3D printed molds for concrete pots

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Hello all, just wanted to share my journey (so far) into making concrete bonsai pots, using 3D printed molds. I am showing the results of my first two attempts. I have a lot to learn still. These almost ended in disaster, but I was able to save them. So your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

I started of in Fusion360 designing a few bonsai pots. I went with one very simple rectangular pot and one with a little bit more curves and edges.
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After I had some pot designs I liked, I designed a mold around the pot to be later 3D printed. As I designed the molds I went back and adjusted the pot designs to account for draft angles, printer bed size, and how I was going to fill the mold with concrete. The larger pot needed to be broken into more pieces for printing, and it actually made it easier to de-mold in the end. the smaller pot i may go back into the file and break the side into 4 pieces for easier de-molding
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Here are the 3d printed molds after being used, they ended up holding up very well. only one little piece came off of the smaller pot, it was a post to make a hole for a wire tie down.
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I used cheap Quik-crete brand concrete from the hardware store and i sifted out the large aggregate and large sand.

Below are my results of this experiment. These pots almost didn't get this far, but I didn't want to give up on them, and they ended up working out, at least for now.
This first pot, my mix was a little too thick, I left more sand in than with the second pot, and I used less water. When it came out of the mold it fell apart into 5 pieces, I used some epoxy to temporarily hold the pot together, then filled in the crack with more concrete. The base of the pot was very thin, so I used more concrete to build up the inside which is why it looks rough. I did use a random orbital sander to help get bubbles out, but with the concrete being so thick, it didn't work as well as intended. I am planning on doing a little touch up with sand paper on this and possibly a little paint or wash.
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This second pot i added some finely sifted concrete to the mix to remove some of the heavy sand grit, I also added more water to make it easier to poor the mix into the mold. The mold came out better but still cracked into a few pieces, i used some adhesive and more concrete to repair it. I added a brown wash as a little test, but wiped most of it off. I also lightly sanded the sides of the pot.
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Some things I am thinking about:
Using glass fibers or wire to strengthen the pot.
Using a cement specific for molds, or mix my own cement, sand mixture instead of sifting
Modifying the molds to to make de-molding easier the large pot was easy, the small pot because i used two sides instead of four was harder.
I don't have to worry about frost in SoCal, well maybe one night a year, every decade or so.

I am open to suggestions, thoughts, etc. Sorry I don't have pictures in progress, I just have before and end as things got a little messy in the middle and didn't have anyone to help me take photos
 
Really cool...I know very little about 3D printing. I am curious about how much each mold end up costing? Would "chicken wire" help in strengthening the pot (as used in building construction)?
 
In ceramics we can use a chopped up nylon fiber to make sculptures stronger. Concrete pot already seems comparable in strength, if anything i’d try to make the pot in a way to give it some flex (resin?). I think your bigger issue is ph, concrete tends to be pretty alkaline. Will the pot be cured or soaked in anyway to leach that stuff out first?
 
Really cool...I know very little about 3D printing. I am curious about how much each mold end up costing? Would "chicken wire" help in strengthening the pot (as used in building construction)?
Combined the molds used a little less than 1 roll of filament, which on average cost about $20-25 depending on the brand and type of filament. So the larger mold probably cost $12-13 in materials and the smaller one $8-10. However the molds are 100% reusable.

I may get some chicken wire or smaller metal wire. I also may try some glass fibers mixed into the concrete. I have wanted to try some fabric mesh I had for repairing drywall, but it wouldn't stay put as it was too flexible and didn't stay in place the way i have the molds set up.
 
In ceramics we can use a chopped up nylon fiber to make sculptures stronger. Concrete pot already seems comparable in strength, if anything i’d try to make the pot in a way to give it some flex (resin?). I think your bigger issue is ph, concrete tends to be pretty alkaline. Will the pot be cured or soaked in anyway to leach that stuff out first?
I am looking into ways to improve my molds and reinforce the concrete when I mold it. Possibly glass or nylon fibers. I thought about resin, and maybe I'll try some in the future.
I am not planning on using these pots for quite a while. My trees are all too young for bonsai pots yet, so I have plenty of time to neutralize the pH.
 
How much does that pot weigh?

I also don’t know that much about cement strength and lower pH levels. I have heard that lowering pH levels leads to weakening as the calcium carbonate leaches out.

Also concrete has pretty high pH levels like 10-12. That’s a problem for many tree species
 
Great work on the molds. A few years back there was a gentleman who made many beautiful concrete pots. Fast forward to now and almost all those pots broke:( I'm sure there's a mixture where you could get it right. I'm curious, have you checked out Richard Kearney's work? He's on Instagram-richardkearney.nz and is doing some phenomenal work by 3d printing molds and filling them with a viscous clay mixture. His stuff is awesome!
 
Also kudos on the craftsmanship!

As far as the cement, there are mixes readily available with fiberglass already in the mix. Check out the local big box.

Concur with @rockm One can only plant certain plants in Concrete pots due to the alkalinity. If I recall the limestone is the culprit, spwhich will last a long time. That said it’s possible there are sealers which can ameliorate the issue… dunno what that will do to the porosity though.

