun little project, which turned out to be a succes.
I took the apple home and started my first outside wiring adventure.

Please dont judge my frankenstein bonsai.


The tree is also a meter high, how/where would yall go about cutting it, it keep it smaller, its about 1 meter high.
My idea would be to try to airlayer and keep most of my tree.

Sorry for the bad quality of pics

 

[rockm]

Hello bonsai people.
I just joined this forum, i have been trying out bonsai for 2-3 years, mostly started with the generic bonsai plants indoor (ficus ginseng) which are super easy to work it.

Then in 2024 i decided to try and plant some appleseeds with the kids at work, as a fun little project, which turned out to be a succes.
I took the apple home and started my first outside wiring adventure.

Please dont judge my frankenstein bonsai.
View attachment 628474View attachment 628475

The tree is also a meter high, how/where would yall go about cutting it, it keep it smaller, its about 1 meter high.
My idea would be to try to airlayer and keep most of my tree.

Sorry for the bad quality of pics

FWIW, wiring is not a great way to develop deciduous material. Bends with wire look odd. Hard pruning and regrowth are more effective for them, as they produce more angular, convincing branching Also, as deciduous trees get older and thicker wiring them can produce snapped branches, split bark and other bad things.

 

[Gabler]

For now, I would let them grow and thicken. Think about chopping in another year or three.

 

[Zuxxnet]

For now, I would let them grow and thicken. Think about chopping in another year or three.

I would like to harden it at bit, to strengthen the trunk, as it is pretty bouncy, by the way i wired the tree.

For now i only have a 30 L pot, as i live in an apartment, with a little outside area. Might have to upgrade to a bigger pot.

Thanks for the advice

 

[Zuxxnet]

FWIW, wiring is not a great way to develop deciduous material. Bends with wire look odd. Hard pruning and regrowth are more effective for them, as they produce more angular, convincing branching Also, as deciduous trees get older and thicker wiring them can produce snapped branches, split bark and other bad things.

The odd shape is because i had a good time, doing the same to my indoor ficus.

i have actually grown quiet attached to my apple tree. I even made a diary for it, with decriptions and pictures.

Is the split bark thing only with branches that still have the wire on, or is it even after removing it?

 

[rockm]

Split bark

The odd shape is because i had a good time, doing the same to my indoor ficus.
View attachment 628528View attachment 628529
i have actually grown quiet attached to my apple tree. I even made a diary for it, with decriptions and pictures.

Is the split bark thing only with branches that still have the wire on, or is it even after removing it?

Split bark and branches don’t go away immediately because you take wire off. Split bark can kill off branching or trunks if the splits disrupt sap flow enough. Cambium (the living portion of the tree ) is a thin layer over the outside of the tree lying just below the bark. Splitting bark is a sign you may have damaged the cambium underneath. If you don’t know what al this is you’re not ready to wire the tree. Wiring is stressful d if you do it wrong potentially fatal to portions of or the entire tree (if you incorrectly wired the trunk)

 

[Zuxxnet]

Split bark

Split bark and branches don’t go away immediately because you take wire off. Split bark can kill off branching or trunks if the splits disrupt sap flow enough. Cambium (the living portion of the tree ) is a thin layer over the outside of the tree lying just below the bark. Splitting bark is a sign you may have damaged the cambium underneath. If you don’t know what al this is you’re not ready to wire the tree. Wiring is stressful d if you do it wrong potentially fatal to portions of or the entire tree (if you incorrectly wired the trunk)

it has survived 2 -15 degree danish winters so far with the wire off.
Does that mean its good? Or will the damage come later

 

[Bonsai Nut]

it has survived 2 -15 degree danish winters so far with the wire off.
Does that mean its good? Or will the damage come later

You have already learned the first rule of bonsai, which is to enjoy yourself.

The second rule of bonsai is to learn to think like a tree. You have to learn their secrets, and learn how to provide the optimal growing conditions while molding their shape. You have to learn their seasonal rhythms, and learn when to work with them versus leave them alone. Right now in Denmark your tree is in deep hibernation. All of its energy is stored deep in its roots and (small) trunk. Wiring and bending branches at this time of year will not generally stress the tree. However if you bend a branch too far and it splits, the tree won't respond right away because it is asleep. Once it starts to wake up in the spring, it will become aware of the damage and decide - is it worth healing? Or maybe not?

Note that no tree can heal hardwood... because it is dead. The only thing it can do is grow over the wound... and when the 10mm branch becomes 10cm - no one will know the damage was ever there.

 

[Gabler]

it has survived 2 -15 degree danish winters so far with the wire off.
Does that mean its good? Or will the damage come later

If you're talking about wire biting into the branch, the damage will not get any worse after you remove the wire. However, it will not get better immediately. It could take a very long time to heal the scar.

