I need elm advice please.

[B-funk allstars]

Hi. I have an American elm that I trunk chopped. The hope was to let it grow wild for at least the year and then set the basic structure. It started out good with a bud low on the trunk and the trunk swelled a lot at the top. I thought more buds were going to break through but nothing. Now the question I have is should I now cut that shoot down to a few leaves? Hoping that since it’s recouped some energy that it will then stimulate the latent buds on the tree. I’d prefer not to have die back all the way down the trunk since resources are only coming from one location far down the trunk. The photo marked in red is where the swelling occurred. What is your advice? Leave it or cut back and why?

 

[BrianBay9]

Oof. That was unlucky. I would just let it grow this year. Worst case you've got what you're going to get, and you'll have to grow from the nebari. Best case, something else will pop.

 

[B-funk allstars]

Ok, thanks for your opinion

 

[rockm]

Unfortunately, the color of the bark of the entire top down to that new shoot indicate to me that everything above the new shoot could be dead. I'd do a scratch test of sections of the upper trunk to see if there is any green cambium.

 

[Tieball]

The tree seems to have established an energy flow only to that new growth. It is unlikely to develop new buds along the rest of the trunk. It may be possible, but unlikely.

I’d just leave that trunk alone. No further chopping right now. Focus on the tree growth and imagine the old trunk section does not exist. As the new growth gets taller this year, and even next year, it will want to fall over…..a long ways over really as the top gets heavier. The trunk section gives you a couple of anchor points to tie the growth to for keeping it more upright. I most frequently use strips of old bicycle inner tubes (cut to about 17” length and about 1/2” width). The inner tubes won’t bite into the new growth trunk and allow enough flex as the new trunk grows. I just tie a simple knot on the opposite side of the trunk. The knot does not need to be tight as the rubber won’t slip apart easily. I leave rubber strip ties on during all seasons spring, summer, autumn and especially winter when the weight of snow has an impact. At the right time, when that new trunk thickens more, then chop the old trunk or hollow it and carve it as an old rotted tree stump.

On some trees I even tie small diameter (1/2” x 3/4”) wood sticks to the trunk to extend anchor points up higher when needed.

 

[B-funk allstars]

Unfortunately, the color of the bark of the entire top down to that new shoot indicate to me that everything above the new shoot could be dead. I'd do a scratch test of sections of the upper trunk to see if there is any green cambium.

That bark is actually the same color as when it was chopped.

 

[rockm]

That bark is actually the same color as when it was chopped.

I'd still check. A single Strong shoot like that at the base of an elm trunk is not a good sign. Should be buds all over the trunk, particularly at the cut site. The lack of any is another indication that the trunk has died...

 

[River's Edge]

I would choose to go with the flow! make the most of the new shoot, Cut back the trunk down to at least half the current height and see what happens. This will enable you to wire or support the new shoot/trunk with interesting movement for a better trunk line if it becomes the tree.
The section remaining from the initial cutback is rather boring and straight with little or no taper. So an opportunity to build a better tree!
If you are concerned about supporting the new trunk and do not wish to wire just place a rod in the pot for temporary support. But my suggestion would be aluminum wire for movement in the trunk and select a nice side shoot to continue the trunk for taper in the long run! Fast growing trees can be developed quickly!
I would also consider carving and healing the base for a very powerful flare to begin the trunk line. The shorter you reduce the original trunk the more movement you can introduce lower down in the new shoots. Just another consideration at this point. Lots of options and opportunities.
Best of luck.

 

[Paradox]

Agree with others above. Elm are usually very strong trees. The fact that there are no buds higher on the trunk is not a good sign

 

[BrightsideB]

I have one exactly like this in the ground. But the shoot is much larger and two years old. I figured I’d dig out next spring and see what I can do with cutting out dead tissue and keeping the live. May be interesting.

If you cut down now to live tissue or the sucker you may be able to get a callus that can heal over. Definitely use sealant.

 

[BrightsideB]

Or wait for buds… but it looks like the tree has reverted energy to the sucker. Same as the one I have. I also have ones that didn’t do that and budded a ton on the main trunk.

 

[Tieball]

I would determine early on what direction you want for your American Elm. There is the look of the bent and rugged-environment Elm. There is the look of the traditional Elm that is upright and forks into a vase like appearance. While your initial tree begins growth study American Elm trees in nature and from photos. Decide what kind of image you want to portray. It’s a choice of direction you take. Then after choosing a direction you’ll begin to build growth and thickness and prune as needed to grow towards the image you have in mind.

 

[B-funk allstars]

Thanks everyone for your opinions.

 

[B-funk allstars]

I would determine early on what direction you want for your American Elm. There is the look of the bent and rugged-environment Elm. There is the look of the traditional Elm that is upright and forks into a vase like appearance. While your initial tree begins growth study American Elm trees in nature and from photos. Decide what kind of image you want to portray. It’s a choice of direction you take. Then after choosing a direction you’ll begin to build growth and thickness and prune as needed to grow towards the image you have in mind.

I guess the direction I was going to go was with what the tree gave me. Apparently it’s giving me lemons. So I need to grab some sugar and make some lemonade. On the plus side it didn’t die from the initial chop and root prune. So I guess I’ll take that as a win.

 

[Tieball]

I grow a lot of American Elms. I regret taking the path of a bent contorted form on a lot of them. Over time I’ve started to really appreciate the beauty of the vase shaped Elm. The bent and slanted trees, well, they look just like bonsai’d trees rather than nature's best American Elm. It’s a personal choice.

Your tree wants to survive. It will still be mighty fine!

 

[B-funk allstars]

I grow a lot of American Elms. I regret taking the path of a bent contorted form on a lot of them. Over time I’ve started to really appreciate the beauty of the vase shaped Elm. The bent and slanted trees, well, they look just like bonsai’d trees rather than nature's best American Elm. It’s a personal choice.

Your tree wants to survive. It will still be mighty fine!

Thanks, I just have memories of huge elm boulevard trees as a kid in Milwaukee before they were all infected. I agree that I liked a more elm type shape.

 

[Tieball]

I have American Elms growing well…..the full size trees.