Do you think one could use those molds for clay? It so, the possibilities increase by a lot.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
I'm excited for you! I've had a desire to do something similar with the 3d modeled and printed molding but never applied any effort. Great results in your process so far! Great project.

I've made around 15 or so concrete pots in the last couple years. None by slip molding like you are, though; not yet, at least. They're all in various states, but mostly fine. Some I applied waterproofing to and others not.

When I was doing my research I came upon this nugget of wisdom. I think there's something to it. Seems logical to me.

Post in thread 'Mokes Cement Rock Pot How To' https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/mokes-cement-rock-pot-how-to.42059/post-716936
 
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Also kudos on the craftsmanship!

As far as the cement, there are mixes readily available with fiberglass already in the mix. Check out the local big box.

Concur with @rockm One can only plant certain plants in Concrete pots due to the alkalinity. If I recall the limestone is the culprit, spwhich will last a long time. That said it’s possible there are sealers which can ameliorate the issue… dunno what that will do to the porosity though.

Do you think one could use those molds for clay? It so, the possibilities increase by a lot.

Cheers
DSD sends
I'm sure you could pour clay into these molds, but I don't have access to a kiln. Yes I know I could find a pottery studio and rent time in one, but That's not going to happen any time soon. Using Resin may be a possibility too, I haven't used resin much other than for SLA printing, and haven't done any casting with resin personally
 
I'm excited for you! I've had a desire to do something similar with the 3d modeled and printed molding but never applied any effort. Great results in your process so far! Great project.

I've made around 15 or so concrete pots in the last couple years. None by slip molding like you are, though; not yet, at least. They're all in various states, but mostly fine. Some I applied waterproofing to and others not.

When I was doing my research I came upon this nugget of wisdom. I think there's something to it. Seems logical to me.

Post in thread 'Mokes Cement Rock Pot How To' https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/mokes-cement-rock-pot-how-to.42059/post-716936
I stumbled across that thread yesterday, I may pick up some of that vinyl cement patcher and give it a try.
 
I am looking into ways to improve my molds and reinforce the concrete when I mold it. Possibly glass or nylon fibers. I thought about resin, and maybe I'll try some in the future.
I am not planning on using these pots for quite a while. My trees are all too young for bonsai pots yet, so I have plenty of time to neutralize the pH.
Regarding the pH... I used to build structures for marine aquariums using cement.... After I built a piece, it would be submerged in fresh water, and I kept changing the water about once a week for 4-6 weeks while monitoring the pH. The piece was deemed ready for use in the aquarium once the water's pH was stable and didn't change.
 
Great experience!

What was the “stable” pH?

A couple thoughts

Sea water is alkaline… with pH of 8.0. Most of our tree require acidic of neutral conditions.

Finally wondering the effect of fertilizers and the hazardous chemicals we sometimes use would have in the long term. Seems Ammonium nitrate, common in some fertilizers, might pull the calcium out of the concrete.

Wondering the long term implications on the heath of the trees…

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Great experience!

What was the “stable” pH?

A couple thoughts

Sea water is alkaline… with pH of 8.0. Most of our tree require acidic of neutral conditions.

Finally wondering the effect of fertilizers and the hazardous chemicals we sometimes use would have in the long term. Seems Ammonium nitrate, common in some fertilizers, might pull the calcium out of the concrete.

Wondering the long term implications on the heath of the trees…

Cheers
DSD sends
I do not remember the exact pH, but our tap water is from the Floridan aquifer which is on the alkaline side (I amend and/or fertilize with this in mind). I tracked it until it was the same as the tap.
 
Thought about this and should’ve asked about the hardness vs pH as water in Florida can be pretty hard.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
You can try a concrete releasing agent or vaseline or something similar to get better release from the molds.
 
Thought about this and should’ve asked about the hardness vs pH as water in Florida can be pretty hard.

Cheers
DSD sends
yeah, we get calcium deposits on everything if we don't have a whole house softener. I would have to test to give you an actual number...it's been a while since I've tested. I bypass the softener though when using outside spigots
 
Portland cement has a pH of 12.5 to 13.5. Almost Double what most plants prefer. That pH level is more alkaline than the great salt lake and almost as alkaline as oven cleaner. Unless you can shield plant roots from it whatever you plant in it for years may have issues.
 
Portland cement has a pH of 12.5 to 13.5. Almost Double what most plants prefer. That pH level is more alkaline than the great salt lake and almost as alkaline as oven cleaner. Unless you can shield plant roots from it whatever you plant in it for years may have issues.
Raw cement is surely incompatible with plant life…Once cured though, as I described above, it will be nowhere near that.

That’s why it is not recommended to plant landscape plants near newly constructed concrete slabs and homes but it’s not an issue older construction. Also why when building raised beds with cement blocks it is preferable to use aged blocks.

Cement pots are pretty common in regular container gardening and even some in bonsai use them. The main drawback is their weight.
 
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