 

[Zuxxnet]

You have already learned the first rule of bonsai, which is to enjoy yourself.

I am enjoying myself quiet a bit, even tho i might not follow the general bonsai rules. But just seeing what is possible is pure fun

The second rule of bonsai is to learn to think like a tree. You have to learn their secrets, and learn how to provide the optimal growing conditions while molding their shape. You have to learn their seasonal rhythms, and learn when to work with them versus leave them alone.

Everyone in my closest family are working or have worked with trees and such before, so i can get solid advice on optimal conditions.

Right now in Denmark your tree is in deep hibernation. All of its energy is stored deep in its roots and (small) trunk. Wiring and bending branches at this time of year will not generally stress the tree. However if you bend a branch too far and it splits, the tree won't respond right away because it is asleep. Once it starts to wake up in the spring, it will become aware of the damage and decide - is it worth healing? Or maybe not?

I would never wire in the winter, i also didnt leave the wire on during the winter, as a was afraid the cold wire would damage it somehow

Note that no tree can heal hardwood... because it is dead. The only thing it can do is grow over the wound... and when the 10mm branch becomes 10cm - no one will know the damage was ever there.

Some of my indoor ficus has already healed over it’s scaring, in less than a growing season.
I know apple and ficus are far from being close to each other tho

 

[rockm]

FWIW there are no bonsai "rules." There are however "bonsai consequences" and "odd looking bonsai" which result from being dismissive of the sets of guidelines that reliably produce decent healthy bonsai. Also freezing temps don't have any affect on wired trees. That's an old bonsai myth.

 

[Gabler]

Also freezing temps don't have any affect on wired trees. That's an old bonsai myth.

Is there a difference between leaving wire on for the winter and putting it on in the winter? I don't bother working on dormant trees because they won't respond to the damage until spring anyway. However, if I decided to wire up a dormant deciduous tree in early January, is there any more risk to the tree than wiring in late February?

 

[Dav4]

I enjoy growing deciduous material from seeds or cuttings, and I advise wiring while the new growth is still pliable and during the growing season, because the more woody the branch lignifies, the harder it becomes to create meaningful movement with wire and you're more likely to snap the branch trying. This wire will usually only stay on the tree for 4-6 weeks before it will need to be removed as it will bite in deeply if left on for too long. Also, you need to realize that probably 75% or more of the wired branch or trunk will be cut away after the wire is removed. This is how you build movement and taper in both trunks and branches.

I also wire trees in my cold room during the dormant season as well but this is reserved for more developed stock in my cold room where the movement in smaller branches is adjusted. I try to keep these trees above freezing but don't lose sleep if it falls into the upper 20's F in there. This winter, those trees have been sitting in frozen soil for over three weeks , and I'm ok with that. Wiring and bending damages the cambium which can cause dessication and, potentially, the loss of the branch, so I would not have been comfortable wiring trees through the winter if they were outside experiencing the deep cold for months on end. Anyway, starting yesterday, I'm back to trying to keep it as cold as possible in there to forestall the inevitable end of dormancy. Happy growing to everyone... spring is right around the corner!

 

[Gabler]

Wiring and bending damages the cambium which can cause dessication and, potentially, the loss of the branch, so I would not have been comfortable wiring trees through the winter if they were outside experiencing the deep cold for months on end.

That answers my question. Thanks.

 

[Zuxxnet]

That answers my question. Thanks.

I enjoy growing deciduous material from seeds or cuttings, and I advise wiring while the new growth is still pliable and during the growing season, because the more woody the branch lignifies, the harder it becomes to create meaningful movement with wire and you're more likely to snap the branch trying. This wire will usually only stay on the tree for 4-6 weeks before it will need to be removed as it will bite in deeply if left on for too long. Also, you need to realize that probably 75% or more of the wired branch or trunk will be cut away after the wire is removed. This is how you build movement and taper in both trunks and branches.

I also wire trees in my cold room during the dormant season as well but this is reserved for more developed stock in my cold room where the movement in smaller branches is adjusted. I try to keep these trees above freezing but don't lose sleep if it falls into the upper 20's F in there. This winter, those trees have been sitting in frozen soil for over three weeks , and I'm ok with that. Wiring and bending damages the cambium which can cause dessication and, potentially, the loss of the branch, so I would not have been comfortable wiring trees through the winter if they were outside experiencing the deep cold for months on end. Anyway, starting yesterday, I'm back to trying to keep it as cold as possible in there to forestall the inevitable end of dormancy. Happy growing to everyone... spring is right around the corner!

I started the wiring late May, early June 2025 and removed it again around end of August 2025, so i could remove it before first frosty night.
I can see thats a bit more than 5 weeks

when i first took the wire of it had some ridges from the tree trying to grow around the wire, probably because i put it too tight, but it seems to have healed quiet good